2027 IMG Denali Mt. McKinley West Buttress Gear List

This equipment list is meant to help you compile your personal gear for a mountaineering expedition. Most items are required. Please consider each item carefully and be sure you understand the function of each piece of equipment before you substitute or delete items. Keep in mind that this list has been carefully compiled by the expedition organizer. Don't cut corners on the quality of your gear.

Here's a downloadable PDF of the 2027 IMG Denali West Buttress Gear List with guide recommendations: Click Here

Climbing Gear
[  ]	Expedition-Sized Backpack: 85-110L capacity. This is absolutely necessary for carrying equipment up to High Camp from 14 Camp, when we are climbing without sleds. Be sure to get this sized properly for your body; if you are unsure what size to get, we’d recommend going to a gear shop like REI to get help from a professional fitter. The smaller capacity backpacks will be much harder to pack, so we recommend getting as close to a 100L as possible. Examples: Mountain Hardware AMG 105
[  ]	Climbing Duffel for Sled: An approximately 140L+ duffel is necessary, and lightweight options are best. We love the 140L RoadTripper Duffel by REI for its weight and size.
[  ]	Climbing Harness: A lightweight alpine harness is preferable to a heavier rock-climbing style harness, as these save weight and are more comfortable under a pack. Be sure to size this to fit over top of your layers, as this may change the size you need. You really can’t go wrong with the Petzl Altitude or the Black Diamond Couloir models!
[  ]	3 x Locking Carabiners: Ideally pear-shaped. You need three of these for use with your sled and harness. Our favorites are the Petzl Attache and the Petzl Rocha, for their shape, size, and weight.
[  ]	8 x Non-Locking Carabiners: Lightweight is best. Eight of these are necessary for your sled and for use on the Denali Pass Traverse and 16 Ridge, where your guides will place non-locking carabiners along the route.
[  ]	Ascender: These are for use on the fixed lines between 14 Camp and High Camp. A right-handed or left-handed ascender are both perfectly fine; we recommend purchasing one that corresponds to your dominant hand for ease of use! Example: Petzl Ascension
[  ]	60’ of 6mm Cordelette: These are for use with your ascender, sled, and backpack rigging. If purchasing in pre-cut sections, please make sure the sections are 30’ or longer. Example: Sterling Alpine Accessory Cord - 30’
[  ]	20’ of 3mm Accessory Cord: This is for lashing your duffel bag to your sled and does not need to be rated for climbing purposes. Example: PMI 3mm Utility Cord
[  ]	Ice Axe: Approximately 60-70cm long. A straight-shaft, mountaineering-style ice axe is ideal for weight and use as a cane. You will not need heavier, more technical-focused axes such as the Petzl Quark. Example: Petzl Glacier
[  ]	Ice Axe Waist Leash: A leash for connecting your ice axe to your harness is essential; wrist-leashes are not acceptable due to the added difficulty when switching hands on your axe. Example: Black Diamond Slinger Ice Axe Leash
[  ]	Climbing Helmet: Must be a climbing-specific and UIAA certified helmet; ski or bike helmets will not be acceptable. We strongly encourage that you purchase a lightweight helmet that is white or light-colored, as these are more comfortable in the sun. Example: Petzl Sirocco - White
[  ]	Trekking Poles: Collapsible 3-section poles with snow baskets. There can be a lot of snow up there, so do not bring small baskets made for hiking! Examples: Black Diamond Expedition 3
[  ]	Snowshoes: Needed lower on the mountain for flotation over crevasses and in deeper snow. These do not need to be too big, as we are not using these in a winter-time snowpack; a 22-inch snowshoe is perfect. Lightweight snowshoes with riser bars are ideal. Example: MSR Evo Ascent
[  ]	Avalanche Transceiver: A modern 3 antenna avalanche transceiver with fresh batteries and one spare set that is appropriate for your specific unit (lithium batteries are preferred if your unit is compatible with them). Good options include the Mammut Barryvox or BCA Tracker 4.
