2021 Mt Rainier Season Kick Off

February 3, 2021

: IMG Guide Jay Lyons contemplates Mt Rainier

: A Denali Prep Seminar team practices dragging gear via sled

The summer Mt Rainier season is coming up fast! We’re busy at IMG HQ preparing to get our first Mt Rainier trip of 2021 in to the field this weekend. The sleds have been organized, the snowshoes arranged, and our team is ready for a week full of learning some of the most important skills that are key to success on Denali. Many people reach out asking about which boots are right for which trips, and we always direct them to this comprehensive article written by our very own Porter McMichael. If you’re unsure of which boot is best for which trip, this is the place to start.

Even with summer right around the corner, it is very much still winter and wintry conditions are expected to continue for some time yet. It’s not too late to get out into the snow! Are you thinking of climbing Denali? Come join us on our Mt Rainier Denali Prep Seminar on Mount Rainier. We’ve added dates and still have availability, but it’s going quick. Are you wanting to develop your backcountry ski/avalanche skills? Come join us for one of our AIARE Level 1 courses this spring, perfect prep for some Pacific North West Spring skiing.

Mt Rainier Denali Prep Seminar

Mar 6-12 (1 spot remaining)

Mar 20-26 (Just added)

AIARE Level 1

Feb 26-28 (2 spots remaining)

Mar 12-14

Happy Climbing

-The IMG Team

IMG Everest 2021 Base Camp Reserved

December 17, 2020

IMG EBC 2021 with PK (Pega Sherpa)

Great news from Everest Base Camp came in this weekend! IMG Guides Pega and PK Sherpa went to Everest Base Camp to reserve our site. PK and Pega reported excellent conditions around our campsite and there are two clean water sources on the backside. They team spent the night in Gorakshep last night.

IMG Senior Guide Phunuru Sherpa has already put our guide team together for this Spring and will be sending the advanced team to EBC soon. The advanced team will go to Base Camp to start the long and difficult task of carving out tent platforms and setting up tents. This is great news and we are happy to announce the 2021 Everest Season is underway!

: Reserving EBC Campsite (Pega Sherpa)

: Looking towards the Icefall from the 2021 EBC Campsite (Pega Sherpa)

Greg Vernovage

That’s A Wrap For 2020

December 30, 2020

Happy Holidays!

On one hand it’s hard to believe 2020 is over, on the other hand it’s been one of the longest years on record! Like most businesses, here at IMG, we took our bumps & bruises in 2020. We missed more countries & rescheduled more climbs than we care to count, but we’re still here and looking forward to 2021… and beyond!

On the bright side of 2020, we were able to run over 30 Rainier climbs via the Disappointment Cleaver Route and a lot of climbs of Mt. Baker & Mt. Shuksan. It was a huge effort by the guides to maintain our Covid-19 protocols, but in their truest of forms, they knocked it out of the park. We’re taking all that we learned in 2020 and will use it as the foundation for our climbs in 2021. As such, we’ve got a full slate of programs scheduled for this winter in New England, Ouray, and on Mt. Rainier as well as spring climbs of Mt. Whitney, a full schedule of climbs and treks on Everest, a full summer of sold out climbs of Mt. Rainier, and an ever filling schedule of Mt. Baker, Mt. Shuksan and other climbs here in the PNW.

We fully recognize that things are still pretty fragile, and more fluid that we’d all like, but have a lot to be thankful for, and even more to look forward to.

See you in the mountains!

IMG Team

New height for Everest!

December 12, 2020

Mount Everest from the summit of Lhotse (Phunuru Sherpa)

China and Nepal share the summit of Mt Everest and have agreed to revised elevation. A group of Chinese surveyors and climbers climbed the north side in the spring 2020 season and have released their new height as 8,848.86m (29,032 ft). This is about halfway between the 1954 Survey of India calculation of 8,848m (29,028 ft) and the slightly greater height of 8,850m (29,035 ft) determined in 1999 by the National Geographic Society and Boston’s Museum of Science. It’s great news that Everest did not shrink too much after the 2015 earthquake, as some had feared. It’s still the world’s highest!

Congratulations to all of the climbers who have summited this beautiful mountain.

We are super motivated as we look forward to returning to Nepal and preparing for Everest 2021!

