May 21, 2020

The COVID-19 virus has been a serious blow to the country and the world at large. Here at IMG we are waiting and planning for better times to come. Mt Rainier National Park has given us indication that opening for guided climbs may be a possibility later this summer. We are currently preparing a plan to operate on the mountain that includes social distancing, single person tents on the Muir/DC route and as always, low climber to guide ratios.

IMG has not been able to operate so far during the months of May and June. On June 1 we will announce if we are able to proceed with climbs in the month of July. We remain confident that safer times are on their way and we will be ready when we are given the green light to start climbing.

We hope this finds you and your families well and managing the best you can during these difficult times. Our guides and staff are hanging in there with you. We look forward to the time when we can safely join with fellow climbers on Mt Rainier and practice our craft once again.

For those of you scheduled during the month of July, we will send out an announcement on June 1 to let you know your status. For climbers in the months of August and September we’ll do the same thing. We will announce the decision the first of the month prior to the month you are climbing in. Here’s hoping to see some of you in the mountains again soon!

For those of you who were scheduled for May and June climbs this year, we’ll see you in 2021. Thank you for rescheduling with us!

George Dunn, IMG Partner

March 22, 2020

The Nisqually River flows approx 80 miles from its source at the Nisqually Glacier on the south side of Mt. Rainier all the way to Puget Sound. While the river today is running high and clear from the winter rain and snow, it will become more cloudy as glacial erosion grinds up the bedrock over the summer months. The river, owing its name to the Nisqually Tribe, provides power to 43,000 homes and is itself home to 10 native fish species.

Tahoma Creek, fed by both the Tahoma and South Tahoma Glaciers, and Kautz Creek are Nisqually River tributaries.

Tahoma Creek at the height of summer filled with glacial flour, July 2019 (Heather Garland)

While the Nisqually and Tahoma Glaciers are not one of the guided climbs on Mt. Rainier, the Kautz Glacier is. If you’ve already summited the mountain via the Emmons or the DC and are either an ice climber or have taken an approved ice climbing course, a guided Kautz climb may be just the goal you need right now. These days may feel like they are moving at a glacial pace, but eventually we will all be back out adventuring in the mountains. Perhaps with a little more knowledge about how the creeks and rivers that flow from Mt. Rainier change with the seasons.

We are scheduled to guide the Kautz on the follow dates:

Kautz Summit Climbs

4½ Day Kautz
May 30 – June 3, 2020
June 8-12, 2020
June 20-24, 2020 (FULL)

5½ Day Kautz
June 28 – July 3, 2020 (one spot open)
July 10-15, 2020
July 19-24, 2020 (FULL)
August 1-6, 2020

IMG climbers in the Kautz ice chute, June 2019 (Jonathan Schrock)

What’s the difference between the two? There is more snow on the Kautz ice chute in the early season, making it a steep climb on snow. As the summer progresses, the snow melts during the day and re-freezes overnight turning the snow to glacier ice and making the chute more technical. We build in an extra day of training for the mid-season climbs.

What does it take? At a minimum, climbers must have a prior summit of Mt. Rainier or similar peak, prior ice climbing experience, and the ability to move confidently and safely in crampons, at altitude, with a 50+lb pack, as part of a rope team, on 30 to 50 degree terrain.

Email office@mountainguides.com for more info on how the application process is currently being handled and submit your application with climbing resume for review.

Heather Garland