Ama Dablam Climb with International Mountain Guides
Thanks for your interest in our Ama Dablam Expedition. One of the most beautiful peaks in the world, Ama rises above the Dudh Kosi River valley on the way to Everest Base Camp in Nepal.
We have learned a lot over the years going to Ama Dablam and have decided to modify our trip to provide an even better chance of reaching the summit. Doing an acclimatization climb prior to the Ama Dablam ascent makes sense in theory, but we have found that for some climbers, more time spent trekking is just more opportunity to get sick or have a problem. Instead, we have decided to go straight to Ama Dablam and then allow more time on the mountain to acclimatize and get familiar with the route. We think this will give climbers a better chance to focus on the primary objective of Ama Dablam (if you want to do more trekking in the Khumbu after the climb, that is easy to arrange). To do this, we have added more contingency days and crafted a slower and more deliberate schedule for the ascent with more rest and acclimatization days. Then, we have added more Sherpa guides, to allow 1:1 support on the summit bid. This will allow more flexibility, depending on how strong each climber is. For example, some climbers may decide to go to the top from Camp 2, while others might opt to spend a night in the higher Camp 2.7. We want to give everyone the best chance to reach the top, and we know that not everyone is going to be able to climb at the same speed.
Our Ama Dablam expedition will be Professionally Led by an IMG senior guide, and our Sherpa team. The Sherpas will be deployed differently at different times during the climb for the best advantage of the team. We will establish a totally buffed out Base Camp and a top quality logistics package for the climb. Please shop around, and if you can find a better Ama Dablam deal, buy it!
Please contact me personally if you have further questions or would like to discuss different options. We can put together a package for you that meets your requirements.
I'll look forward to hearing from you,
Eric Simonson, IMG Himalayan Program Director
How hard is Ama Dablam?
We recommend that you be very comfortable on Alpine Ice Grade III; rock climbing in rock shoes on 5.7-5.8 rock and experienced on multi pitch rock climbs wearing mountaineering boots over 4th and moderate 5th-class terrain. Most of the route on Ama Dablam is fixed, so you will also need a high level of competence ascending and descending fixed ropes and passing anchors. There is one pitch on the route that is just about dead vertical, so practice ascending a vertical fixed rope as well.
The best general practice for you is probably to go out and do some longer Grade III or IV rock climbs, preferably ridge climbs with a range of difficulty from short roping/short pitching up to moderate 5th class climbing. If you want to come out to the Northwest and train with IMG guides, we can schedule a climb for you with one of our Ama Dablam veteran guides in the North Cascades over terrain similar to what you would expect on Ama Dablam.
Expedition Organization and Leadership
International Mountain Guides ("IMG")
IMG is the oldest and most respected high-altitude climbing service in the world and its three principals, Eric Simonson, Phil Ershler, and George Dunn, have led and organized hundreds of expeditions worldwide. Each is an AMGA Certified Alpine Guide with Himalayan expedition experience including Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, Shishapangma, and Cho Oyu. IMG's Himalayan mountaineering programs are organized and directed by Eric Simonson, one of the world's premiere expedition organizers. Under his direction IMG has conducted over 40 Himalayan expeditions. His teams include a group of professionals and Sherpas who are the best in the business. Since 1990, over 600 IMG team members have summited the world's classic 8,000-meter peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma.
Our goal is to minimize risk while helping as many team members as possible reach their goal, and we invest in the people and equipment that will make this happen. We value our reputation as the premiere international climbing company, and we only put programs in place that measure up to our own high standards. If you would like to join a world-class team, we encourage you to contact us to discuss your goals and qualifications and secure an exciting role for yourself on our expedition!
Ang Jangbu and the IMG Sherpa Team
A veteran of dozens of expeditions and an Everest summiter, Ang Jangbu has worked with Eric Simonson on every IMG Himalayan program since 1991 and is a very popular leader. Ang Jangbu Sherpa and his staff put together one of the very best Sherpa teams for IMG. We are proud to have a group of Sherpas working for us who are among the best paid, best led, best equipped, and best trained in the business.
Joining a high-altitude trek or expedition is a serious decision. You should be completely confident in the organization and leadership before you make that decision. Many of you have climbed with us before, and because your experience with us was good, you're considering another climb with us. For those of you who haven't climbed with us before, we strongly encourage you to interview us thoroughly and also talk to our past customers. When you're ready to make the decision, we'll be happy to provide you with a complete list of references. In the meantime, please browse a few comments from past climbers.