Archive for the ‘IMG News’ Category

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How To Prepare For The Knife

August 12, 2012

IMG Guide Jenni Fogle will be having some surgery in a couple weeks…In anticipation of the surgery she and fellow IMG Guide Luke Reilly split the country for some climbing in Ecuador.

How To Prepare For The Knife
By Jenni Fogle

Step One:   Grab your favorite climbing partner
Step Two:   Determine how many days you can both take off from work without being fired
Step Three:   Buy plane tickets
Step Four:   Choose maximum possible objectives for time available
Step Five:   Pack
Step Six:   Climb
Step Seven:   Repeat Step Six as many times as possible.

We arrived in Ecuador Thursday night and were on the trail to the Iliniza hut by Friday mid-day. **Got up at 3 a.m. to climb Iliniza Sur (see photos) and did a variation of the normal route (different start and lower part of the climb). We descended the normal route, headed back to Uyumbicho for the night and are heading toward Antisana this evening or tomorrow.

Jenni and Luke

[**Note: it's nice to be acclimatized after a summer on Rainier!]

See also: How To Make A Mean Chicken Salad

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Getting Acclimatized In Cusco

August 9, 2012

—–Original Message—–

From: Peter Anderson
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2012 2:21 PM
To: George Dunn
Subject: Machu Picchu Update

Machu Picchu Team at Plaza de Armas. (Peter Anderson)

Hey Geo,

Just checking in from Cusco! Our second group of Trekkers all arrived safely today and are settling into Cusco (which primarily means breathing hard and drinking plenty of coca tea to help our bodies adjust to nearly 11,000 ft). All of the luggage arrived, and everyone is excited to start our adventure. This photo is taken in Plaza de Armas where Walter, our Peruvian guide filled us in on some of the city’s history on our walk to lunch. Tonight we will have our trip briefing, some fine Peruvian food, and turn in early.

Talk to you soon,

Peter

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Roaming The Streets Of La Paz

August 7, 2012

All is well here, all bags and climbers accounted for. The team had a nice welcome dinner last night at Lo Comedie.  An early night to catch up on the travel and a morning of gear checks and duffel packing has us ready for Lake Titicaca and Copacabana tomorrow.   Today we went for a good walk around the city of La Paz including San Francisco Cathedral and the Witches Market.

The discussion slowly turned to being out of breath at times.  Hey, we take it slow around here for a few days.  The way we will take care of ourselves in the next few days with acclimatizing will set us up for our climbing.  As our tour came to an end, Nancy suggested pizza and a drink for dinner.  This is a great team.  Six pizzas later, we are ready for a good night sleep and out the door in the morning.

Greg Vernovage

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1982 Denali Summit Team Reunites On Rainier

July 30, 2012

Phil's 1982 Denali Summit Team reunited

30 years ago, I climbed Denali with the group shown here.  How quickly time passes.  Don Vandegriff, Jon Pelkey, Dennis Shields, Chris Shields, Phil Ershler, Dave Krohne, Sheryl Krohne and Jim Dallas – this was the team I took to Denali in June 1982.  Eight of us landed on the Kahiltna Glacier and we expected all eight to summit.  That’s just what happened.  Everyone was totally committed to being on the expedition and totally committed to their team members.  Pretty cool to watch a group share all the work and the thrill of reaching the summit.  Maybe even cooler to watch them all remain in contact and stay friends.  And really special when they all came to Mt. Rainier this past weekend and spend two days remembering and celebrating their success.  A pleasure to be a part of it.

Phil Ershler

 

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Outdoor Research Awarded AMGA Industry Award

July 26, 2012

Max & Eben sporting the OR Virtuoso & Treeline Beanie at Everest Base Camp.

We’re excited to report that our partners at Outdoor Research have been named the 2012 recipient of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Industry Award. We’ve been working with OR for 6 years now and we couldn’t be happier – these guys do it right. From head to toe our guides are proud be outfitted by Outdoor Research.

In March, just before our Everest season kicks off, the annual shipment of ‘guide gear’ arrives from Outdoor Research.  Year after year the guides take that gear over to Nepal and put it to the ultimate test. Every year it stands up to the test…and then some. Even locally here, in our collective backyard on Mt. Rainier, our guides continually push Outdoor Research gear to the limit, and it never disappoints.

What Dan, Alex, Christian and the rest of the OR team are doing is special, and we’re happy to support them.

Tye Chapman

Full AMGA Press Release below:

Salt Lake City, Utah – Outdoor Research (OR),  a leading, independent manufacturer of outdoor apparel and accessories, is the 2012 recipient of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Industry Award. AMGA Executive Director, Betsy Winter, will present the award to Dan Nordstrom, President; Alex Kutches, President; and Christian Folk, Grassroots Marketing Manager, at this year’s Outdoor Retailer Summer Market.

