Everest South Side Summit Climb with International Mountain Guides

IMG's Everest programs are recognized worldwide as simply outstanding, with a reputation for our highly professional staff of leaders, climbers and Sherpas, first-rate logistics and our resulting safety and success record on the mountain. Since 1990, nearly 400 IMG team members have summited the world's classic 8,000-meter peaks, including 209 on Everest.

Note from Eric Simonson

Thanks for the interest in our Everest programs!

I spent the 2009 Everest expedition at Base Camp, and I was constantly reminded of what a difference it makes over there having such a great team. From the IMG leaders Ang Jangbu and Mark Tucker, to sirdar Ang Pasang and the Sherpas, to the cooks, to everyone involved in the program — they do such a great job and are continually the leaders on the mountain. This year it was great to work with the Discovery Channel film crew, and I am looking forward to seeing their show in the autumn.

For 2009 we put another 30 climbers on the summit, bringing our total summits on Everest to 209 (and nearly 400 including Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, and this year for the first time, Lhotse). It is really a credit to our consistently fine logistics and staff. If you are a climber, and want the best support, at a fair price, we have it for you!

For 2010 we offer a variety of programs:

• Classic Everest Climb with a western guide. The is the Cadillac Everest climb, top notch in all respects
• Classic Everest Climb with a Sherpa guide. This is the program that the majority of our climbers do. Lots of flexibility, first class support.
• Everest Express Climb. New for 2010, slightly shorter and less expensive than the Classic Everest, with a creative itinerary suited to strong climbers who can do some pre-acclimatization.
• Classic Everest Base Camp Trek. One of the finest treks in the world, ours comes in with the summit climbers, and spends several nights at Base Camp.
• Sherpa Everest Base Camp Trek. This group comes in at the end of the expedition, spends several nights at Base Camp.
• Lhotse Climb. If you are a climber and want to bag an 8000'er that is more difficult than Cho Oyu, this is the climb for you.
• Lobuche Climb. This attractive 20,000' peak near Base Camp is available as a stand alone option for our trekkers. Our climbers will do Lobuche for pre-acclimatization, prior to hitting the Icefall for the first time.

If you would like to join a world-class team on Everest, please contact us for more information!

—Eric Simonson
IMG Himalayan Programs Director

Note on Dates

Dates are listed starting with the arrival day to Kathmandu to the arrival day back to Kathmandu at the end of the trip. The ending dates for the EBC Classic Trek, Sherpa Trek, and Lobuche Climb are FIXED. The ending dates for the Everest and Lhotse Climbs are flexible, depending on weather and conditions. It would be normal to add several contingency days to these itineraries. Normally climbers will change their departure flights from Kathmandu when they know exactly when the expedition is going to end. We plan to stay at Base Camp for climbing until approximately the end of May, or as long as it takes for us to be successful.

Classic Everest Summit Climb — Guided and Non-guided

March 30 - May 25, 2010 (57 days)

This is the program that most of our IMG climbers have done over the years, perfect for the climber with previous experience climbing big mountains. This is a complete expedition, no cutting corners, nothing less than the finest support on the mountain and offering you the ultimate in flexibility to tailor your schedule to your personal needs. Included is unlimited consultation with the IMG staff, consultation with the docs at the BC Medical clinic, Icefall fees, all expedition food, communications, oxygen, Sherpa support, complete trek service, and total expedition logistics from Kathmandu to Kathmandu. We assign your personal guide to you at the beginning of the expedition and you climb together over the acclimatization rotations, developing familiarity and friendship. IMG does not allow members to climb solo. Our itinerary includes Lobuche Peak at the beginning of the expedition, for better acclimatization. We then schedule two rotations up the Icefall, prior to summit bids, for maximum practice and acclimatization.

Express Everest Summit Climb — Guided and Non-guided

April 6 - May 22, 2010 (47 days)

New for 2010, we have provided the option of a shorter itinerary and a different acclimatization profile. To accomplish this we do Lobuche Peak at the beginning of the trip (like the Classic climb) for acclimatization, and then follow this with a single extended acclimatization rotation to Camp 2 and Camp 3 (overnight at C3). This means that you only do one Icefall rotation prior to the summit bids. This is a more aggressive schedule, suited to strong climbers who have demonstrated the ability to acclimatize well on past climbs and/or who can do some pre acclimatization before the expedition (e.g., additional trekking and climbing to altitude or using a hypobaric chamber). During the Lobuche and C2/C3 rotations you will be climbing with IMG guides and Sherpas and also members of the C2/C3 and Lhotse teams. IMG does not allow members to climb solo. You will have a personal Sherpa guide assigned to you for the summit bids.

Lhotse Climb

April 6 - May 22, 2010 (47 days)

The Lhotse route follows the Everest route to above the Yellow Band, then splits off to "Lhotse Camp 4". Lhotse is a stiff climb, more difficult than Cho Oyu. Our Sherpa team will fix the route all the way to the summit, but there is near vertical ice and rock in the Lhotse couloir so you need to be very fit and capable. We figure you will use oxygen starting at C3 on the second rotation, then from C3 to Lhotse C4, overnight there, and on summit day. The goal would be to descend to C2 after the summit. During the acclimatization rotations on this climb you are with other members of the Lhotse team, Everest Express climbers, C2/C3 climbers, and IMG guides and Sherpas. IMG does not allow members to climb solo. For summit bids we will assign specific Sherpas and guides. Lots of steep climbing!

