International Mountain Guides Climbing and Mountaineering Expeditions

High Alaskan Ascents

Wrangell/St. Elias, Alaska

High Alaskan Ascents with International Mountain Guides

IMG High Alaskan Ascents Gear List

This equipment list is meant to help you compile your personal gear for a mountaineering expedition. Most items are required. Please consider each item carefully and be sure you understand the function of each piece of equipment before you substitute or delete items. Keep in mind that this list has been carefully compiled by the expedition organizer. Don't cut corners on the quality of your gear.

[  ]Boots: Plastic double boots only. Koflach Arctis Expedition; Scarpa Inverno; Scarpa Omega; La Sportiva Baruntse; La Sportiva Spantik or Asolo AFS 8000.
[  ]Overboots: 40 Below Purple Haze are recommended for April and May climbs. An expedition weight Supergaiter is acceptable. A good snug fit is extremely important for either choice. If using overboots, bring a regular gaiter for the approach. If your double boots are new with expedition liners, you can normally do without overboots for mid-May to June climbs if you have normal circulation.
[  ]Socks: Three complete changes of heavy wool/synthetic socks with liners.
[  ]Underwear: One lightweight and one medium weight synthetic top, one lightweight longjohn bottom and one expedition weight bottom.
[  ]Soft Shell jacket and climbing pant.
[  ]Storm shell Waterproof/breathable jacket and pants (Gore-Tex). Jacket should have a close-fitting, attached hood. Pants must have ¾ or full-length zippers. Bib pants are warmer and help to keep out drafts.
[  ]Down parka: Expedition weight parka with attached hood. Size large enough to wear over all other layers.
[  ]Insulated over pant. Examples include Outdoor Research Neoplume or Mountain Hardwear Compressor pant.
[  ]Hat: fleece or wool hat with separate neck gaiter or balaclava. Size to fit under helmet
[  ]Face protection: For sun and wind. Buff or lightweight balaclava
[  ]Sun hat: Baseball or wide brimmed hat. Size to fit under helmet.
[  ]Gloves: Two pair, one fleece and one insulated Gore-Tex ski or climbing glove.
[  ]Mitts: Heavy insulated mitts.
[  ]Glacier glasses: Dark with good side shields or wrap around design.
[  ]Ski goggles: Double lens to reduce fogging.
[  ]Water bottles: Two wide mouth plastic bottles with insulating covers (like the Outdoor Research Water Bottle Parka).
[  ]Suncream/Lipbalm: SPF 15 or higher.
[  ]Sleeping bag: Rated to -20°F or lower. Best and lightest is a Gore-Tex covered down bag. Next best is a synthetic bag. A good compression stuff sack is highly recommended.
[  ]Pads: 1 closed cell foam pad and 1 Thermarest pad.
[  ]Pack: Large (up to 6,000 cu.in. or 80 liter) expedition size internal frame.
[  ]Bowl, cup and spoon: Large (12 oz. or more) insulated plastic cup, large flexible plastic bowl and Lexan plastic spoon.
[  ]Pocket knife and butane lighter
[  ]Alpine climbing harness: Adjustable leg loops are best
[  ]Carabiners: Two pear shaped locking, and four regular, minimum.
[  ]Perlon accessory cord: bring 24 feet for construction of prussik loops. Optional: bring one mechanical ascender in addition to the cord.
[  ]Crampons: 12 point hinged flat frame crampons. Make sure they stay on over your overboots. Crampons with plastic toe and heel retaining pieces do best.
[  ]Ice axe: 70 cm. with leash.
[  ]Ski poles***: Collapsible poles with large ski baskets
[  ]Snowshoes***: Lightweight with traction bindings. Atlas, Tubbs and Sherpa are recommended brands.
[  ]Avalanche transceiver***: Recommended for some, but not all trips.
[  ]First Aid kit: Each individual must carry a small personal first aid kit to avoid depletion of the group kit. You should have the following: aspirin (or Tylenol); ibuprofen; antacid (Pepto Bismol, Rolaids); anti-diarrhea medication (Imodium); Band-Aids; athletic tape; moleskin, Second Skin or Compede. Consult with your doctor and bring any recommended prescriptions necessary for your health. Consider bringing a prescription of acetazolamide (Diamox) 125 or 250 mg. tablets for climbs over 14,000 feet (to be used only in emergency). Also bring a broad spectrum antibiotic like Ciprofloxacin. Earplugs are useful for sleeping.
[  ]Lunch food: Bulk lunch items will be provided (Pilot bread, block cheese, pb&j, sardines, etc.). Bring your own energy bars, gorp, candy, special cheeses, sausage, jerky, drink mix, etc. About 10 lbs. total for two weeks is normal. This will be used as climbing snacks during the day and at night in the tent.
[  ]Sled rigging: If we use sleds to move camp, bring 20' of 1" webbing and 4-6 long bungie cords.
[  ]Lockable duffel: To store street clothes, towel, toiletries, and items to be left with bush pilot.
[  ]Large duffel: for carrying group gear on your sled. A large, lightweight model is best, like the REI Classic XL duffel.
[  ]Toiletries: Toothbrush and small tube of paste. One roll of t.p. in a Ziploc bag. Bring your own towel and soap for use at the bush pilot's lodge if we overnight there.
[  ]Optional items: Collapsible shovel (aluminum is preferred over plastic), compact digital camera, small journal and pen, thick paperback. A headlamp is usually not necessary in Alaska by mid-May, but might be useful for reading or emergencies in the middle of the night. A small LED headlamp works great for this purpose.
*** available for rent
High Alaskan Ascents with International Mountain Guides
Recommended Gear

Confused by what exactly we mean on some of the listed gear, or wondering which brands might be better? See the IMG Recommended Gear Page »

Then browse the IMG Online Gear Store for our favorite climbing and trekking gear, as well as used rental gear, logo t-shirts, and more.

If you can't find what you need in our store, IMG is proud to feature our partnership with Mountain Gear, and we recommend them for your equipment requirements. IMG climbers get 5% off when they click through here to access Mountain Gear's Online Store or call 800-829-2009 and use code: 0IMG (zeroIMG)


The Mt. Bona trip was everything I expected and then some. The place is absolutely beautiful... everyone worked and lived well together... the food selection was outstanding... and, I don't need to tell you how enjoyable Mark and Eric were. They both also seemed to get a special thrill out of the place and the people...
~Jim M.
Every time I go on one of George Dunn's expeditions, I come back saying, 'that was the best adventure I've ever been on'!!... I had the time of my life on each trip...
~Bruce G.
After 10 years of mountaineering trips with close to a dozen different outfitters and guide services (as well as a number of self-organized trips,) I've learned what goes into making a climb challenging, enjoyable, fulfilling, and safe. George Dunn and his programs are top rate in my opinion: he has immense experience and knowledge; his programs are well organized and executed; he provides destinations and climbs that can fit a variety of skill levels, backgrounds, and interests; he brings an even-handed, level-headed positive attitude to the different circumstances encountered during an expedition; and his associate guides are excellent. In the future, whenever I feel the itch to get away and go climbing, I'll check on what George has scheduled before I make any other commitments!
~Marc C.
 
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