[  ]	Crampons: Modern 12-point adjustable mountaineering crampons with anti-balling plates. Make sure they stay on securely over your overboots or triple boots. Pick a crampon that has horizontal front points as opposed to vertical front points. Petzl Vasak or Grivel G12's are both good options. Note: you must ensure that your crampons fit your boots properly before departure. Test the fit thoroughly; if you do not have snow where you live, we recommend walking around in the grass or gravel for a while to test the fit. If your boots are a large size, you may need an extender bar to make your crampons fit properly. Most guides prefer using the semi-automatic strap-toe attachment when setting up their crampons for use with overboots or triple boots. We find this system is more reliable than the fully-automatic metal toe bail. Please refer to the notes at the bottom of the gear list on further crampon compatibility issues with 8000m boots.
Clothing and Layering
[  ]	2-4 x Pairs of Underwear: We recommend 2-3 pairs of underwear for the entirety of your time on the mountain. Yes, you read that correctly! Women may consider bringing more pairs, but do not go too heavy: most female guides only bring 3-4 pairs! Must be synthetic or wool/synthetic blend. Cotton is unacceptable for any of the following layers. Women and men both might consider choosing a pair with a fly, for use while peeing with a pee funnel or otherwise.
[  ]	2 x Sports Bras: Use a sports bra you are comfortable in and have been training with. Make sure it’s not too tight as this can be uncomfortable over long days and restrict your breathing! Lots of guides prefer to use one sports bra for camp and one for moving, and you can switch out as needed.
[  ]	2 x Base Layer Tops: Most guides prefer to bring one lightweight, moisture-wicking and light-colored sun hoody for heat management lower on the mountain, and one midweight base layer top for higher on the mountain. You may bring an extra sun hoody or base layer if you’d like, but do not bring more than 3 base layers; this is important for saving weight. Examples: Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody, Smartwool Classic Thermal Merino ¼ Zip Base Layer
[  ]	2 x Base Layer Bottoms: We recommend bringing one pair of lightweight long-john underwear, and one expedition weight pair. These should fit comfortably underneath your softshell pants and insulated pants. Some folks like to layer the lightweight long-john underneath the thermal weight as well, all underneath your softshell pants. Super toasty! Examples: Patagonia Lightweight Capilene Bottom, Patagonia Thermal Weight Capilene Bottom
[  ]	Lightweight Insulating Layer: A lightweight and breathable layer to go over your base layer. This shouldn’t be too warm and should work well during periods of activity. A technical fleece works well for this layer. Example: Patagonia R1 Hoody
[  ]	Heavyweight Insulating Layer: For this layer, most guides will choose a medium-weight down jacket for the high warmth:weight ratio. This is not to be confused with your heavier down parka, which is a much larger down layer. Example: Mountain Hardwear Stretch Down Hoody
[  ]	Midweight Insulating Layer (optional but strongly recommended if you run cold): If you run cold or have had issues with being cold in the mountains before, it is strongly recommended to bring an extra insulating layer. This can be lightweight, such as a Nano Puff or a down vest. Examples: Patagonia Nano Puff, Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer Vest
[  ]	Softshell Jacket: Softshell jackets are very nice for their light weather resistance, abrasion resistance, and comfortable, stretchy-feel. Guides love to wear this layer when there is a little bit of wind, or when you’ll be brushing up against rock and ice at times, like on 16 Ridge. Ideally you should choose one of the heavier options on the market for the added warmth, such as the OR Ferrosi. This layer should fit over top of your base layer, lightweight, and heavyweight insulating layers.
[  ]	Hard Shell Gore-Tex Rain Jacket: Yes, it does sometimes rain on Denali/McKinley, especially down lower on the mountain! You will need a waterproof rain jacket, ideally with 3-layer Gore-Tex or equivalent material. You do NOT want a rain jacket that is insulated, such as a ski jacket; this should simply be a shell only. This layer should fit over top of your base layer, insulating layers, and softshell jacket. It does not need to fit over your parka. If it’s raining, it’s too warm to wear your parka! Example: Rab Kangri Gore-Tex Jacket
[  ]	Expedition Parka: Expedition down parka that fits over all other layers. This should be one of the warmest parkas on the market, such as the Feathered Friends Khumbu or the Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero. Do not skimp on this layer. If it is not sufficient, you will have to find one to buy or rent in Anchorage, which may or may not be possible. Some folks ask if they can swap out multiple smaller down jackets as a replacement for their heavy parka. This is NOT possible, as you need to be able to very quickly put on your parka in the event of an emergency or weather moving in. For this reason, the stand-alone, super-warm parka is a necessary piece of gear in your expedition kit!
