International Mountain Guides Climbing and Mountaineering Expeditions

Mt. Logan Climb

Canada's Highest Peak  •  19,850'  •  6050m

Mt. Logan Climb with International Mountain Guides

IMG Mt. Logan Climb Itinerary

Day Itinerary
Day 1The group will meet in Anchorage on the afternoon of the starting date of the expedition. Arrangements will be made for us to spend the night at a local bed and breakfast (name and location to be announced). The cost of this will be up to each individual, and will generally be $25-$35. We will meet at the bed and breakfast as our flight arrivals permit. The evening will be the last opportunity to pick up additional food items or gear for the trip. There is an REI and a local climbing store nearby.
Day 2Early breakfast and departure for Chitina. Transportation to Chitina will be prearranged and will cost each individual approximately $115 round trip. The drive to Chitina is spectacular and takes about 5 hours with a lunch stop on the way. At the Chitina airstrip, the bush pilot will pick us up and will shuttle us to his wilderness lodge, about 45 minutes flying time up the Chitina River. The night will be spent in rustic bunks at the lodge and we will be provided with dinner and breakfast.
Day 3Weather permitting, we will fly to our landing site on the glacier (9,000') and establish a Base Camp.
Day 4Carry to Camp I (11,200'). A long, easy carry with sleds, about 7 kilometers. 4-5 hours up and 1 hour down.
Day 5Rest day at Base.
Day 6Move from Base to Camp I.
Day 7Carry the 4.5 kilometers to Camp II (13,200'), just below King Col, or cache gear at 12,500'.
Day 8Move to Camp II.
Day 9Down carry to retrieve gear cached at 12,500'.
Day 10Climb the last bit up to King Col, then route find up a 1,500-foot high slope with angles of up to 45 degrees. This is perhaps the crux of the climb, but not excessively difficult. We are on the lookout for avalanche hazard in this area. Make a cache at around 15,000'.
Day 11Move to Camp II at approximately 15,000'.
Day 12Rest day.
Day 13Carry a load up past "the football field" at 16,000' to Camp III, "Windy Camp" at 17,000'.
Day 14Move to Camp III.
Day 15Rest day.
Day 16Carry up to Prospector's Col (Iona Col) at 18,000' and leave a cache.
Day 17Move camp up over Prospector's Col and down the other side onto the great ice plateau to Camp IV (17,600'). We will plush as far as possible across the plateau to minimize the summit day.
Day 18Rest day.
Day 19Possible summit day. It is a long, arduous, high altitude walk of 3-4 miles to the summit from high camp. It is not difficult terrain, but a very demanding day.
Day 20Descent to King Col camp.
Day 21Descent to Base and pickup by bush pilot. Fly out to Chitina and return to Anchorage. Evening flight home if possible.
Day 22Return home.

Please note: The above itinerary is only a guideline. The climbing time is very similar to Mt. McKinley. If all goes well, we could very well do the entire climb in just over two weeks. If there are stormy periods, as we should expect, it may take up to three weeks to accomplish the climb. In extreme weather, we must be prepared to take as long as 25 or more days. There are no guarantees. Our rate of ascent will be calculated to give the team the best possible chance to acclimatize properly and have their best chance at the summit. Do your part by preparing as carefully as you can and coming in the best shape of your life.

Mt. Logan Expedition, Canada, with International Mountain Guides
Every time I go on one of George Dunn's expeditions, I come back saying, 'that was the best adventure I've ever been on'!!... I had the time of my life on each trip.
~Bruce G.
 
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