Mera Peak Express Climb with International Mountain Guides
IMG's Himalayan programs are recognized worldwide as simply outstanding, with a reputation for our highly professional staff, first-rate logistics and our resulting safety and success record in the mountain. Under the direction of legendary climber and expedition leader Eric Simonson, we offer something for everyone... from treks to summit climbs.
Our 2016 Mera Peak Express climb was a great success, and for Autumn 2017, we are doing it again. The goal is to climb this beautiful 21,198 foot / 6,461 meter Himalayan Peak in under three weeks, complete with travel and contingency days!
This trip features a fantastic trek and a spectacular climb with world class summit views of five 8000'ers clearly visible (E-W: Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, Everest, Cho Oyu). Eric personally scouted each of the approaches to the valley in 2014, 2015, and 2016 and we have created a unique program for the climber who would like to get the most bang for their vacation time!
Using modern helicopters in Nepal (like the AS350B3) enables us to avoid the tough decision that has historically faced prospective Mera Peak climbers: to access the Hinku Valley you must either tackle the high Zwatra La pass very early in the trip (quite difficult) or take a much longer and more circuitous approach around from the south. Now, by flying via helicopter to Khote, we can save time and focus on a nice gradual acclimatization trek up the beautiful upper Hinku Valley. The small towns along the way (Khote, Thagnak, and Khare) are inviting to visit, and the scenery is absolutely first class.
Our trek route to Mera essentially wraps around the south, west, and north sides of the peak with the high camp on the Mera La (the 17,767ft / 5415m pass which leads to the Hongu valley). We will practice our crampons and fixed rope technique before we move up to high camp, as we may need to cross some icy slopes to reach the pass. Near the pass we will erect our tents in a sheltered spot and prepare for our summit ascent. This climb is perfect for people with Mt. Rainier type skills. We will "rope up" and use crampons and ice axes as we ascend the glacier. The final pitch is a short steep ice step which we will fix with a rope.
This would also be a great trip for our Nepal veterans who would like to get back over and do a fun trip. If you have already visited Nepal and would like to return for the highest of the "Trekking Peaks" then consider this expedition.
Hope you can do it!
Eric Simonson and Greg Vernovage, IMG Himalayan Program Directors
Expedition Organization and Leadership
International Mountain Guides ("IMG")
IMG is the oldest and most respected high-altitude climbing service in the world and its three principals, Eric Simonson, Phil Ershler, and George Dunn, have led and organized hundreds of expeditions worldwide since 1975. IMG's Himalayan mountaineering programs are organized and directed by Eric Simonson, one of the world's premiere expedition organizers. Under his direction IMG has conducted over 60 Himalayan 8000 meter expeditions. His teams include a group of professionals and Sherpas who are the best in the business. Since 1990, over 600 IMG team members have summited the world's classic 8,000-meter peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma.
IMG leads the way! Our goal is to minimize risk while helping as many members as possible reach their goal, and we invest in the logistics and manpower to make this possible. We will not sit back and let other teams do the work. Invariably, our IMG Sherpas are part of the rope fixing efforts and the first team to the summit, preparing the route for future summit bids. We value our reputation as one of the premiere international climbing companies. If you would like to join a world-class team on Everest, we encourage you to contact us to discuss your goals and qualifications for membership in the IMG Everest team!
Ang Jangbu and the IMG Sherpa Team
A veteran of dozens of expeditions and an Everest summiter, Ang Jangbu has worked with Eric Simonson on every IMG Himalayan program since 1991 and is a very popular leader. Ang Jangbu Sherpa and his staff put together one of the very best Sherpa teams for IMG. We are proud to have a group of Sherpas working for us who are among the best paid, best led, best equipped, and best trained in the business.
Joining a high-altitude trek or expedition is a serious decision. You should be completely confident in the organization and leadership before you make that decision. Many of you have climbed with us before, and because your experience with us was good, you're considering another climb with us. For those of you who haven't climbed with us before, we strongly encourage you to interview us thoroughly and also talk to our past clients. When you're ready to make the decision, we'll be happy to provide you with a complete list of references. In the meantime, please browse a few comments from past climbers.