Ama Dablam Climb with International Mountain Guides
Thanks for your interest in our 2018 Ama Dablam Expedition. This is one of the most famous and beautiful peaks in the world, rising above the Dudh Kosi River valley on the way to Everest Base Camp in Nepal. We've now conducted nine successful guided Ama Dablam expeditions and two more successful teams that we supported with logistics and Sherpas. This includes our most recent 2017 team, which put 10 climbers on the top between the Classic and Hybrid teams.
Our 2018 Ama Dablam expedition will utilize this same model, which has worked so well for IMG over the years on Mt. Everest. This means that we will have a Classic (sherpa guided) and a Hybrid (western guide) team. The Classic program is suitable for experienced climbers who don't require the extra guidance of the Hybrid program.
We plan a leisurely trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp, with plenty of time to focus on acclimating and familiarization with the terrain and technical challenges on the climb. We have added more contingency days in the itinerary, and crafted a slower and more deliberate schedule for the ascent with more rest and acclimatization days. This will also allow more flexibility. For example, some climbers may decide to go to the summit from Camp 2, while others might opt to spend a night in the higher Camp 2.7 or 2.8. We want to give everyone the best chance to reach the top, and we know everyone climbs at a different rate.
Please contact us if you have further questions or would like to discuss different options. We can put together a package for you that will meet your requirements. We look forward to hearing from you. Eric Simonson and Greg Vernovage
IMG Himalayan Programs
How hard is Ama Dablam?
How hard is Ama Dablam? You need to have solid rock-climbing and cramponing skills and be able to climb and rappel with a pack on. You'll be jumaring on fixed ropes. There are several short, steep sections of near vertical ice and rock on the spectacular ridge between Camp 1 and Camp 3 that require strength and technique. Up high on Ama Dablam climbers need to be ready for very cold temperatures and wind, so proper equipment is critical. Most importantly, you need good common sense and the ability to learn and adapt. Ama Dablam is usually climbed un-roped, using fixed ropes, so it is common for climbers to move together but at the same time be semi-independent on the mountain between camps. We will provide a walkie-talkie to each climber/sherpa team so they can stay in contact. The IMG staff will be available for consultation in all aspects of the expedition.
The best general practice for you is probably to go out and do some longer Grade III or IV rock climbs, preferably ridge climbs with a range of difficulty from short roping/short pitching up to moderate 5th class climbing. If you want to come out to the Northwest and train with IMG guides, we can schedule a climb for you with one of our Ama Dablam veteran guides in the North Cascades over terrain similar to what you would expect on Ama Dablam.
Expedition Organization and Leadership
International Mountain Guides (IMG)
IMG is the oldest and most respected high-altitude climbing service in the world and its three principals, Eric Simonson, Phil Ershler, and George Dunn, have led and organized hundreds of expeditions worldwide since 1975. Each is an AMGA Certified Alpine Guide with Himalayan expedition experience including Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, Shishapangma, and Cho Oyu. IMG's Himalayan mountaineering programs are organized and directed by Eric Simonson and Greg Vernovage. Under their direction IMG has conducted over 60 Himalayan expeditions with a group of guides and Sherpas who are the best in the business. Since 1990, over 600 IMG team members have summited the world's classic 8,000-meter peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma.
IMG leads the way! Our goal is to minimize risk while helping as many members as possible reach their goal, and we invest in the logistics and manpower to make this possible. We will not sit back and let other teams do the work. Invariably, our IMG Sherpas are part of the rope fixing efforts and the first team to the summit, preparing the route for future summit bids. We value our reputation as one of the premiere international climbing companies. If you would like to join a world-class team on Everest, we encourage you to contact us to discuss your goals and qualifications for membership in the IMG Everest team!
Ang Jangbu and the IMG Sherpa Team
A veteran of dozens of expeditions and an Everest summiter, Ang Jangbu has worked with Eric Simonson on every IMG Himalayan program since 1991 and is a very popular leader. Ang Jangbu Sherpa and his staff put together one of the very best Sherpa teams for IMG. We are proud to have a group of Sherpas working for us who are among the best paid, best led, best equipped, and best trained in the business.
Joining a high-altitude trek or expedition is a serious decision. You should be completely confident in the organization and leadership before you make that decision. Many of you have climbed with us before, and because your experience with us was good, you're considering another climb with us. For those of you who haven't climbed with us before, we strongly encourage you to interview us thoroughly and also talk to our past clients. When you're ready to make the decision, we'll be happy to provide you with a complete list of references. In the meantime, please browse a few comments from past climbers.