[  ]	Softshell Climbing Pants: Softshell pants are an essential piece of gear for warmth, durability, weather resistance, and comfort. Guides live everyday in these pants! You need one of the warmer options on the market, such as the Outdoor Research Cirque 3 pant. There are a lot of thinner options out there that are designed for warmer environments and rock climbing; these will not suffice in the Alaska Range.
[  ]	Insulated Climbing Pants: These can be down or synthetic, and must fit over your softshell and hard shell pants. They must have full-length zippers on the sides, so that you can take them on-and-off while wearing your boots and crampons. Do not skimp on these, they are a very important piece of gear for when the temps drop! We use them while climbing and while hanging out around camp. Make sure they aren’t too tight and your harness fits over top of everything while layered with your other pants!
[  ]	Hard Shell Gore-Tex Rain Pants: Again, it does rain on Denali/McKinley and you do need hard shells! These can also be used to provide some protection from the wind or from the snow during colder storms. They should feature Gore-Tex or equivalent material. They should also have full-length zippers on the sides, so that you can take them on-and-off while wearing your boots and crampons. They must fit over your softshell pants.
Head and Face
[  ]	Sun Hat: Many guides prefer 5-panel style hats which fit underneath a helmet well. Be careful with large, flappy sun hats, as these can be very annoying in the wind. You can go with personal preference here, but we strongly recommend a synthetic, lightweight, quick-drying running or trucker hat that fits comfortably under your helmet, and with your sunglasses and goggles.
[  ]	Warm Hat: Wool or fleece hat which must fit underneath your helmet comfortably. We strongly discourage hats with anything poofy or with strings on top as these do not fit well under a helmet. Example: Acrteryx Bird Head Toque
[  ]	2x Buffs / Neck Gaiters: Guides love the Buff: it works as a neck gaiter, bandana, light hat, and a face covering. We recommend bringing two, which you can swap out for cleanliness and layer together when the temps drop! There are tons of options out there: we recommend at least one lightweight one for sun protection on the hotter days, and a warmer one to layer with up higher on the mountain.
[  ]	Balaclava: A face-covering to protect from frostbite is absolutely essential for higher up on the mountain. You can use a standard balaclava, such as the Smith Polar Balaclava, which is a combined face covering and neck gaiter. A lot of guides love using OuterU FaceGloves for this purpose, combined with two buffs to completely cover your neck, face, ears, cheeks, and nose. OuterU’s are sold in two varying thicknesses, one for warmer weather (FaceGlove Flex or Sun), and one for colder weather (FaceGlove GO or DIY). Guides often carry both, and swap out for the warmer OuterU when the temps drop, using the thinner one for sun protection. Note: If utilizing an OuterU as your balaclava setup, we’d also recommend purchasing a neoprene mask with velcro closure on the back, which can go on quickly over top of your OuterU for added warmth and protection if necessary in extreme weather.
[  ]	Glacier Glasses: Not all sunglasses are created equal. For Denali/McKinley, you will want “Category 4” with full UVA/UVB protection and shields on the sides: your eyes are worth it! Some companies sell photo-chromatic lenses which adjust to the light; these are great, as long as they go to full Category 4. Make sure your glasses fit with your hat / buff / balaclava / face mask setup as well! You can’t go wrong with Julbo. They make the best glacier glasses on the market. Fun fact: it’s technically illegal to drive a vehicle while wearing Category 4 lenses. That’s how dark they are!
[  ]	Ski Goggles: Goggles are necessary for wind and snow protection when the weather kicks up. We recommend a medium-dark lens, or ideally, a photochromatic lens. Like all gear for protecting your head-and-face, ensure that it all works together in a nice ensemble! Try on the fit at home and look in the mirror to check for any exposed skin.
Hands
