Mt. Rainier Kautz Summit Climbs

The Kautz climb is a perfect fit for anyone with prior alpine climbing experience looking for a more challenging route on Mt. Rainier. If you are very fit and looking to push yourself physically and technically on a climb other than the standard route this program is for you.

Why Choose This Program?

Climbers on this program have often climbed either the Emmons or the Disappointment Cleaver routes on Mt. Rainier and have felt very comfortable on those routes. They must be confident cramponing in firm glacier conditions on steeper slopes. This is a challenging climb that ascends large and imposing glaciers and snowfields, and gets you away from the masses of the Camp Muir corridor. The crux of the route, just above high camp, involves ascending a chute that increases in angle from 30 to 50 degrees over several hundred feet and likely includes a section of firm snow or glacier ice.

Later in the season this section can become exposed glacier ice in its entirety. Multiple pitches of belays by the guides from ice anchors are often employed to facilitate passage. The 4-day program allows enough time to do the climb comfortably, but if you have not climbed on steeper ice before, we strongly recommend attending the additional Mountaineering Day School (MDS) and the Advanced Mountaineering Day School (AMDS) prior to the trip or the Kautz EX program which includes the AMDS in the itinerary. If you are looking for something more physical, technical and remote then the Kautz Glacier route is an excellent program.

We employ a light and efficient philosophy for climbing on Mt. Rainier. We will help you pare down your personal climbing gear during a pre-climb gear check to minimize weight and make certain you bring only the essentials up the mountain.

Climbing with a 2:1 client-to-guide ratio provides a superior level of support and safety. Our group size is never larger than twelve (8 climbers and 4 guides). IMG provides breakfasts and dinners for the group on the mountain for your convenience and comfort.

The 5-Day Kautz Ex Climb

During midsummer conditions when the Kautz route crux has a longer section of exposed, 40-50 degree glacier ice, we feel an extra day spent training on the lower glacier in advanced cramponing skills is required to get the team all climbing with the same skills. We add the Advanced Mountaineering Day School into the trip itinerary to better set up the group for success on the summit day. You are responsible for two nights of lodging in Ashford, after the ½ day on Day One and after skills training on Day Two.

Prerequisites

A review of basic climbing skills is incorporated into this program's itinerary. However, we offer our Mountaineering Day School prior to each of the Kautz programs and recommend participation in it for those who feel they need a refresher or additional skills training. If you have not climbed on steep ice with crampons before, it is strongly recommended that you participate in the Advanced Mountaineering School as well. We offer our popular 2-day crevasse rescue program prior to or just after select Kautz climbs and highly recommend this additional training as well for those who are looking for a maximum of training opportunities.

All participants must have prior alpine climbing experience either on Rainier or on other glaciated peaks, and be familiar with basic mountaineering skills including cramponing in firm ice and snow conditions. Past experience on multi day backpacking trips is also highly recommended. This is a strenuous and more technically demanding summit climb, not for first time climbers.