Archive for the ‘Mt. Rainier’ Category

JanSport Teams Moving Strong

June 12, 2012

IMG Guide Eben Reckord reports that all is well on the NE side of Mt. Rainier. The team had a good climb to their first camp yesterday and are now en route to Camp Schurman (9500ft) where they’ll rest up this afternoon and this evening before their summit attempt in the morning.

Over on the south side of Mt. Rainier the DC team just finished up a nice breakfast at the Paradise Inn and are currently en route to Camp Muir (10,000ft) where they’ll spend the night before heading up to the Ingraham Flats tomorrow afternoon. If all goes as planned they’ll head for the top on Thursday morning.

A little bump in the weather today, but the forecast is calling for some better weather the rest of the week… time will tell.

Tye Chapman

JanSport Climb Kicks Off In Good Form

June 11, 2012

When the JanSport team pulled into the parking lot yesterday it marked the official start to the 40th JanSport Climb of Mt. Rainier. The hustle and bustle of the gear check, the rental department pillaging, and the general organized chaos that is the start to every climb quickly ensued. It always sorts itself out, as is did yesterday.

By 4:30 half the crew was loaded up and headed over to the Alpine Inn at Crystal Mountain to have dinner and stay the night before their climb via the Emmons Route.  Shortly thereafter, the Disappointment Cleaver Team loaded up and headed to the Wildberry for dinner before heading on up to the Paradise Inn for the night.

Today, the Emmons team is en route to Camp 1 while the DC team is at Paradise for a Mountain Day School. Their climb, led by George Dunn, will start tomorrow.

Tye Chapman

 

Juneuary Continues On Mt. Rainier

June 9, 2012

Mt. Rainier National Park Webcam (June 9, 2012)

Another rough weather pattern has settled on Mt. Rainier the past week or ten days bringing with it a good amount of snow and wind. Our team at Camp Muir hung tight overnight and is hunkered down for another night.They’re dug in, warm and relatively dry.

Down lower on the mountain is our first Kautz climb of the season, led by Max Bunce. They played it safe today and pulled up short of where they were going to camp.  Plenty to do: 1.) set up a bomber camp 2.) use the weather and surrounding terrain to train 3.) stay warm and dry – or as warm and dry as possible.

Despite the marginal weather, all is well on Mt. Rainier.

Tye Chapman

 

FAQ #37: What Boots Are Sufficient For Rainier?

June 7, 2012

What boots will you wear?

Every year “the boot question” comes up and every year we break the hearts of people who haven’t read the boot FAQ section when they show up here in May/June to climb Mt. Rainier in their shiny, brand new, ‘single boots’ and we tell them they can’t wear them. So, in the spirit of the new Rainier season and the low freezing levels this week we’ll revisit the most frequently asked question:

Here is IMG’s thinking:

For a first time climb of Mt. Rainier, you want to be as well prepared as possible. That means warm, waterproof boots. Double plastic boots provide the best possible warmth for your feet, they are completely waterproof, and they don’t constrict your toes or ankles when worn with crampons attached. First time climbers will do well to choose double plastic boots, and IMG makes this simple by offering them for rent. We also strongly recommend double plastic boots in early summer (May and June) for all participants and we REQUIRE them on winter programs.

There are some very warm, insulated, waterproof synthetic or leather single climbing boots on the market these days. If you own a pair of single climbing boots (generally less than ten years old) and have used them successfully in cold weather environments previously, then single boots will probably work for you on Mt. Rainier.

There are a number of manufacturers who make very good climbing boots these days.

Here are some of the requirements your boots must possess:

  • Must be fully rigid or ¾ rigid shank soled.
  • Must be factory treated waterproof leather or synthetic waterproof
  • Must have synthetic insulation
  • Must be crampon compatible

Read More…

Smooth Sailing On Mt. Rainier

May 29, 2012

IMG lead guide Jenni Fogle called in from the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning at 9:30am as they started back down from the summit. The team topped out earlier in the morning, with 100% success! The weather isn’t absolutely perfect but it is good enough to summit. Jenni reported high cirrus clouds overhead, a lower cloud layer below 8,000 feet, and 30 mph winds on the summit. A great day for a summit and it looks like our summit teams are back on track in reaching the top.

My congratulations to the entire team!

George Dunn

The Upper Mountain On Mt. Rainier Is Open…Again

May 28, 2012

We’ve seen some ups and downs (no pun intended) on Mt. Rainier this season! May started out with some mid-August type weather putting everybody is a great mood! But, that weather was quickly followed up with 3 feet of snow and some high winds reminding us that it was in fact May, not August.

It seems we’re back in the swing of things after yesterday’s descending climb tagged the top while “putting in the cleaver” along the way. Those guys, specifically IMG Guides Josh Tapp, Erica Engle, Sara Cohen and Liam O’Sullivan, along with some help from the other guide services, put in an absolute ton of work establishing the route making it ready to climb. Kudos to all those involved!

Right now, IMG Guide Jenni Fogle and here squad are at ‘The Flats’ and ready to climb tonight. The forecast doesn’t look too bad, but we won’t be certain until Jenni sticks her head out of the tent tonight around 1:00am!

Tye Chapman

2012 Rainier Season In Full Swing

May 16, 2012

Another Rainier season is here and already in full swing, but not without a little prep work beforehand.

In advance of our first climb we sent a crew up to Camp Muir to whip it into shape for the season.  On the to-do list was cleaning out the Gombu Hut, setting up the IMG Weatherport, carrying some loads up to The Flats and poking around on the upper mountain exploring the route. It was a busy week but the weather was absolutely making the work a little less painful.

