June 19, 2026

Today is the day! With both teams having made a successful move to 17K Camp yesterday, they chose to push to the summit this morning and we should hear this evening about the success of their attempt. The weather is looking great and the both teams have been in good spirits so far! Team 6’s lead guide, Peter Dale, was able to send some great photos this morning, and we’re excited to be able to share with you!

IMGD guide, Grace Coady, stands at 17K Camp with Mount Foraker in the background (Peter Dale)

Team 6 climbing the West Buttress. (Peter Dale)

June 18, 2026

And they’re off! Both teams are headed to 17K Camp today, and likely stepped out of 14K Camp about 10:30 AM. One of the quirks of the Alaska climbing season is the shift in daylight hours from early May to late June. By this point in the season, the cold temperatures on the upper mountain mean later starts to their days, as they wait for full sun to hit the glacier before they can begin climbing.

Once they reach High Camp, they’ll be on the lookout for the best chance at the summit, and things are looking pretty open! Both teams are strong and well acclimated, so the goal is to get to the top as soon as they can, and start the journey back to the airstrip.

The view of 14K Camp from 17K Camp (Matt Strother)

June 17, 2026

These last two teams are really cruising up the mountain! Teams 5 and 6 are moving together now, and both taking a rest day after caching at 17K Camp. They expect to take their next step tomorrow, which will put them up at 17K Camp, and in position to attempt the summit as soon as the time is right. The clouds are sitting at 11K right now, and are predicted to stay there for the next few days, so things are looking clear and gorgeous on the upper mountain!

The view up the fixed lines above 14K Camp. This photo is from earlier this season with IMGD Team 2. (Tyler Nachand)

June 16, 2026

We’re back with more updates from Alaska, and things are moving fast!

Team 5 rested yesterday, and took the opportunity to do some technical practice. Making sure that all members of the team are familiar with the safety techniques of glacier travel is essential before moving onto the upper mountain, which is today’s task. They’ll take today to carry to 17K Camp, and then likely take another rest day tomorrow at 14K before moving up to their next stop.

Team 6 moved up to 14K Camp yesterday and are also caching today. They’re making good progress, and are now on the same timeline as Team 5. The two teams have been enjoying the company and support that comes with climbing on such a similar timeline, and will now be even more available for each other than before!

14K Camp looks out over the Sultana Ridge of Mount Foraker, one of the other major peaks of the Alaska Range. (David Carlson)

June 12, 2026

Last night was a busy one for 11K Camp! All three remaining IMG Denali teams met—Team 4 on their descent, and Teams 5 and 6 on their ascent— and had time to check in, connect, and give updates on the mountain.

Team 4 is now back in Talkeetna and en-route to Anchorage. After a slow start with rough weather the first couple days of their trip, their time on the mountain has been efficient! However, any expedition on the High One is a long and exhausting journey, and we know they’re looking forward to getting a good nights sleep in a real bed!

Team 5 is carrying to 13K today, after a rest day yesterday at 11K. They’ll sleep at 11K Camp again tonight, and then plan to move to 14K Camp tomorrow.

Team 6 is carrying to 13K tomorrow, and taking a well served rest day to day. Team 6 is small but strong, and we’re looking forward to catching up with them again tomorrow!

Members of Teams 4, 5, and 6 take a photo break together at 11K Camp! (Peter Dale)

June 10, 2026

Things are looking good for our teams in Alaska so far. We’re back today with news that Team 4, led by Max Bond, is heading for the summit! They’re headed back down to 17K Camp after their time on the top, and should be heading back to the airstrip tomorrow.

Team 5 is moving to 11K today, after a successful caching trip yesterday. Due to a weather-induced rest day yesterday, they are now only one day off of Team 6, who is caching at 11K today, and will move up to camp tomorrow. This gives both teams the opportunity to climb with additional support and manage some aspects of the climb logistics together, which is a huge benefit for both parties.

A Team 2 climber stands on the West Buttress, right below the summit. 14K Camp is visible far below in the distance. (Kevin Alexander)

June 9, 2026

IMG Denali Team 6 looking ready to rock!

It’s official: all IMG Denali teams have made it onto the mountain! With three teams down and three to go, it’s a busy time of year.

After a few days of tough weather, Team 4 is moving to 17K Camp today and hoping to make the summit push tomorrow. We can’t wait to hear more news from the top!

Team 5 is taking their first caching trip today, with the biggest load of the climb. They’ll deposit the load at 10,000 feet and plan to move to 11K Camp tomorrow.

Team 6, led by Peter Dale, flew onto the Kahiltna Glacier this morning. They’ll head for Ski Hill Camp today, and then start the long ascent to the summit. Good luck to our remaining teams!

June 8, 2026

We’re officially past the halfway point!

With our Team 3 back in Talkeetna, folks are headed home now, and looking back on the once-in-a-lifetime experience that is any climb on the High One. Only three teams to go before the season’s done!

Team 4, led by Max Bond, is resting at 14K Camp and waiting for their chance at 17K Camp. They’ve cached and prepped, so they’re ready to go at a moment’s notice.

Team 5, led by Alex Lombardo, is headed to Ski Hill Camp. The team seems strong, and we have high hopes for their journey on the mountain!

After arriving in Talkeetna yesterday, Team 6, our least team of the season, led by Peter Dale, is ready to roll as soon as the weather permits. They’re waiting for the chance to fly on, and we hope to see them on the glacier this afternoon.

We look forward to posting more progress in the coming days, so keep an eye on the blog!

Team 5 headed to their rooms at the Anchorage Embassy Suits Hotel with their gear for the next several weeks! (James Nash)