International Mountain Guides Climbing and Mountaineering Expeditions

Mt. Rainier Kautz Summit Climb

WA  •  14,410'  •  4392m

IMG Kautz Glacier Route Climb on Mt Rainier

Mt. Rainier Kautz Summit Climbs

The Kautz climb is a perfect fit for anyone with prior alpine climbing experience looking to increase their climbing skills during an ascent of a more challenging route on Mt. Rainier. If you are very fit and looking to push yourself physically and technically on a climb other than the standard route this program is for you.

Why Choose This Program?

The Kautz Glacier is a great intermediate climb, a bit more demanding and technically challenging than the standard routes. It is a good choice for people in good condition who have done some previous climbing; are looking to hone their alpine skills; and are seeking a greater summit day challenge. The intermediate mountaineering training curriculum for this trip is comprehensive, but previous cramponing practice on glacier ice is required. For a refresher, or to learn additional new skills, we highly recommend the optional Mountaineering Day School, the Advanced Mountaineering Day School or the Crevasse Rescue School, which are often offered as refresher options prior to the scheduled dates of the Kautz Summit Climb. If you are very fit and looking to push yourself physically and technically on a climb other than the standard route this program is for you.

We employ a light and efficient philosophy for climbing on Mt. Rainier. We will help you pare down your personal climbing gear during a pre-climb gear check to minimize weight and make certain you bring only the essentials up the mountain.

We maximize training by adding a half day pre-climb orientation and instructional meeting at IMG's Headquarters in Ashford, just outside the park. Learning to climb thoughtfully and efficiently continues en route during each day of the ascent. This increases acclimatization, minimizes total days for the trip and allows for training to be conducted on the mountain in real conditions all the way to the summit and back.

Climbing with a 2:1 client-to-guide ratio provides a superior level of support and instruction. Our group size is never larger than twelve (8 climbers and 4 guides). IMG provides breakfasts and dinners for the group on the mountain for your convenience and comfort.

The 5-Day Kautz Ex Climb

During midsummer conditions when the Kautz route crux has a longer section of exposed, 40-50 degree glacier ice, we feel an extra day spent training on the lower glacier in advanced cramponing skills is required to get the team all climbing with the same skills. We add the Advanced Mountaineering Day School into the trip itinerary to better set up the group for success on the summit day. You are responsible for two nights of lodging in Ashford, after the ½ day on Day One and after skills training on Day Two.

Prerequisites

This is an intermediate training climb for big glaciated mountains. A review of basic climbing skills is incorporated into this program's curriculum. However, we offer our Mountaineering Day School prior to most of the Kautz programs and recommend participation in it for those who feel they need a refresher or additional skills training. If you have not climbed on steep ice with crampons before, it is strongly recommended that you participate in the Advanced Mountaineering School as well. We offer our popular 2-day crevasse rescue program prior to or just after select Kautz climbs and highly recommend this additional training as well for those who are looking for a maximum of training opportunities.

All participants must have prior alpine climbing experience either on Rainier or on other glaciated peaks, and be familiar with basic mountaineering skills including cramponing in firm ice and snow conditions. As with all IMG programs, a review of basic climbing skills is incorporated into this program's itinerary. Additional skills will be taught including multi pitch belayed climbing, lowering and rappelling. Past experience on multi day backpacking trips is highly recommended. This is a strenuous and more technically demanding summit climb, not for first time climbers.

IMG Kautz Climbers on the Summit of Mt Rainier
Dates and Prices

Kautz: Available dates  »
Landcost: $1,759
Client/Guide Ratio: 2:1
Trip Length: 4½ days

Kautz EX: Available dates  »
Landcost: $1,951
Client/Guide Ratio: 2:1
Trip Length: 5½ days

Trip Reports and Cybercasts

Click below for archived updates and photos from past Mt. Rainier expeditions:

Just wanted to drop a line and say thanks again to Dallas, Justin, Josh and Peter for making the ascent of the Kautz one for the books. Their leadership skills and professionalism made for one hell of a fun climb. From our first day of training to our final night on the summit, it was always safety first. As a client, I never felt as if I was in jeopardy. These four guides are just a small slice of the IMG team, and it is because of this type of dedication to staffing only the best, I will never use anybody but IMG.
~John C. (Rainier, Kautz Glacier)
Climbing with IMG was a night and day difference from other guides I've climbed with...
~Ben G.
 
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