September 25, 2011

Caption: Satellite weather photo for September 25, 2011 (courtesy Gov of Nepal Meteorological Forecasting Division)

September 23, 2011

Caption: Satellite weather photo for September 23, 2011 (courtesy Gov of Nepal Meteorological Forecasting Division)

Ang Jangbu reports that the Korean team fixed above Camp 3 today and went on to reach the summit of Cho Oyu, so that is good news, the route is open to the top!  Five IMG sherpas slept at Camp 1 last night and are carrying to Camp 3 today.  Walter, Heidi, Alois and Karma Rita are moving to Camp 1 today and will be shooting for the summit on the 26^th.  The rest of the IMG Cho Oyu team will move to Camp 1 tomorrow and will shoot to summit on the 27^th.

Mike Hamill, and the Shishapangma team, reports that they are also launching their summit bid, and are also shooting for the 26^th.  So, we’ll be watching the weather closely over the next few days.  Our IMG weather forecaster Michael Fagin, of www.everestweather.com, reports that right now there is a strong low pressure to the south, down in India, that continues to pump some moisture (and snow) up into the Himalayas.  However, this system is supposed to keep moving to the east over the next few days, and once it departs the area the weather looks to be improving (we hope!).

Eric Simonson

September 17, 2011

Left to right: Makalu, Lhotse, Everest, Cho Oyu from the Pang La pass, Tibet. (Photo by Eric Simonson)

Max, Lisa, Markus, Dan and Danuru are sleeping at Camp 2. They will sleep in a bit in the morning and come back down to ABC tomorrow. Walter, Alois, Heidi and Ang Pasang are at Camp 1. Karma Rita will leave ABC early and meet Walter’s team and climb to Camp 2 tomorrow with them and AP will drop down to ABC.

Craig is climbing with Steve, Caroline, Shawn, Patrick and Kumar with Sherpas Danuru I (Dawa), Mingma Dorje and Kancha Nuru. Their plan is to move to Camp 1 tomorrow on their Camp 2 rotation. Mingma Tenzing, Ang Karma and Phinjo Dorje will take a rest day tomorrow here at ABC, and carry to Camp 2 the next day.

It has been snowing down here at ABC this afternoon but it remained clear above Camp 1. The Tibetan/Chinese team carried fixing gear to Camp 2 today and fixed an additional line on the ice cliff.

I talked via sat phone to Mike Hamill at Shishapangma ABC and they are all doing well. The IMG Sherpas are carrying to Camp 2 tomorrow and then Kami and 2 Sherpas from one of the other teams plan to fix to Camp 3 day after tomorrow.

Regards,

Jangbu

September 10, 2011

Looking up from Camp 1. (Photo by Greg Vernovage)

Good reports from Tibet from IMG Guides Craig John and Mike Hamill overnight.

Hamill reports that the Shishapangma team is on their second of three rest days at Advanced Base Camp after their Camp 1 Rotation. The Sherpas are higer on the mountain working on the route to Camp 2. After a good rest they’ll make the move to C2.

Over on Cho Oyu Craig John reports that the team is finishing up their C1 rotation and will also make their move to C2 in a couple days.

All good things!

Tye Chapman

September 8, 2011

Cho Oyu– Members who spent night of the 6th came down to ABC safe and we celebrated Kumaran’s 27th birthday last night. Attached are couple of shots. Depending on weather, we plan to send the sherpa team to do a carry to camp 1 tomorrow.

Shishapangma– I talked to Mike Hamill on the sat phone last night, they were up at camp 1 spending the night. Mike said everyone on his team is doing well. They are headed back down to ABC today.

Jangbu

September 5, 2011

Team after Puja. (Photo by Ang Jangbu)

With their pujas behind them, it is time for the climbing to start!  Mike Hamill on Shishapangma and Ang Jangbu on Cho Oyu report that both teams are on essentially the same schedules. Today the sherpas from each team made it up to their respective Camp 1 sites, and got those camps put in.  Meanwhile, the climbers did some more acclimatization hiking and training, in preparation for moving up to Camp 1 in the next day or two.  On Shishapangma the route to Camp 1 is simple snow travel on the lower part of the glacier.  On Cho Oyu the climbers ascend a (normally) rocky slope leading up to the ridge crest.  However, Jangbu reports that there is a lot of snow this year below Camp 1, and today the Cho Oyu sherpas fixed 150 meters of rope below the campsite.

Eric Simonson

September 2, 2011

Cho Oyu towers above the ABC puja alter. (Photo by Ang Jangbu)

IMG leader Mike Hamill reports that the Shishapangma team is doing well up at Advanced Base Camp, with their final yak loads now having arrived.  Today Mike, Kami, and Panuru took a reconaissance hike up a ways towards Camp 1, and everyone will be hiking and/or relaxing tomorrow.  Over at Cho Oyu, Ang Jangbu reports that their final yak loads have also now arrived to ABC, and the Cho Oyu climbers are also doing acclimatization hiking and relaxing.  Tomorrow they plan to go up to Lake Camp (below Camp 1) for a day hike.

Both teams are doing their puja ceremonies on October 4, an auspicious day on the Tibetan calendar.  This is the traditional sherpa blessing ceremoney and the official start of the climbing.  Both groups they plan to start working on carrying to Camp 1 starting on Monday.  So far so good!

Eric Simonson

August 31, 2011

IMG guide Max Bunce reports that today the Cho Oyu climbers moved up to Interim Camp (known as IC) which is on the moraine of the Gyabrag Glacier at about 17,000 feet.   They are accompanied by the yaks, which are making a second roundtrip to ABC. Max says everyone is doing well and that they expect to make it to Advanced Base Camp tomorrow.

Over on Shishapangma, Mike Hamill reports that the team and their yaks made it all the way to Advanced Base Camp today (about 18,400 feet).  Everyone is doing well and they will be taking several days at ABC getting organized, before moving higher.

So far everything seems to be going well with the teams and the weather has been OK, with clear mornings and snow in the afternoons, which is a pretty typical pattern.  On both mountains, our IMG groups are ahead of the other climbers:  We are the only team on Shishapangma right now, and on Cho Oyu there is only one other small team.

Eric Simonson