Mt. Wrangell and Mt. Jarvis Wrangell - St. Elias NP, Alaska
Gear List

Mt. Wrangell and Mt. Jarvis Expedition Gear List

This equipment list is meant to help you compile your personal gear for a mountaineering expedition. Most items are required. Please consider each item carefully and be sure you understand the function of each piece of equipment before you substitute or delete items. Keep in mind that this list has been carefully compiled by the expedition organizer. Don't cut corners on the quality of your gear.

[  ]Boots: Plastic/synthetic double boots only. La Sportiva Spantik; La Sportiva Baruntse; Scarpa Phantom 6,000 or 8,000; Scarpa Inverno; or similar.
[  ]Overboots: 40 Below Purple Haze are recommended to ensure warm feet for April and early May climbs. An expedition weight Supergaiter is acceptable. A good snug fit is extremely important for either choice. If using overboots, bring a regular gaiter for the approach. If your double boots are new with expedition liners, you can normally do without overboots for May and June climbs if you have normal circulation. Some high altitude boots now come with built in gaiters which is also acceptable alone.
[  ]Socks: Three complete changes of heavy wool/synthetic socks with optional liners.
[  ]Underwear: One lightweight and one medium weight synthetic top, one lightweight longjohn bottom and one expedition weight bottom.
[  ]Soft Shell jacket and climbing pant.
[  ]Storm shell Waterproof/breathable jacket and pants (Gore-Tex). Jacket should have a close-fitting, attached hood. Pants must have ¾ or full-length zippers.
[  ]Down parka: Expedition weight parka with attached hood. Size large enough to wear over all other layers.
[  ]Insulated over pant. Examples include Outdoor Research Neoplume or Mountain Hardwear Compressor pant.
[  ]Hat: fleece or wool hat with separate neck gaiter or balaclava. Size to fit under helmet
[  ]Face protection: For sun and wind. Buff or lightweight balaclava
[  ]Sun hat: Baseball or wide brimmed hat. Size to fit under helmet.
[  ]Gloves: Two pair, one medium weight and one very warm insulated Gore-Tex ski or climbing glove.
[  ]Mitts: Heavy insulated mitts.
[  ]Glacier glasses: Dark with good side shields or wrap around design.
[  ]Ski goggles: Double lens to reduce fogging.
[  ]Water bottles: Two wide mouth plastic bottles with insulating covers (like the Outdoor Research Water Bottle Parka).
[  ]Sun cream/Lip balm: SPF 30 or higher.
[  ]Sleeping bag: Rated to -20°F or lower. Best and lightest is a Gore-Tex covered down bag. A synthetic bag is heavy and bulky. A good compression stuff sack is highly recommended.
[  ]Pads: 1 closed cell foam pad and 1 Thermarest pad.
[  ]Pack: Large (80+ liters) expedition size internal frame.
[  ]Bowl, cup & spoon: Large (12 oz. or more) insulated plastic cup, large flexible plastic bowl and Lexan plastic spoon.
[  ]Pocket knife and butane lighter
[  ]Alpine climbing harness: Adjustable leg loops are best, should have at least two gear loops
[  ]Carabiners: Two pear shaped locking, and four regular, minimum.
[  ]Perlon accessory cord: bring 24 feet for construction of prussik loops. Optional: bring one mechanical ascender in addition to the cord.
[  ]Crampons: 12 point hinged flat frame crampons. Make sure they stay on over your overboots. Crampons with plastic toe and heel retaining pieces do best.
[  ]Ice axe: 70 cm. with leash.
[  ]Ski poles***: Collapsible poles with large ski baskets
[  ]Snowshoes***: Lightweight with traction bindings. MSR makes good snowshoes.
[  ]Avalanche transceiver***: Recommended for some, but not all trips.
[  ]First Aid kit: Each individual must carry a small personal first aid kit to avoid depletion of the group kit. You should have the following: aspirin (or Tylenol); ibuprofen; antacid (Pepto Bismol, Rolaids); anti- diarrhea medication (Imodium); Band-Aids; athletic tape; Second Skin or Band-Aid Blister Cushions. Consult with your doctor and bring any recommended prescriptions necessary for your health. Consider bringing a prescription of acetazolamide (Diamox) 125 or 250 mg. tablets for climbs over 14,000 feet (to be used only in emergency). Also bring a broad spectrum antibiotic like azithromycin ("Z-Pak"). Earplugs are useful for sleeping.
[  ]Lunch food: Bulk lunch items will be provided (Pilot bread, block cheese, pb&j, sardines, etc.). Bring your own energy bars, gorp, candy, special cheeses, sausage, jerky, drink mix, etc. About 10 lbs. total for two weeks is normal. This will be used as climbing snacks during the day and at night in the tent.
[  ]Sled rigging: If we use sleds to move camp (likely), bring 20' of 1" flat webbing (for towing the sled) and another 20' of ¼ inch cord (for lashing down your duffel on the sled.
[  ]Lockable duffel: To store street clothes, towel, toiletries, and items to be left with bush pilot.
[  ]Large duffel: for carrying group gear on your sled. A large, lightweight model is best, like the REI Classic XL duffel.
[  ]Toiletries: Toothbrush and small tube of paste. One roll of t.p. in a Ziploc bag. Bring your own towel and soap for use at the bush pilot's lodge if we overnight there.
[  ]Optional items: Collapsible shovel (aluminum is preferred over plastic), compact digital camera, Kindle or small journal and pen, thick paperback (easy to cut in half to share or trade). A headlamp is usually not necessary in Alaska by mid-May, but might be useful for reading or emergencies in the middle of the night. A small LED headlamp works great for this purpose. If you bring a lot of digital gear, consider bringing a small, portable solar charger.

*** available for rent