Join IMG On Mt. Rainier This Winter

October 23, 2020

An IMG Team taking it all in (Dave Coon)

While the bulk of summer season on Mt. Rainier is sold out, we still have availability on some of our winter Avalanche & Denali Prep Courses.

AIARE Avalanche Level 1 – Whether you are new to exploring the mountains during the winter or want to freshen up on your snow and avalanche skills, you’ll find topics covered in this course tailored to the backcountry recreationist. This curriculum meets and exceeds all guidelines put forth by the American Avalanche Association’s Education Committee for an Avalanche Level 1 course.

Mt Rainier (meeting at IMG headquarters in Ashford, WA):
December 18-20, 2020
January 1-3, 2021

Crystal Mountain (meeting at the Crystal Mountain Fire Hall):
January 22-24, 2021
February 12-14, 2021
February 26-28, 2021
March 12-14, 2021

Avalanche Rescue Couse – AIARE Avalanche Rescue is a one-day course that focuses on the basics of companion rescue for new students. Returning participants will expand their skill set with advanced topics and realistic scenario practice to help improve their skills. This program is intended to be retaken every other year or so to keep up on best practices in rescue techniques and gear. The Avalanche Rescue Course is a prerequisite of the AIARE Level 2 Course. Each student will receive professional coaching on their rescue skills as well as a rescue card acknowledging the completion date.

Meeting at IMG headquarters in Ashford, WA:
January 4, 2021

Meeting at the Crystal Mountain Ski Area:
January 25, 2021

Denali Expedition Seminar – Training focused on preparation for an IMG expedition to Denali or other high altitude peaks. Get the best possible training necessary to participate in an expedition to Denali including ice axe arrest, cramponing, sled rigging and hauling, expedition camps, snow shelters, snow anchors, crevasse rescue and fixed ropes. This program is equally useful for those looking for a good introductory winter training seminar. February, March and April only.

February 6-12, 2021 (2 spots open)
March 6-12, 2021 (4 spots open)
April 3-9, 2021 (1 spot open)

2021 Rainier Dates Released

October 13, 2020

One of our 2020 Teams on the summit of Mt. Rainier. (Justin Merle)

After an abbreviated 2020 season on Mt. Rainier, we’re happy to announce a full slate of programs in 2021!

6.5 Day Denali Prep Seminar – This program is a perfect introduction to extreme cold weather mountaineering and a prerequisite for a guided Denali Expedition. Learn crevasse rescue, sled rigging & hauling, expedition camping, navigation, fixed line travel, and more.

AIARE Avalanche Level I – This three day course is an introduction to the skills a backcountry recreationist needs to safely travel in avalanche terrain. Topics covered include identifying avalanche terrain, understanding snowpack basics, developing a plan, team decision making, and fundamentals of companion rescue.

AIARE Avalanche Rescue Course – This one day program is intended to be retaken every other year to maintain and hone your companion rescue skills. New students can focus on the basics of companion rescue while returning students expand their skills with advanced topics. All students receive in-depth training and feedback during realistic scenario practice. The Avalanche Rescue Course is a prerequisite of the AIARE Level 2 Course.

3.5 Day Disappointment Cleaver Route – This program is an enjoyable way to climb Rainier and is also a great introduction to mountaineering. Learn to climb safely and efficiently with expert instruction on cramponing, ice axe arrest, and rope team travel.

Women’s 3.5 Day Disappointment Cleaver Climb – If you’re a woman looking to climb and make connections with other strong women, don’t miss this program. Led by an all-female guide crew, this program follows the same itinerary as our other 3.5 Day DC Climbs.

4.5 Day Emmons Route – Excellent for the strong beginner to intermediate climber with a very high level of fitness and stamina. The Emmons climb offers a more remote, aesthetic experience on a quieter side of the mountain. Expedition-style climbing requires a heavier pack than our standard DC program, but it’s well worth the effort.

Kautz Route – This exciting intermediate route includes ascending a 30-50 degree snow/ice chute. Because the Kautz is more demanding and technical than the standard routes, prerequisites include a prior summit of Mt. Rainier via the DC or Emmons (or a comparable glacier climb approved by IMG). Come test your mettle on this challenging route off the beaten path.