[  ]	Lightweight Glove: When traveling on the glacier, you always need to be wearing some sort of glove. At times, Denali/McKinley will be the hottest temperatures you’ve ever experienced: this is when a lightweight leather is absolutely essential! These should not be too warm, and if you are using liner gloves, your liner glove should fit inside this glove. Example: OR StormTracker Glove
[  ]	Midweight Glove: This glove should be warmer than your lightweight glove, and if you are using liner gloves, your hand and liners should also fit inside this one. The guide favorite is the Outdoor Research Extravert!
[  ]	Heavyweight Glove: These should be very warm, and your liner gloves should also fit inside if you are using those. A heavy ski glove is a good option for this. Ideally these are warm enough that you only ever use your mitts in emergencies or on extremely cold summit days! Common choices are shown to the right. Example: Black Diamond Guide Gloves (warning: they fit small, so size up)
[  ]	Expedition Mitts: A super-warm, waterproof expedition mitt is essential as a piece of emergency equipment and for when the weather goes extreme. A time-tested choice is the Outdoor Research Alti Mitt.
[  ]	Liner Gloves (optional but strongly recommended): Optional item, but STRONGLY recommended. Wearing liner gloves underneath your warmer gloves is a great way to protect your hands from frostbite, especially in moments when you need to remove your hands from your gloves (fixing a crampon, peeing, etc). Guides all use these and we strongly encourage you to use them as well, and make sure they fit inside all of your other gloves! Example: Patagonia Midweight Capilene Liner Gloves
[  ]	Hand Warmers (optional but strongly recommended): Two to three pairs of hand warmers are great to have up high when the temps drop. We recommend keeping one pair on-your-person in a chest pocket or pant pocket when climbing above 14 Camp, as this will make it quick and easy to use them when necessary!
Feet
[  ]	Double or Triple Mountaineering Boots: Oh, the age old debate on Denali/McKinley: ‘Do I bring double boots with overboots, or an 8000m triple boot?’ We are here to help you decide, and both have their own pros/cons. Double boots are not warm enough for the upper mountain, meaning you must purchase and carry neoprene “overboots” to add warmth and waterproofing up high. However, lower on the mountain when you don’t need such warm boots, some people (especially those with very warm and/or sweaty feet) might appreciate that double boots run a little colder. Triple boots are the warmest option, and recommended for those who run cold or frequently deal with cold feet. However, lower on the mountain, you don’t have the option to make them less-warm, so you might have sweatier feet on the lower mountain. At the end of the day, both options work fine. Just make sure you test the fit of your boots before purchasing, ideally break them in with some training hikes, and thoroughly test the fit of your crampons with your boots before departure! For climbers who already own 8000m boots or who have Himalaya climbing ambitions, this is a great option. If you already own double boots or don’t plan on climbing other mountains higher than Denali/McKinley, purchasing overboots with your double boots is a great option. Examples: La Sportiva Olympus Mons Pro (Triple Boot), La Sportiva G2 Evo (Double Boot), Scarpa 8000 (Triple Boot), Scarpa 6000 HD (Double Boot)
[  ]	4 x Pairs of Socks: We recommend four pairs of varying thicknesses, for the changing temperatures as you go higher on the mountain! A lot of folks love ski socks, as these sit higher on your calves and provide added warmth. Some people prefer using liner socks underneath their thicker socks for blister prevention. Go with whatever system you prefer and have been actively using throughout your training! Heated socks are also an option and can provide a lot of added warmth, but should only be used on summit day as the batteries will die after one full day of use. Most guides prefer something along these lines: 1) Standard mid-height hiking sock (preferably tall enough to extend past your boot’s integrated gaiter), 2) Heavier, warmer hiking sock or light ski sock, 3) Heavy ski sock, 4) Heavy ski sock or heated socks. Whatever you do, do NOT layer two thick socks together as this will likely be too-tight and constrict your bloodflow, causing your feet to be even colder. Some folks also use one of their heavier socks as a “sleeping sock” for lower down on the mountain, which is nice!
