Everest South Side Summit Climb with International Mountain Guides

IMG's Everest programs are recognized worldwide as simply outstanding, with a reputation for our highly professional staff of leaders, climbers and Sherpas, first-rate logistics and our resulting safety and success record on the mountain. Since 1990, 450 IMG team members have summited the world's classic 8,000-meter peaks, including 209 on Everest.

Note from Eric Simonson

Thanks for the interest in our 2011 Everest programs!

I've been organizing Everest expeditions for over 25 years and each year I do my best to put together a strong team with compatible climbers and top notch western and sherpa guides and leaders. We fill our trips, and thus can be picky; we've turned away many climbers over the years who I feel will not be a good fit with our program.

IMG has long been the leader in innovative climbing programs to the Himalayas. We were one of the very first companies to offer guided programs to Everest (1991), the first to company to offer a standalone climb to the North Col (1994) and to 8000m (2001). We were one of the first companies to guide Shishapangma (1990) and Cho Oyu (1995), first to guide Khumbu Icefall as a standalone program (2000), first to offer the option of personal sherpa guides to climbers (2002), first successfully guided climb of Lhotse (2009), first with the Hybrid concept (2010), first to offer an Everest "Express" itinerary (2010).

With 450 summits of 8000 meter peaks to our IMG credit, including over 250 of them on Mount Everest, I am still never satisfied, and continue to look for ways to improve our IMG Everest program. For 2011 we continue our tradition of innovation and attention to the details. We put in place first class logistics and staffing. We don't cut corners. We conduct the best program that we can, at a fair price. I don't think you will be disappointed.

If you would like to join a world-class team on Everest, please give the Everest 2011 PDF document a careful reading and then contact us if you would like further information!

As an incentive, we are offering a $1500 early-decision discount for Everest climbs, and $1000 for Lhotse and C2/C3, for completed 2011 applications received before August 1, 2010.

Please let me know how I can be of further assistance.

—Eric Simonson
IMG Himalayan Programs Director

Note on 2011 Dates

Dates are listed starting with the arrival day to Kathmandu to the arrival day back to Kathmandu from Lukla at the end of the trip.

The ending dates for the EBC Classic Trek, Sherpa Trek, and Lobuche Climb are FIXED, but you should add one contingency day in Kathmandu at the end, before flying home, in case of Lukla flight delay.

The ending dates for the Everest and Lhotse Climbs are FLEXIBLE, depending on weather and conditions. It would be normal to add a week of contingency days to these itineraries. Normally climbers will change their departure flights (call or e mail you travel agent from BC) when you know exactly when the expedition is going to end for you. We plan to stay at Base Camp for climbing until approximately the end of May, or as long as it takes for us to be successful.

Classic Everest Summit Climb

March 29 - May 24, 2011

This is the program that most of our IMG climbers have done over the years, perfect for the climber with previous experience climbing big mountains. This is a complete expedition, no cutting corners, nothing less than the finest support on the mountain and offering you the ultimate in flexibility to tailor your schedule to your personal needs. Included is unlimited consultation with the IMG staff, consultation with the docs at the HRA BC Medical clinic, Icefall fees, all expedition food, communications, oxygen, Sherpa support, complete trek service, and total expedition logistics from Kathmandu to Kathmandu. We assign your personal guide (sherpa guide at 1:1 ratio and western guide at 2:1 ratio) to you at the beginning of the expedition and you climb together over the acclimatization rotations, developing familiarity and friendship. IMG does not allow members to climb solo. Our itinerary includes Lobuche Peak at the beginning of the expedition, then two rotations up the Icefall, prior to summit bids, for maximum practice and acclimatization.

Hybrid Everest Climb

March 28 - May 23, 2011

Many of our customers have told us they want the oversight of a western guide (4:1 ratio) plus the individual attention provided by a personal Sherpa (1:1 ratio). Now we have what you are looking for! Join seasoned Everest guides and our top sherpas for an attractively priced program that combines the best of both worlds. The general itinerary is the same as the Classic Everest climb, but the Hybrid group will travel separately to Base Camp and will have a separate BC dining tent.

Express Everest Summit Climb

April 5 - May 21, 2011

In this climb, we provide the option of a shorter itinerary and a different acclimatization profile. To accomplish this we do Lobuche Peak at the beginning of the trip (like the Classic climb) for acclimatization, and then follow this with a single extended acclimatization rotation to Camp 2 and Camp 3 (overnight at C3). This means that you only do one Icefall rotation prior to the summit bids. This is a more aggressive schedule, suited to strong climbers who have demonstrated the ability to acclimatize well on past climbs and/or who can do some pre acclimatization before the expedition (e.g., additional trekking and climbing to altitude or using a hypobaric chamber). During the Lobuche and C2/C3 rotations you will be climbing with IMG guides and Sherpas and also members of the C2/C3 and Lhotse teams. IMG does not allow members to climb solo. You will have a personal Sherpa guide assigned to you for the summit bids.