Meanwhile, our first climb met for the first Half-Day Orientation of the season. IMG Guide Erica Engle, fresh off of Mt. Bona, tore through the climbers’ packs during the gear check, hopefully lightening their loads a little bit.  On Sunday, they put their training to the test and made their way up to Camp Muir in some unseasonably hot conditions.  On Monday ,they broke in The Flats camp at 11,000ft. And on Tuesday everybody’s hard work was rewarded when they became the first IMG team to summit…and in perfect conditions!

The seal to the 2012 Summit Board has officially been broken!

Tye Chapman

Mt. Rainier: Climb It. Now.

May 10, 2012

Mt. Rainier

You may have noticed this weekend’s current forecast – unbelievably perfect weather to kick off our first Mt. Rainier summit climb of the season.  If you’re tired of the same old barbecues and looking for something new and exciting to do, we still have room for 2 more climbers to tag along on the Mt. Rainier Classic 3.5 Day Summit Climb starting this Saturday, May 12-15.  Join our Guides – Erica, Nick, Austin and Josh for an adventure of a lifetime.  Call our office today to claim your spot on the roster!

Can’t make it this weekend?  Give us a call for updates on cancellations and available dates – (360)569-2609.

Might as well – it’s one more thing to scratch off the bucket list.

Becky Kjorvestad

Hey, Where’s Your Parka?

April 19, 2012

Richard Harvey put together this poem after our most recent Denali Prep Seminar on Mt. Rainier. Pretty cool stuff!

Enjoy the read.

Tye Chapman

Richard and Co. at The Flats on Mt. Rainier.

Hey, Where’s your Parka?
By Richard Harvey

As the moon came up and the sun went down
We eyed each other up and dreamt of the snow
Anxious but keen each went through their stuff
Name, rank and something interesting Tapp wanted to know

The guides stripped our bags of luxury and comfort
Even while the rental signature was still wet with ink
“Only take one pair of undies” he insisted without smiling
“When I’m finished with you, we’re all gonna stink”

So we crept in the bunkhouse and waited for dawn
The chill outside grew suddenly sharper
We hoped we were prepared but only time would tell
Some still received the drill “Hey, where’s your Parka?”

So we loaded the kit and took to the powder
The further we got the silence grew louder
To camp one we made haste grunting with sleds
Full of fuel “not with the food”, stoves, wands and who knows what chowder

That night we fed well on IMG’s marvels
We thought life is good, Denali’ll be easy
They set up two heads and the circus was pitched
It was then that the blue bags started to itch

Up the snowfield higher and higher
To Muir one step at a time
Breath getting shorter
We continued to climb

Ice Station Zebra came into view
Into the freezing pit we crawled
Unknowing that the next days
Even our toothpaste wouldn’t even get thawed

Patience slowly ebbed in that frozen wasteland
Zeus’s breath blew blizzards filling every crack and pit
We hunkered down and learnt of each others worlds
Some were sombre, others full of twisted wit

But we braved the elements and learnt the trade
Our masterful guides provided their best
Knots and anchors, crevasse rescue came next
And some of us received our first airborne arrests

On the nights when the wind blew white and relentless
Tapp’s steely eyes filled us with stories of terror and wonder
“On Denali Hexadecamethabiozanethanodiamox is the one you’ll need…”
We knew he was right when the Doctor silently agreed

Each day our clothes grew increasingly wet
No doubt these were the toughest guides we’d ever met
But the days of pain continued to get longer
And the howling winds grew hauntingly stronger

Day by day the toilet paper ran low
Some dreamt of frolicking ladies far below
During stories of Kashmir some tended feet beginning to swell
While the military guys made notes to take back to intel

And then Tapp gave the news
“Bring your clothes, every last one, we’re going for the top”
Adrenaline pumping, our nerves never sharper
We double checked out stuff “Hey, where’s your Parka?”

Predawn we crunched, traversing the ice
Except the more nervous, all silent as mice
But in the end the freezing, circling blizzard
And avalanche danger kicked our hopes in the gizzards

Back down we descended
Past Ingraham’s icy jaws and crevasses
The guides kept our spirits high with
Klemheists, Autoblocks and lashes

The Fahrenheit plummeted into the singles
Strangers came to give us their angles
We bonded playing cards late into the night
Citizen Cope warmed our hearts like a flicker of light

We knew things outside were getting bad
When Ershler was thwarted and our cookies turned back
So we hunkered down and shivered and shook
And wished that just one of us had bought a book

Then a hint of blue painted the zenith
We took to fixed lines and dug pits in the snow
And built a boys dream and all crammed in a snow cave
Smiling and happy, all dug with unbelievable gusto

And finally our bittersweet moment came to depart
To Paradise and showers and (thankfully) no more talk of South Park
We ran, slid and fell, just getting our way down
The guides skiing making us all look like clowns

As we spotted Tye we all started to grin
We knew that we’d made it and were close to the gin
Through the burgers, beers and our Copper Creek laughter
We could still here our leader’s echo calling
“Hey, where’s your Parka?”

Into The Cloud-Sea Far Below

April 4, 2012

With the Rainier season fast approaching I recently found myself re-reading Dee Molenaar’s The Challenge Of Rainier and I came across a poem written by former Chief Guide Clark Schurman that is worth sharing.

Into the cloud-sea far below
I, lonely, watched the red sun go,
Then turning, miracle of glad surprise,
Enchanted, saw a full moon rise.

———
Get those workouts in and we’ll see you this summer!

Tye Chapman