The AMGA Industry Award was created to recognize and honor those companies who have helped further the mission of the AMGA and grow the mountain guiding and climbing instructors professions by providing outstanding support, through scholarships, sponsorship, product and donations. As an AMGA Partner for the past 19 years, Outdoor Research is one of the longest-continuing supporters of the AMGA.  Additionally, OR has outfitted an untold number of guides and outdoor enthusiasts with reliable gear from head to foot, ensuring a quality experience in the mountains throughout the world.  The company works closely with the “IFMGA Test Team”, comprised primarily of AMGA team members.  These internationally certified guides utilize their expertise and knowledge to help Outdoor Research with product development by providing insight and feedback into the gear OR designs.

“I’m excited to present Outdoor Research this award,” says AMGA Executive Director, Betsy Winter. “Their significant and continued support of the AMGA highlights their commitment to professional mountain guides and climbing instructors in the United States.  We would not be the organization we are today without support from companies such as Outdoor Research.”

The award presentation will take place Friday, August 3 at 9:30 am at the Outdoor Research booth.

About the American Mountain Guides Association
For over 30 years, the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) has inspired an exceptional client experience as the premier source for training, credentials, resource stewardship and services for professional mountain guides and climbing instructors in the United States. A national non-profit, the AMGA is committed to enhancing the quality of outdoor services provided to the public, while serving as a resource for accessing and protecting the natural environment. The AMGA is our nation’s exclusive representative to the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA), the international governing body responsible for guiding standards and education around the world. For more information please visit www.amga.com .

About Outdoor Research
Outdoor Research® is Designed by Adventure®. We provide Innovation and Inspiration for the Relentless Adventurer. We develop innovative, functional, bomb-proof products that are beautiful in their simplicity. We are inclusive, inviting anyone who shares our passion to join our community. We’re independent, letting us strive to provide the best value to our customers, not shareholders. We are committed to our core sports: Alpinism, Ice Climbing, Hiking, Paddling, Trail Running, and Backcountry and Sidecountry skiing. We’re a member of the outdoor community, and we listen to, value and empower each other and our fellow adventurers. We’re growing, both as a company and as individuals. And we’re having fun along the way.

For more information about Outdoor Research, go to www.outdoorresearch.com, or contact Dave Simpson via e-mail or phone: 307.734.0505.

–

 

 

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Some Trekkers In Hot Water

July 20, 2012

Which way to the hot springs?

Kelly Ryan called to report that all is well in Peru. A nice day of trekking today brought the team to some proverbial crossroads.

Option A: Natural Hot Springs
Option B: Tough hike up the next pass.

It was a draw. No big deal, a few will hit the trail tomorrow while others hit the hot springs. Everybody wins!

Tye Chapman

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Denali Team Spends The 4th At 14,000ft

July 5, 2012

Coming into Denali's14000ft Camp.

IMG Senior Guide, Greg Vernovage, checked in yesterday from 14,000’ on Denali.  On Tuesday, the team made the move up to this camp which is the defector advanced base camp on Denali.  It’s a big basin underneath the West Buttress and West Rib.  Reasonably sheltered with lots of room to move around.  The NPS has a seasonal ranger presence here.

Greg said weather at 11,000’, their previous camp, was a bit pissy.  Clouds with some snow.  Their move around Windy Corner was a tad windy but, again, this team did well and handled the big move without any real issues.  The plan for yesterday was what we call a back carry.  They moved down from 14K with empty backs and pick up things which were cached a couple of days ago.  Extra food, more fuel and a handful of personal items generally makes up the cache.  Usually takes about an hour to get down to the cache. It’ll be buried deep for protection from annoying ravens so they’ll do a bit of digging, distribute the stuff, load up and walk back to 14,000’.  The day serves as an ‘active rest’ day.  They got a little exercise but didn’t likely burn too much energy.

They’ll have at least 4 nights at 14K so they’ll make sure the camp is secure.  Secure means good snow walls.

Greg reports that he’s got a strong crew and a crew who works well together.  That’s nice.  They wished all of us a Happy Fourth and I know from a fair amount of personal experience that 14,000’ is a pretty cool place to spend our country’s Independence Day.

Phil Ershler

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Kili Team Reaches Shira Plateau

June 28, 2012

Eben Reckord reports that the IMG Kili team has been enjoying fantastic weather.  Yesterday they had a nice hike up through the forest to the Machame Camp (just below 10,000’) and today they had gorgeous day hiking up to the Shira Camp (a little over 12,000’).  Everyone on the team is doing well and their Chagga team is doing a great job with the camps and meals.  Tomorrow the team will be heading for the Barranco Camp, at about 13,000 feet.  So far, so good!

Eric Simonson

Posted in IMG News, Kilimanjaro | Comments Off

Q & A With IMG Guide & Author Mike Hamill

May 23, 2012

IMG Guide Mike Hamill

How long have you been guiding?
I’ve been guiding for 12 years. After climbing rock and ice throughout New England and New York during college, I applied for a summer job guiding on Rainier shortly after graduating. One thing led to another and I began guiding year round leading both domestic and international expeditions. I’ve been fortunate to have many great opportunities to guide on the mountains of the Seven Summits over the past decade for International Mountain Guides and Alaska Mountaineering School.