Lhotse Climb

April 5 - May 21, 2011

The Lhotse route follows the Everest route to above the Yellow Band, then splits off to "Lhotse Camp 4". Lhotse is a stiff climb, more difficult than Cho Oyu. Our Sherpa team will fix the route all the way to the summit, but there is near vertical ice and rock in the Lhotse couloir so you need to be very fit and capable. We figure you will use oxygen starting at C3 on the second rotation, then from C3 to Lhotse C4, overnight there, and on summit day. The goal would be to descend to C2 after the summit. During the acclimatization rotations on this climb you are with other members of the Lhotse team, Everest Express climbers, C2/C3 climbers, and IMG guides and Sherpas. IMG does not allow members to climb solo. For summit bids we will assign specific Sherpas and guides. Lots of steep climbing!

Classic Nepal Everest Base Camp Trek

March 29 - April 17, 2011

This is one of the world’s great treks. Accompany the IMG climbing team and see all the famous sights on the way up the Khumbu Valley. Climb Kala Pattar, rub shoulders with the climbers and see what a real expedition is like. Join in with the expedition puja ceremony at Base Camp, marking the beginning of the climbing. Then, trek back out to Lukla with our crack Sherpa team for the flight to Kathmandu. What a classic! We have a limited number of positions available for this program.

Sherpa Everest Base Camp Trek

May 2-19, 2011

Our Sherpa led Everest trek, with top notch support and logistics, this group also visits the team at Base Camp, near the end of the expedition, normally about the time of the summit bids. This is an exciting time to be there! After the Base Camp visit, trek back out to Lukla with our crack Sherpa team for the flight to Kathmandu.

Nepal BC Trek with Lobuche Peak Summit Climb

April 5 - April 28, 2011

If you would like to visit Everest Base Camp, and stay longer and go higher, bring your crampons and ice axe and add a climb of Lobuche Peak, over 20,000 feet. We first go to Everest Base Camp for better acclimatization, then our Lobuche climbers, guides, and Sherpas will drop one day back down the valley to climb this beautiful peak, with world class views of Everest from the summit. Afterward, trek back out to Lukla with our crack Sherpa team for the flight to Kathmandu. From the beautiful Lobuche Base Camp tucked up a side valley from the EBC trek route, the route climbs to a high camp, then from there up rock scrambling to the glacier, which leads to the summit ridge. The steeper parts of the climb to the ridge, on the summit day, are normally fixed with about 500 meters of rope. Lobuche Peak is a perfect objective if you are fit and have Mt. Rainier type skills. (ice axe, crampons, roped glacier travel). We will review use of fixed ropes for climbers who have not done this before.

Khumbu Icefall Climb with Camp2, Camp 3 and Yellow Band Options

April 5 - May 5, 2011 (to Camp 2)
April 5 - May 8, 2011 (to Camp 3)

Go to Lobuche Peak for a warm-up, then climb the famous Khumbu Icefall. If you’re a climber who always wanted to see for yourself what Everest is all about, our Khumbu Icefall program provides the chance to go up to Camp 1 and Camp 2. This is serious climbing, with some risk, so you need to be in good shape and have solid skills with crampons, fixed rope, etc. Visit Camp 2 and descend to Base Camp or, stay longer and practice using oxygen to go to Camp 3 (or higher up the Lhotse Face towards the Yellow Band, depending on your strength). This is a great practice for climbing Everest!

Expedition Organization and Leadership

International Mountain Guides ("IMG")
IMG is the oldest and most respected high-altitude climbing service in the world and its three principals, Eric Simonson, Phil Ershler, and George Dunn, have led and organized hundreds of expeditions worldwide since 1975. Each is an AMGA Certified Alpine Guide with Himalayan expedition experience including Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, Shishapangma, and Cho Oyu. IMG's Himalayan mountaineering programs are organized and directed by Eric Simonson, one of the world's premiere expedition organizers. Under his direction IMG has conducted over forty Himalayan expeditions. His teams include a group of professionals and Sherpas who are the best in the business. Since 1990, 450 IMG team members have summited the world's classic 8,000-meter peaks, including Everest, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma.

IMG's Philosophy
Our goal is to safely help as many team members as possible reach their goal, and we invest in the people and equipment that will make this happen. We value our reputation as the premiere international climbing company, and we only put programs in place that measure up to our own high standards. If you would like to join a world-class team, we encourage you to contact us to discuss your goals and qualifications and secure an exciting role for yourself on our expedition!

Ang Jangbu and the IMG Sherpa Team
A veteran of dozens of expeditions and an Everest summiter, Ang Jangbu has worked with Eric Simonson on every IMG Himalayan program since 1991 and is a very popular leader. Ang Jangbu Sherpa and his staff put together one of the very best Sherpa teams for IMG. We are proud to have a group of Sherpas working for us who are among the best paid, best led, best equipped, and best trained in the business.

IMG Everest 2010 staff
We are happy to announce that for IMG's Everest 2010 we have now slated IMG guides Phil Ershler, Mike Hamill, and Greg Vernovage to be climbing with our team.

References

Joining a high-altitude trek or expedition is a serious decision. You should be completely confident in the organization and leadership before you make that decision. Many of you have climbed with us before, and because your experience with us was good, you're considering another climb with us. For those of you who haven't climbed with us before, we strongly encourage you to interview us thoroughly and also talk to our past clients. When you're ready to make the decision, we'll be happy to provide you with a complete list of references. Please also browse comments online from our trekkers and climbers.