Advanced climbers will enjoy the challenge of more technical programs such as the Fuhrer Finger and Liberty Ridge.

Additional training programs focusing on skills development include our, Glacier Skills Seminar, Mountaineering Day School, Advanced Mountaineering Day School, and Crevasse Rescue School.

Check out our Rainier FAQ and click here to register!

Important details on the application process:

As you scan the dates please note that the already limited availability is due to the rescheduling of our 2020 climbers who had their climbs cancelled due to Covid-19.
Please note that the only way to apply for a spot on a Mt. Rainier program is to submit a completed Rainier application form and application fee. Absolutely no reservations or holds will be taken by phone. No exceptions.
Each application is time-stamped and processed in the order in which it is received. List your available dates in order of preference and if you are climbing with one or more partners, you’ll want to include each other’s names in the space provided on the application. It is best to send your applications all together in one email.
All fees are non-refundable and non-transferable. We strongly advise that you purchase travel insurance that includes trip cancellation coverage to protect your investment in the event you need to cancel.

IMG Team

2020 Mt. Rainier Season Is Wrapped…2021 Dates Out Soon

September 30, 2020

: Late summer Mt. Rainier ready for a winter blanket of snow! (Anna HIcks)

: IMG Guide Anna Hicks carrying her fair share…and then some. (Nicole Sims)

: Camp Muir with some fresh snow from last week’s storm. (Anna Hicks)

: IMG Guide Nicole Sims with a loaded pack. (Anna HIcks)

We’re happy to report that the 2020 Mt. Rainier season is wrapped. Our final climb came off the mountain yesterday, and our Camp Muir Teardown Team (Rikki Dunn, Anna Hicks, Peter Dale, Nicole Sims, Dan Reithmuller & Jay Lyons) all descended today after two hard days of work battening down the hatches up at Camp Muir. The weather last week was less than ideal (read horrendous), thankfully the storm passed and high pressure rolled in for our final climb and teardown. It’s not often that the end of the season is celebrated with ice cream…but it felt appropriate in the 80 degree weather we’re having here in Ashford.

Tip of the cap to all of the guides who worked their tails off this summer (of all summers) keeping things mountain-safe and covid-safe! It was no small effort.

2021 Rainier dates will be released in a couple weeks. Stay tuned.

Tye Chapman

Smokey Mountains

September 11, 2020

: Wednesday morning from Camp Muir (Anna Hicks)

: Thursday afternoon from Camp Muir (Anna Hicks)

: Friday morning from Camp Muir (Anna Hicks)

As a guide service we don’t spend a lot of time in the Smokey Mountains…unfortunately this year things are a little different.

As the wildfires burn across the Western US, we’ve been lucky. Not only have the fires avoided the Ashford area, the smoke hasn’t been nearly as bad as the surrounding area. And as you’d imagine, things on the upper mountain are significantly better.

We’ll continue to monitor the air quality index and will adjust accordingly.

Tye Chapman

Mt. Rainier Rarely Disappoints

September 4, 2020

: Early morning climbing on the upper mountain. (Jonathan Schrock)

: Climbers on the descent from the summit of Mt. Rainier. (Jonathan Schrock)

: Hard to beat a sunrise on Mt. Rainier! (Jonathan Schrock)

Like most guides, IMG Guide Jonathan Schrock bounces around quite a bit. This week he was on Mt. Rainier for a couple climbs (and a couple of summits) and snapped a few beautiful photos too good not to share.

He’s since departed for Bend, OR, but will be back for a few more climbs in the PNW to round out the summer.

All is well on Mt. Rainier!

Tye Chapman

Rainier 2021 Update

August 26, 2020

: Sunrise summit (Jay Lyons)

: Rainier climbers on the upper mountain (Austin Shannon)

: The summit crater (Nickel Wood)

: Happy climbers on the summit of Mt. Rainier (Andy Polloczek)

As this climbing season cruises along, we’ve been hard at work behind the scenes planning for 2021. We will be pushing out some more information in the coming weeks. In the meantime, if you want to climb Mt. Rainier with IMG in 2021 be sure to sign-up for our e-newsletter.

Hope you can join us on Mt. Rainier next summer!

Tye Chapman

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