International Mountain Guides Climbing and Mountaineering Expeditions

High Alaskan Ascents

Wrangell/St. Elias, Alaska

High Alaskan Ascents with International Mountain Guides

IMG High Alaskan Ascents Gear List

This equipment list is meant to help you compile your personal gear for a mountaineering expedition. Most items are required. Please consider each item carefully and be sure you understand the function of each piece of equipment before you substitute or delete items. Keep in mind that this list has been carefully compiled by the expedition organizer. Don't cut corners on the quality of your gear.

[  ]Boots: Plastic double boots only. Asolo AFS 8000, Koflach Arctis Expedition with aveolite liners, Scarpa Inverno with high-altitude liners or comparable.
[  ]Overboots: 40 Below Purple Haze or Outdoor Research Brooks Ranger Overboots are recommended. An expedition weight Supergaiter is acceptable. A good snug fit is extremely important for either choice. If using overboots, bring a regular gaiter for the approach.
[  ]Socks: Three complete changes of heavy wool/synthetic socks with liners.
[  ]Underwear: Two lightweight or medium weight synthetic tops and one medium weight longjohn bottom.
[  ]Shirt: Expedition weight synthetic (100 weight Polartec), or equivalent.
[  ]Soft Shell or fleece: jacket and pants. Full-length zips are recommended for pants.
[  ]Storm shell Waterproof/breathable jacket and pants. Jacket should have a close-fitting, attached hood. Pants must have full-length zippers. Bib pants are warmer and help to keep out drafts.
[  ]Down parka: Expedition weight parka with attached hood. Size large enough to wear over all other layers.
[  ]Hat: fleece or wool hat with separate face mask, neck gaiter or balaclava.
[  ]Sun hat: Baseball hat, large bandana is useful too.
[  ]Gloves: Two pair, one fleece and one Gore-Tex ski or climbing glove.
[  ]Mitts: Heavy fleece mitts with a Gore-Tex overshell.
[  ]Glacier glasses: Dark with good side shields.
[  ]Ski goggles: Double lens to reduce fogging.
[  ]Water bottles: Two wide mouth plastic bottles with insulating covers (like the Outdoor Research Water Bottle Parka).
[  ]Suncream/Lipbalm: SPF 15 or higher.
[  ]Sleeping bag: Rated to -20°F or lower. Best and lightest is a Gore-Tex covered down bag. Next best is a synthetic bag. A good compression stuff sack is highly recommended.
[  ]Pads: 1 closed cell foam pad and 1 Thermarest pad.
[  ]Pack: Large (6,000 cu.in.) expedition size internal frame.
[  ]Bowl, cup & spoon: Large (12 oz. or more) insulated plastic cup, large flexible plastic bowl and Lexan plastic spoon.
[  ]Pocket knife and butane lighter
[  ]Seat harness: Adjustable leg loops are best
[  ]Carabiners: Two pear shaped locking, and two regular, minimum.
[  ]Ascenders: Bring a set, one rigged to clip into your seat harness, one with a leg loop. I prefer Petzl ascenders. Optional: bring just one ascender and a couple of 7mm prussik loops.
[  ]Crampons: 12 point hinged flat frame crampons. Make sure they stay on over your overboots. Grivel G-12's with the New-matic binding work well.
[  ]Ice axe: 70 cm. with leash.
[  ]Belay device: on climbs rated Alaskan grade 2 or higher, a belay device such as the Black Diamond ATC XP is required.
[  ]Ski poles: Collapsible poles are highly recommended.
[  ]Snowshoes***: Lightweight with traction bindings. Atlas, Tubbs and Sherpa are recommended brands.
[  ]Avalanche transceiver***: Recommended for most, but not all trips.
[  ]First Aid kit: Each individual must carry a small personal first aid kit to avoid depletion of the group kit. You should have the following: aspirin (or Tylenol); ibuprofen; antacid (Pepto Bismol, Rolaids); anti- diarrhea medication (Imodium); Band-Aids; athletic tape; moleskin, Second Skin or Compede. Consult with your doctor and bring any recommended prescriptions necessary for your health. Consider bringing a prescription of acetazolamide (Diamox) 125 or 250 mg. tablets for climbs over 14,000 feet (to be used only in emergency). Earplugs are useful for sleeping.
[  ]Lunch food: Bulk lunch items will be provided (Pilot bread, block cheese, pb&j, sardines, etc.). Bring your own energy bars, gorp, candy, special cheeses, sausage, jerky, drink mix, etc. About 10 lbs. total for two weeks is normal. This will be used as climbing snacks during the day and at night in the tent.
[  ]Sled rigging: If we use sleds to move camp, bring 20' of 1" webbing and 4-6 long bungie cords.
[  ]Lockable duffel: To store street clothes, towel, toiletries, and items to be left with bush pilot.
[  ]Toiletries: Toothbrush and small tube of paste. One roll of t.p. in a ziplock bag. Bring your own towel and soap for use at the bush pilot's lodge if we overnight there.
[  ]Optional items: Collapsible shovel ( aluminum is preferred over plastic), camera and film, small journal and pen, thick paperback. A headlamp is usually not necessary in Alaska by mid-April, but might be useful for reading or emergencies in the middle of the night. The new LED headlamps are nice and light.

*** available for rent
High Alaskan Ascents with International Mountain Guides
Recommended Gear

Confused by what exactly we mean on some of the listed gear, or wondering which brands might be better? See the IMG Recommended Gear Page »

Then browse the IMG Online Gear Store for our favorite climbing and trekking gear, as well as used rental gear, logo t-shirts, and more.

If you can't find what you need in our store, IMG is proud to feature our partnership with Mountain Gear, and we recommend them for your equipment requirements. IMG climbers get 5% off when they click through here to access Mountain Gear's Online Store or call 800-829-2009 and use code: 0IMG (zeroIMG)


The Mt. Bona trip was everything I expected and then some. The place is absolutely beautiful... everyone worked and lived well together... the food selection was outstanding... and, I don't need to tell you how enjoyable Mark and Eric were. They both also seemed to get a special thrill out of the place and the people...
~Jim M.
Every time I go on one of George Dunn's expeditions, I come back saying, 'that was the best adventure I've ever been on'!!... I had the time of my life on each trip...
~Bruce G.
After 10 years of mountaineering trips with close to a dozen different outfitters and guide services (as well as a number of self-organized trips,) I've learned what goes into making a climb challenging, enjoyable, fulfilling, and safe. George Dunn and his programs are top rate in my opinion: he has immense experience and knowledge; his programs are well organized and executed; he provides destinations and climbs that can fit a variety of skill levels, backgrounds, and interests; he brings an even-handed, level-headed positive attitude to the different circumstances encountered during an expedition; and his associate guides are excellent. In the future, whenever I feel the itch to get away and go climbing, I'll check on what George has scheduled before I make any other commitments!
~Marc C.
 
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