[  ]	Overboots (mandatory for those using Double Boots): If you do choose to go the Double Boot route, you will need neoprene overboots that fit over your boots to add warmth and waterproofing up high. The best (and one of the only) options on the market are 40 Below overboots. These need to be ordered in advance, so buy these ASAP!
[  ]	Down or Synthetic Camp Booties: Nobody wants to wear mountain boots only for three weeks! A camp bootie is necessary on Denali/McKinley for hanging out around camp and giving your feet a chance to dry and heal outside of your boots. Just be careful, as most have slippery soles. Pro tip: put your bootie inside your overboots for extra traction while walking around camp! Example: 40 Below Camp Booties
Camping Gear
[  ]	Down Sleeping Bag: MUST be rated to -20℉ or lower. If you get cold easily, a -40℉ bag is highly recommended. Synthetic bags are NOT recommended, as these do not pack down as well. If you can find a down sleeping bag with a water resistant outer fabric, such as the Rab Expedition 1000, that is ideal!
[  ]	Compression Sack for Sleeping Bag (optional but strongly recommended): Sleeping bags on Denali/McKinely are huge and bulky, so a compression sack is highly recommended for storing in your pack while moving! The Sea-to-Summit Evac compression sack is great because it features a one-way valve at the bottom, which allows you to compress your bag down incredibly small.
[  ]	Inflatable Sleeping Pad: We recommend choosing an inflatable pad with the highest insulation rating (‘R-value’) you can find; this will keep you noticeably warmer. The guide favorite is the Thermarest NeoAir X-Therm, with a whopping 7.3 R-value!
[  ]	Foam Sleeping Pad: A closed-cell foam sleeping pad is required for added insulation, and as a durable back-up in case you puncture your inflatable pad and we cannot repair it. This doubles as a camp chair for hanging out in the cook tent! Example: Thermarest Z-Lite
[  ]	Inflatable Pillow (optional): Optional, but a small, lightweight inflatable pillow can make sleeping much more comfortable. Don’t bring one with insulation, as those are too bulky and heavy. Example: Thermarest Airhead Lite
[  ]	2 x 1L Wide-Mouth Water Bottles: Two 1-liter water bottles are required for water storage while climbing. These need to be wide-mouthed, as narrow-mouth bottles will freeze. The trusty Nalgene is the best choice. DO NOT bring a water bladder. These will certainly freeze and the hoses will fail. If you bring a bladder, your guides will require you to buy two Nalgenes instead.
[  ]	2 x Water Bottle Insulators: If you didn’t already know, Denali/McKinely is cold! Water bottles will freeze completely if left outside of your sleeping bag. We need to use water bottle insulators to keep bottles from freezing around camp and while climbing. 40 Below makes the best one on the market, but be sure to order early as they sell out every season!
[  ]	Thermos: A thermos is nice for drinking coffee, tea, and hot drinks at camp, and for drinking hot water while climbing. Keep it light: there are a lot of great lightweight options out there, such as the Thermos Direct Drink. Your thermos also serves as added water storage, if you want to carry more than 2L on a given climbing day.
[  ]	Cup (optional): If you prefer not to use your thermos for coffee/tea/hot drinks, then a small, collapsible cup is nice for drinking hot drinks at camp. Most guides skip this item to save weight, and instead use a 16-oz ‘Baby Nalgene’ with an insulator or a Thermos for their hot drinks.
[  ]	Bowl: A lightweight bowl that folds down is ideal for saving weight and space in your pack. We love the Fozzils SnapFold bowl, because it lies flat in your pack!
[  ]	Spork: You do NOT need an entire cutlery set. One titanium spork is all you need! We like the long-handle sporks, as they make eating dehydrated meals easier.
[  ]	5 Large Compactor Trash Bags: Trash bags are essential for keeping gear dry in your duffel, backpack, and inside the tent. Bring 5 for redundancy and storage capacity in your duffel. These should be durable and thick.
[  ]	Watch with Alarm (optional with a smartphone): You must have some way of waking yourself up in order to be timely on the expedition. If you have a phone and charging battery, that is sufficient, but most folks prefer to also wear a wrist watch. GPS watches are becoming increasingly popular, and are a fun way to track your progress and record your trip!