Nepal Base Camp Treks

Spring Nepal Treks »
Autumn Nepal Treks »

The trek to Everest Base Camp is simply classic, and we have two options for spring 2010. The March 30 group accompanies the climbers on the trek to BC. The May 3–21 trek to Everest Base Camp will be led by Phu Tashi Sherpa from Pangboche, one of our top trek leaders. Phu Tashi has led treks for IMG for many years and when you go to Pangboche you can visit his home! This trek group will arrive at Base Camp just in time for the summit bids, a very exciting time to be at Base Camp. You will stay in comfortable lodges on the way to Base Camp and will be guests of the expedition team for three nights at Base Camp. Then, trek back out to Lukla with our crack Sherpa team for the flight to Kathmandu. This is a top quality trip in all respects.

Nepal BC Trek with Lobuche Peak Summit Climb

April 6 - April 29, 2010 (24 days)

If you would like to visit Everest Base Camp, and stay longer and go higher, bring your crampons and ice axe and add a climb of Lobuche Peak, over 20,000 feet. We first go to Everest Base Camp for better acclimatization, then our Lobuche climbers, guides, and Sherpas will drop one day back down the valley to climb this beautiful peak, with world class views of Everest from the summit. Afterward, trek back out to Lukla with our crack Sherpa team for the flight to Kathmandu. IMG has guided this climb many times and it is a favorite of ours! From the beautiful Lobuche Base Camp tucked up a side valley from the EBC trek route, the route climbs to a high camp, then from there up rock scrambling to the glacier, which leads to the summit ridge. The steeper parts of the climb to the ridge, on the summit day, are normally fixed with about 500 meters of rope. Lobuche Peak is a perfect objective if you are fit and have Mt. Rainier type skills. (ice axe, crampons, roped glacier travel). We will review use of fixed ropes for climbers who have not done this before.

Khumbu Icefall Climb with Camp2, Camp 3 and Yellow Band Options

April 6 - May 6, 2010 (31 days, to Camp 2)
April 6 - May 9, 2010 (34 days, to Camp 3)

Go to Lobuche Peak for a warm-up, then climb the famous Khumbu Icefall. If you're a climber who always wanted to see for yourself what Everest is all about, our Khumbu Icefall program provides the chance to go up to Camp 1 and Camp 2. This is serious climbing, with some risk, so you need to be in good shape and have solid skills with crampons, fixed rope, etc. Visit Camp 2 and descend to Base Camp or, stay longer and practice using oxygen to go to Camp 3 (or higher up the Lhotse Face towards the Yellow Band, depending on your strength). This is a great practice for climbing Everest!

Our Philosophy

IMG leads the way! Virtually every year we are one of the first teams to the summit. Our goal is to safely help as many team members as possible reach their goals, and we invest in the logistics that will make this happen. We value our reputation as the premiere international climbing company and we only put programs in place that measure up to our own high standards. If you would like to join a world-class team on Everest, we encourage you to contact us to discuss your goals and qualifications and secure an exciting role for yourself on our team!

Expedition Organization and Leadership

International Mountain Guides ("IMG")
IMG is the oldest and most respected high-altitude climbing service in the world and its three principals, Eric Simonson, Phil Ershler, and George Dunn, have led and organized hundreds of expeditions worldwide since 1975. Each is an AMGA Certified Alpine Guide with Himalayan expedition experience including Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, Shishapangma, and Cho Oyu. IMG's Himalayan mountaineering programs are organized and directed by Eric Simonson, one of the world's premiere expedition organizers. Under his direction IMG has conducted over forty Himalayan expeditions. His teams include a group of professionals and Sherpas who are the best in the business. Since 1990, nearly 400 IMG team members have summited the world's classic 8,000-meter peaks, including Everest, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma.

Mark Tucker
Mark's resume includes nine expeditions to Mt. Everest including both Nepal and Tibet, summitting via the North Ridge on the 1990 Peace Climb. A senior Rainier guide during the summer, Mark is one of IMG's most popular trip leaders, with dozens and dozens of international expeditions under his belt. Mark co-led successful Everest expeditions in '01, '02, '04, '05, '06, '07, '08 and '09. Well known as the "mayor of Base Camp", Tucker works hard to make sure all the pieces of the puzzle fit together. Under his leadership, dozens of western climbers have reached the summit. For 2010 he returns to lead our next successful Everest expedition!

Ang Jangbu and the IMG Sherpa Team
A veteran of dozens of expeditions and an Everest summiter, Ang Jangbu has worked with Eric Simonson on every IMG Himalayan program since 1991 and is a very popular leader. Ang Jangbu Sherpa and his staff put together one of the very best Sherpa teams for IMG. We are proud to have a group of Sherpas working for us who are among the best paid, best led, best equipped, and best trained in the business.

References

Joining a high-altitude trek or expedition is a serious decision. You should be completely confident in the organization and leadership before you make that decision. Many of you have climbed with us before, and because your experience with us was good, you're considering another climb with us. For those of you who haven't climbed with us before, we strongly encourage you to interview us thoroughly and also talk to our past clients. When you're ready to make the decision, we'll be happy to provide you with a complete list of references. Please also browse comments online from our trekkers and climbers.