Archive for the ‘Vinson (Antarctica)’ Category

Not A Cloud In The Sky

January 15, 2013

This much is true: we had a fantastic day on top of Antarctica!

It was unusually warm the night before we took off for the summit and I awoke to another unusual phenomenon at High Camp on Vinson – not a cloud in the sky and zero wind. This was an easy decision, we had to climb.

We loaded up all of our cold weather gear that is a must when climbing in Antarctica, down pants and down jacket with goggles in the pack, just in case.

With no worry of it getting dark, we left a little later than a few other teams and took our time heading up.  Snow conditions on the route and summit ridge were perfect.  It’s a great feeling when you hit that summit ridge; you know you’re climbing and aree so close to your goal that you can’t help but put one foot in front of the other….you can taste it!

On the summit itself, there was not a breathe of wind and the view was for as far as the earth will allow.  Right as we pulled onto the summit we were greeted by a twin-otter flyby, so close that I could see the pilot snapping a few photos of  the team. What a perfect day.

We obviously climb to get to the top, but the overall journey and the group I’m with make the trip. This one was no different – it was a great trip with fun people, what a way to ring in another New Year.  This was my fourth New Years on the ice,  and it’s hasn’t disappointed once!

Enjoy the photos, or better yet, take your own next year!

Greg Vernovage

 

 

Weekend Update V.1

January 12, 2013

Here’s a quick update on what’s going on in South America…

The Plaza de Mulas camp on the descent (Photo: Tye Chapman)

On Aconcagua, Ty Gimenez and his team tagged the top this morning! The weather held nicely and it didn’t snow until they had already rolled back into camp.  7 of 8 made the top, and an excellent effort by all. They’ll head downhill to Plaza de Mulas tomorrow and will hit the trailhead on Monday.

Mike Hamill and his private Aconcagua team were shooting for Confluencia Camp tonight. They’re heading up a different route which puts them at Plaza de Mulas tomorrow night. If you’re doing the math, they’ll be there the same night as Ty and his crew. It’s a pretty cool feeling to walk into camp knowing you have friends waiting for you.

On the other side of the mountain is Peter Anderson and his crew. They haven’t checked in, but no news is good news, so we’re sure they’re just plugging along en route to Base Camp.

Down in Punta Arenas, Chile is Greg and a couple of his Vinson climbers; they’ve officially wrapped up and are all en route home with their summit!

Up in Ecuador is Phil and his team. They enjoyed the market in Otavalo today and a nice dinner in Old Town. They’ll head out to Pasochoa tomorrow for an acclimatization hike.  The weather has been good which makes everything easier.

And way up north (or south based on perspective) is Austin Shannon and Dustin Balderach and their Mexico Volcanoes team. They’re just getting settled in. Tomorrow they’ll load up and head out on their acclimatization hike near Ixta.

I think that covers all the bases…

Tye Chapman

Vinson Team Leaving Antarctica

January 11, 2013

Need a lift?

We got word from Greg this morning that the IL-76 had landed and they were about to board.

They are officially en route home.

Tye Chapman

South America Is The Place To Be

January 10, 2012

Peter & Josh's team a couple days ago in Mendoza. (Photo by waiter)

Let’s do a head count on who is where in South America…

IMG Guides Ty Gimenez, Peter Adams and Martin Lucero and their team are relaxing at Camp 2 on Aconcagua enjoying a rest day, a bit of an audible from their original plan, but well within bounds.  They’ll forgo a carry to High Camp (Peter and Martin carried some gear up there today) and instead move on up tomorrow.  Their summit day right now is slated for Saturday.

Lower on the mountain is Peter Anderson and Josh McDowell and their crew. I didn’t hear from Pete today, but they’re likely enjoying some fire-grilled steak at the first trekking camp after a nice walk in.

Back in Mendoza is Mike Hamill and his private Aconcagua crew. All gear arrived on schedule, permits are in hand, now it’s time for one more meal in Mendoza. They’ll head to Penitentes tomorrow.

And somewhere in, near or around Mendoza, is IMG Guide Emily Johnston. Emily is on a personal climb of Aconcagua with some friends. She’s a stealthy one, so we don’t know exactly where she is, but she’s got a radio with her so I imagine she’ll pop her head up at some point and say hi to the other guides on the mountain.

Way up north is Luke Reilly. Luke is on a bus in Arica, Chile at the moment (if you know Luke you know this is normal) en route to Santiago.  We may need to call him out of the bullpen to assist with Greg Vernovage’s Aconcagua program. We’ll know soon.

Quoting Luke:
“I´m ready to go.  I´m in Arica right now and will be in Santiago by Saturday or Sunday.  I´ll check my email, just let me know as I will have to rearrange a flight. I’m ready.”