[  ]	Pee Bottle (optional but strongly recommended): Nothing is worse than getting out of your tent to pee at night on Denali. We strongly encourage folks to bring a pee bottle for peeing while inside your tent; this will not only be more comfortable, but it will encourage you to pee at night and not hold it in, which will make you sleep better! Mark this so it is obvious. Something lightweight and at least 1L (ideally larger) is best. Practice using it before departure!
[  ]	Pee Funnel (optional): For women, using a pee-funnel allows you to pee while standing up, and to use a pee bottle at night. However, be sure to practice in the shower or bathtub before departure, and then practice outside with your pants on, as it can take some getting used to! We recommend a hard-top upper portion and a flexible hose. The silicone funnels do not work as well. Example: Freshette Reusable Pee Funnel
[  ]	Kula Cloth (optional): For the ladies, many female guides like to carry a Kula cloth while climbing for pee breaks as a pee cloth instead of using toilet paper and to avoid not wiping. And, it’s always fun to support a local female-owned business in the process! Check out Kula Cloth here
[  ]	Ear Plugs (optional but strongly recommended): Folks can snore, and the wind flapping your tent will often keep you awake. Cheap ones are fine, and there are plenty of great re-usable ones on the market. Ear plugs are highly recommended!
[  ]	Pocket Knife (optional): Can be useful for cutting moleskin, cheese and meats (if you packed those for lunch), etc. Just keep it light: a heavy multi-tool is NOT required.
[  ]	Battery Pack and Charging Cables (optional but recommended): A battery pack is nice for charging your phone, watch, etc. A 10,000mAh is a nice size that can charge a phone at least a couple times. Nitecore makes some great, lightweight products, as well as Anker. Don’t forget your charging cables for your various devices!
[  ]	Solar Panel (optional): A small solar panel can be nice for charging your phone, watch, and battery packs. Folks often buddy-up on this item with teammates to help split the load. Example: Goal Zero Nomad 10
[  ]	Camera (optional): If you’d like to bring a nice camera, be sure to keep the weight down and consider the added difficulty of carrying such equipment. A lightweight GoPro is great for higher-than-iPhone quality photos and videos.
[  ]	Kindle / Entertainment (optional): Some folks like to bring a reading device, but most guides simply download books, movies, TV shows, and music on their smartphones. This saves a lot of weight. Regardless of what you choose, we highly recommend bringing some form of entertainment for your time at camp. On Denali/McKinley, we spend a LOT of time in the tent. It gets too cold to hang out outside, so you will spend a decent amount of time each night, and on rest days or weather delays, in your tent. Being good at resting and not going crazy is a crucial expedition skill!
Food, Medical, and Toiletries
[  ]	15-20lbs of Personal Lunch Food: We provide breakfasts and dinners while on the mountain, but you need to bring your own lunch food for the expedition. 15-20 pounds is plenty. We do not make hot water for lunch, so do NOT bring meals or powders that require any hot water or cooking. Lunch will be eaten intermittently at breaks while climbing instead of during a formal lunch hour, so you won’t want anything that requires too much prep-time or takes a while to eat. We strongly recommend bringing some “real-food” and not just granola bars and gels. Guides love bringing salami and cheeses, bagels and cream cheese, jerky, sausages, crackers, chips, pretzels, etc. We also recommend some “quick-energy” foods such as candy, energy gummies, gels, etc. for fast options, and for higher on the mountain when you don’t want to carry as much weight. Again, it’s very cold on Denali/McKinley, so be sure that the snacks you bring will handle the cold. Your food will certainly freeze overnight, so don’t bring anything that gets destroyed if frozen. At altitude, people often lose their appetite, so bringing some snacks that you’ve enjoyed eating at high altitude is also essential! Plan out your ‘summit-day snacks’ and have those pre-packaged and ready to go so you don’t accidentally eat them before summit day. For more food advice, see our blog!
[  ]	Electrolyte Drink Mix: Guides all bring electrolytes to supplement their water on the glacier. It adds flavor and important electrolytes to your day! Be sure to bring flavors you enjoy. Some folks enjoy some caffeinated mixes as well.
[  ]	1-2 Rolls of Toilet Paper: We do NOT provide toilet paper up on the mountain, so you must bring your own! Two rolls, each placed in a separate gallon-ziploc bag, is plenty.
