International Mountain Guides Climbing and Mountaineering Expeditions
7 Summits

Carstensz Pyramid

Indonesia  •  16,023'  •  4,884m

Carstensz Pyramid with International Mountain Guides

Putting the Adventure into Adventure Travel:
2006 IMG Team Summits Carstensz

September 30, 2006 — I am happy to report that the entire IMG team is now off Carstensz and back to Enatoroli after a trip that puts new meaning to the expression "adventure travel". After waiting for more than a week for the helicopter and the weather to cooperate for flying, the team was given the option of flying to BC on Thursday, with the knowledge that the helicopter was only going to be available until Sunday. After that, if they were not off the mountain, it would be two more weeks before the helicopter might become available again. Darrell decided he could not risk being stuck at BC for two more weeks, so he did not fly to BC. The rest of the group flew in on Thursday, in two flights. They climbed on Friday, despite heavy rain and miserable conditions. Bill turned back from below the summit in nasty conditions, but IMG leader Mark Tucker, Nancy, Charlie, and Charlotte were able to make the top. Everyone was back to BC that night. Only one flight made it in on Saturday, and Bill and Nancy got out on that one. The heli got back in on Sunday morning, and picked the rest of the team off. They are now trying to arrange flights back to Nabire, Biak, Manado, and Singapore. What an epic!

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Climb Carstensz Pyramid with International Mountain Guides

Eric Simonson climbed Mt. Carstensz in 2001 with Indonesian guide Franky Kowaas and worked with several of the climbers involved in the recent successful expeditions in June 2005 that Franky organized. We are working with Franky for our upcoming climb. We would not be running this program if we did not think that we can do this legitimately.

Our itinerary is 20 days, allowing plenty of contingency time in case of hang ups along the way. Leading the climb with be IMG senior guide extraordinaire Mark Tucker.

If you are serious about this climb, please contact Eric Simonson at: This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need javascript enabled to view it

Expedition Overview

At long last, Indonesia has reopened Carstensz Pyramid to the international climbing community. Carstensz (known locally as Puncak Jaya or "Victory Peak") is located in Irian Jaya on the island of New Guinea. Towering above the dense tropical vegetation of the western central highlands, Carstensz is the highest mountain on the Oceanic continent at 16,023 feet.

The Carstensz climb is mostly on rock of only moderate difficulty. Team members need basic rock skills and experience with rappel and Jumar techniques. Most of the route can be safely free-climbed, but we'll fix ropes on a few of the more technical pitches.

You'll definitely need a healthy sense of adventure, though, as Carstensz is still quite isolated from tourists and very untouched by Western influence.

Recommended Reading   

I Come From the Stone Age
  — by Heinrich Harrer

Under the Mountain Wall
  —by Peter Matthiessen

Ceremonial tribal makeup in Papau New Guinea
Dates and Prices

IMG is not currently running a Carstensz Expedition. We have decided that this trip is too much "adventure travel" for us to conduct reliably. When we have more confidence in the logistics available in Papua, we will schedule this expedition again. If you are going to Carstensz with another operator, good luck, and please tell us how it went!

More Need to Know
Current Time in Irian Jaya:
Your organization and leadership are just top class, and I thoroughly enjoyed getting to know you as a person. So I wanted to thank you again for a wonderful expedition...
~David F.
 
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