Even further north in Ecuador, is Phil Ershler. Phil is awaiting his Ecuador Volcanoes team which is schedule to arrive later tonight. He makes a point to go down a couple days ahead of schedule to spend some time with long time friend and guide, Romulo Cardenas and his family.

And not officially in South America, though they wish they were, is our Vinson team. The flight didn’t leave Punta Arenas, Chile this morning due to some windy conditions so they’ll continue to hang tight.

There you have it, IMG is well represented in Chile and Argentina at the moment.

Tye Chapman

 

Vinson Team On Deck

January 9, 2013

IL-76

Greg called this afternoon to say that they’re on deck to catch a flight from Union Glacier, Antarctica back to Punta Arenas, Chile tomorrow morning.

They’re cautiously optimistic – it’s all determined by the weather at this point.

Greg will give us an update in the morning.

Tye Chapman

Up Down And All Around

January 8, 2013

Union Glacier Weatherport Tent in Antarctica. (Pat McCrann)

Up on Aconcagua – Ty, Martin, Peter and team are at C1 and will be making their carry today to C2.

Down on Aconcagua – Peter, Leandro, Josh and team will be heading to Penitentes, finishing up packing and getting ready to begin their approach tomorrow.

And, way down on Vinson Massif – Greg reports that they’re all back at the Union Glacier, waiting for flights north.  They’re living large.  ALE, our flight service, has a great base camp facility at the Union Glacier.  Big, comfortable tents, tables and chairs, 3 meals a day, toilets – pretty much everything could want.  And, it’s darn near impossible to beat the surroundings!

Phil Ershler

Revolving Door In South America

January 5, 2013

The route to Camp 1 on Aconcagua.

A few things to report from Argentina today.  First is that everyone from Josh Tapp’s group is now on their way home.  Josh arrives home tomorrow.  Leandro, one of our great Argentine guides who was working with Josh, is going through a final check of group gear for our next team, led by Peter Anderson, with Leandro and Josh McDowell.  That group left the States (and South Africa) today and will be rendezvousing in Mendoza tomorrow, the 6th.  IMG Senior Guide, Mike Hamill, leaves tomorrow for Mendoza. He’ll be climbing with a small, custom team via the Horcones Valley route now and then staying to climb with the final IMG team of the season in late January.

Up on the mountain itself, Ty Gimenez called in today.  Martin Lucero, Peter Adams and he are taking a rest day at base camp today and prepping for their carry to C1 tomorrow.  Weather is a bit unsettled but that’s actually just fine for a carry day.

Down further South, like all the way South, Greg Vernovage and his 5 successful Vinson climbers will be making their way to Vinson base camp today.  It’s a bit of a long walk but not terrible.  And, when you’ve all been to the summit, it’s amazing how easy that walk becomes.  Once at base camp Vinson, it’ll be a bit of a waiting game.  They’ll need reasonable weather to fly over to the Union Glacier camp and then good weather for the IL76 to come in, pick these guys up and get them back to Chile.  That could happen as early as the 6th.  Greg will stay in South America and head over to Mendoza.  He’ll be leading our January 20 departure on Aconcagua.  No rest for the wicked.

Phil Ershler

Vinson Team Summits!

January 4, 2013

The view from the summit. (Photo by Phil Ershler)

News is good today from the top of Vinson.  Greg Vernovage called in to let us know that the entire team was on the summit with perfect weather conditions. The weather was just too good to take a rest day. ‘About as good as it gets’  -  was Greg’s report.  They’re heading down to high camp now and will return all the way to Vinson base camp tomorrow.

Great news from the top of the bottom of the world!

Phil Ershler

Aconcagua & Vinson Updates

January 3, 2013

Tomorrow's goal for the Aconcagua crew.

Ty Gimenez called in from their second trekking camp today. Their fire-grilled steak last night gave them plenty of fuel today, though assistant guide, and our resident ‘organic foodie’, Peter Adams, thought it was a touch too salty. Let’s not feel too sorry for him.

In all seriousness, the group is moving strongly and shouldn’t have any issues with tomorrow’s push into Plaza Argentina, their Base Camp. Once in Base Camp, they’ll relax and enjoy a rest day on Saturday. We should hear from Tyler again tomorrow.

Greg also called in this afternoon. His team moved up to High Camp today without too much issue. They’ll take a rest day tomorrow to get their legs and lungs back and likely give it a go on Saturday…Wx permitting of course!

Tye Chapman

 

Vinson Team Making Good Progress

January 2, 2013

Looking up the headwall on the way to Camp 2 (High Camp). (Photo by Jason Tanguay)

Greg checked in from Antarctica again today – all continues to go well. Yesterday, the team enjoyed their rest day and celebrated the New Year with a Jello No-bake cheesecake. Today they carried to High Camp, no small feat. Well deserved quesadillas are on the menu tonight.

Can’t count the chickens just yet, but their weather forecast looks good for the next few days. Time will tell.

All is well on the ice.

Tye Chapman