[  ]	Toothbrush: A lightweight and small toothbrush is recommended. We like the Aurelle Toob (sold at REI) as it allows you to store your toothpaste inside the toothbrush!
[  ]	Toothpaste: A travel-sized tube is plenty for the trip!
[  ]	Dental Floss: A small box of floss is plenty.
[  ]	Hand Sanitizer: A small (1-2oz) bottle of hand sanitizer is plenty.
[  ]	Sun Screen (SPF 30+): SPF 30+ Sunscreen is required. Experiment to figure out what brand you like! A 2-3oz tube is plenty. Some folks like to also bring a small rub-on stick of sunscreen, which can be used up high on when you don’t want to take your gloves off.
[  ]	SPF Lip Balm: Be sure to bring two to three tubes of SPF lip balm in the likely event that you lose one! This cannot be normal Chap-Stick or Aquaphor, it must have SPF rating to protect your lips from the sun.
[  ]	Med Kit: A very small personal med kit is necessary, but you don’t need too much! You should have the following: aspirin (or Tylenol); ibuprofen; antacid (Pepto Bismol, Rolaids); anti-diarrhea medication (Imodium); Band-Aids; athletic tape; moleskin, Second Skin or other blister pads. Everything else your guides will be carrying, so don’t go overboard! Do not forget any personal medications or products you might also need, such as contact lenses (bring glasses as a backup).
[  ]	REQUIRED Altitude Meds: The following medications are REQUIRED for this program. Each climber must have the following medications to participate on the program and your guides will check for them in Anchorage: Acetazolamide (Diamox) for acclimatization and treatment for Acute Mountain Sickness (125mg BID, 14 days) Nifedipine ER for pulmonary edema (30mg x 2 tablets) to be used in association with immediate descent in altitude Dexamethasone for cerebral edema (4mg x 6 tablets) to be used in association with immediate descent in altitude
[  ]	Optional Prescriptions: You might also consider bringing Azithromycin (‘Z-Pack’) for upper respiratory or GI infections, and asthma medication if you have any history of asthma.
[  ]	N95 Mask: Having one N95 mask is required for protecting yourself from illness, or the potential for volcanic eruptions depositing ash in the AK Range (yes, that has happened on the Kahiltna before!)
[  ]	Wet Wipes (optional): Folks often bring a few wet wipes for “showers” on nice weather days. However, do NOT bring an entire package of 30+ wipes, you will not need this many. Guides typically package 8-10 wipes inside a ziploc bag, and this is more than enough.
Travel to and from the Mountain
[  ]	Travel Duffel / Luggage: You’ll likely need a second duffel or luggage bag (in addition to your sled duffel) in order to transport all your gear to Anchorage. You should avoid using your climbing backpack if possible, as this can get damaged during transport.
[  ]	Small Backpack: This is for traveling through airports, and in Anchorage/Talkeetna.
[  ]	Travel Shirts: Having several shirts for travel and around Anchorage/Talkeetna are great, so you’re not wearing your mountain clothes before it’s necessary. Keep in mind, fly-on delays do happen in Talkeetna, so toss in a couple extra shirts just in case you end up spending more time in Talkeetna than expected.
[  ]	Travel Pants: A couple pairs of travel pants are fine. We recommend bringing at least one pair of jeans/work pants, as you will be kneeling on the ground and working with gear/sleds/tents a lot in Talkeetna!
[  ]	Travel Underwear / Socks / Bras / Etc: Don’t forget to pack some travel socks, underwear, bras, etc. for your time on dry land. Again, delays do happen, so be sure to pack a few extra pairs just in case!
[  ]	Town Hoody / Jacket: It can be chilly in Anchorage/Talkeetna, especially for the early trips. We recommend bringing one hoody or a jacket for around town.
[  ]	Comfortable Town Shoes: You’re going to want to hop out of your mountain boots ASAP when you land back in Talkeetna! Bring a pair of comfortable shoes for traveling and around Anchorage/Talkeetna, which will be stored in our storage unit during the expedition. It can be very muddy in Talkeetna, so don’t bring a pair you’d be afraid to get a little dirty!
[  ]	Travel Toiletries: Some extra toothpaste, toothbrush
[  ]	Flip-Flops or Sandals (optional): Nice for around the hotel pool, going to the river in Talkeetna, and for lounging at the hotels. Also nice to have in Talkeetna if the weather is nice!
[  ]	Insect Repellant (optional): There can be a lot of mosquitos in Talkeetna. Not necessary at all on the mountain!

Crampon/8000m Boot Compatibility Continued

There are two models of the La Sportiva CUBE (which is now a past-season boot):

1. CUBE S --- does NOT have the tech ski binding insert in the toe
2. CUBE --- WITH the tech ski binding toe inserts.

IMG Denali recommends the Mons Cube S without the ski tech binding toes. Olympus Mons Cube owners (of either type) must use Petzl Vasak crampons with the LeverLock heel piece, and the metal toe bail with Mons Cube S boots. The LeverLock version comes with both a plastic front piece and a metal wire, you should use the metal wire. The plastic white toe piece will not work with Olympus Mons Cube S boots. Test the compatibility before you get to Alaska!

Black Diamond and Grivel Crampons will not work well with Cube and Cube S boots.

Notes on Gear for Denali/McKinley

Acquire all of your equipment well in advance. Pack up your pack completely and weigh it. If it weighs more than 50 lbs go back through all of your equipment with a fine-toothed comb. Start by eliminating unnecessary luxuries. Bring a compact camera instead of a bulky SLR. Weigh your personal food and eliminate anything over 15 lbs. Check over your clothing for redundancy. You will probably want to bring two lightweight tops, one to change halfway through the trip, but nothing extra. Eliminate gizmos that you threw in just because you thought they might be useful. We don't all need Leatherman tools, extensive repair kits and group sized first aid kits. Just bring the items you are likely to need yourself: a small pocket knife, a compact first aid kit with blister treatment, a roll of tape and the medications that you normally use. There will be a group repair kit, tools and a larger first aid kit. Don't bring any extra toiletries other than toilet paper, toothbrush, a small tube of toothpaste, and maybe some baby wipes.

Pack and repack your gear several times and have a place for everything. Keep your stuff sacks to a minimum and buy them in different colors so that you can easily identify the right bag in your pack. Hint: black is not easy to identify in the depths of your pack. One large sack is recommended for all clothing, one smaller bag for gloves and hats, and one medium bag for food. Keep it simple. Go out on a number of training hikes with your full pack so that you become familiar with the heavy load and retrieving articles from it efficiently.

Keep in mind that in addition to your personal gear you will be issued about 50 lbs. of group gear at the start. It will come in all shapes and sizes, so you must be prepared to fit it in your pack and sled.

There are three items that you must not skimp on: your climbing boots, your sleeping bag and your down parka. These will get you up and down the mountain safely.

The best boots are the ones that are very warm and fit your feet the best. Try on as many different brands as possible, and when in doubt between sizes, go for the bigger one! Often you can upgrade your old boot by purchasing a new liner, such as the appropriately named Intuition Denali. This liner can be heat molded to your foot and is quite comfortable and very warm. Feet tend to swell at higher altitudes so bumping your boot fit up at least a half size is a good idea. Again, when in doubt between sizes, get the bigger one and add a thicker insole if you need to take up room.

Only you can judge how warmly you sleep at night. Bring a sleeping bag that will guarantee you a warm night's sleep. Some climbers like to use a wide cut bag so there is room to fit your inner boots, water bottles, etc. inside as well as your down parka if it really gets cold. A waterproof/breathable fabric covered down bag is the standard for expeditions and is the warmest and lightest way to go. Be wary of temperature ratings on bags. There is no industry standard at this time. The only true test is your own past experience. Many people do nicely in a -20°F bag, but if you are in doubt, go for the warmest bag available. -40°F is a bag that will keep you warm all the way up the mountain, especially in the early season.

Your down parka will be your best friend in camp. We don't usually climb in them, but when the temperature cools in the evening, it is the first thing to go on. At cold rest breaks during the climb you will want to throw it on to trap body heat and avoid chilling. For that reason, size your parka large enough to fit over all other layers that you might be wearing, including your outer shell. Finally, the best parkas come with attached hoods, not snap-on or zippered.

Acquire your equipment well in advance. Practice with it and use it out in the mountains. Train seriously for the expedition so that when you arrive at the start of the climb, you will be confident that you have done everything possible to prepare yourself mentally and physically. All that will remain is for you to enjoy yourself fully on one of the world's greatest climbs!