How many times have you climbed each of the 7/8 summits?
I have climbed all of the original (Bass list) Seven Summits at least 4 times; some as many as 19 (Aconcagua) times.

Why did you write Climbing The Seven Summits?
When I began climbing on the Seven Summits I struggled to find accurate information on several of the climbs, and there was no one resource that compared and contrasted all of the climbs easily. A lot of clients and independent climbers mentioned they had the same problem. I felt that with my experience on these mountains I could create a guide book that filled this niche and promoted safe and environmentally responsible climbing, creating a better experience for all as these climbs become more popular.

What was the most challenging part of putting it together?
The most challenging part of putting a book like this together for me was spending so much time in front of a computer! Being a mountain guide I’m fortunate to be able to combine my passion for being in the mountains with work and even on my days off I’m happiest outside, so it was difficult choosing to pass up days climbing, skiing and fishing to write and edit. In the end, it was a great experience and education for me and I am glad to have had the opportunity to pursue a different type of goal. As Phil Ershler remarked after writing “Together on Top” with his wife Susan, it is more difficult to write a book about the Seven Summits than to climb them, and I would agree.

IMG, in particular the owners here at IMG, played a big role in your guiding career. How did this come about?
That couldn’t be more true; IMG guides, specifically the owners, have played a big role in my guiding career and influenced me immensely. First of all, without the opportunity to guide the Seven Summits I wouldn’t have been able to write this book! Furthermore, I have always had great respect for the owners as climbers, guides, and most importantly as first class people, and this is the reason I sought work with International Mountain Guides in the first place and continue to do so. I am inspired by what the owners have accomplished outside their business such as Eric Simonson’s well-known expeditions and books regarding the search for Mallory and Irvine, and Phil’s Book “Together on top”, among many other accomplishments. The IMG owners foster an environment of professionalism, hard work and achievement and lead by example and I have tried to emulate this.

Do you get excited about Everest each time you return? Why?
I have been asked this question many times about Everest and other peaks I guide on a regular basis. Climbing these mountains is never routine no matter how many times you have been up them. For no mountain is this more true than for Mt. Everest. On each expedition, factors such as the weather, the team, the political situation, objective hazards, among others, change and force you to continually adjust your “plan” and make every expedition unique. The mountains are very humbling and deserve great respect, especially Everest. Also, I really enjoy seeing friends from all over the world who converge each year on Everest and meeting new people and learning from their experiences.

Which of the 7/8 is your favorite? Why?
This is another question I get asked frequently. My favorite climb of the Seven Summits is probably Vinson Massif. It’s unlike any of the others because of it’s remoteness. It’s a committing feeling to be as isolated as we are while climbing Vinson, and also very freeing at the same time. There is no place like it on Earth. Antarctica is a very beautiful continent. Beyond the climb, the Russian Illysian cargo flight to and from the ice, and the time spent in Southern Chile make the experience very unique and enjoyable.

What’s next on the agenda?
I am currently on Everest in Nepal. After this climb I head to Alaska for a Denali expedition, which is also one of my favorite yearly pilgrimages. Then, off to Russia for an Elbrus expedition and some time spent guiding on Mt. Rainier. This fall I will be guiding Cho Oyu and Vinson Massif. I will also be at the Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake City this summer and the Banff Book Festival this fall so stop by and see me.

[Update: Mike is on his way back to Kathmandu after leading another successful Hybrid Everest Program.]

Who is the book for? 
We (myself and my editors at The Mountaineers Books) wanted to make the book useful to a wide variety of people. It has enough specific information to help climbers that have never attempted one of the Seven Summits begin to plan their climbs and it can serve as a useful resource for experienced climbers and guides that are new to the peaks. The guide has 125 full color photos as well as stories from top climbers, guides, and experts that experienced climbers and “armchair mountaineers” alike will find interesting. Even if climbing the Seven Summits isn’t in the cards, people can experience these impressive mountains through the eyes of the experts. Also, I have had a lot of interest in the book from people who have long since climbed all of the Seven Summits and are looking to reconnect with the mountains they spent so much time and effort scaling.

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IMG Guide Mike Hamill Releases New Book

May 23, 2012

Climbing the Seven Summits:
A Comprehensive Guide to the Continents’ Highest Peaks
By Mike Hamill, Foreword by Phil Ershler

Available soon on Amazon.com

A lot of people have climbed with IMG Guide Mike Hamill over the years, so naturally most people see him as a guide, climber and mountaineer, but he’s got one more title to add to his growing list, author. Mike has spent the last couple years compiling notes, photos, tips, and gps waypoints;  the result is a stunning 320pg. full-color book published by The Mountaineers Books.

“The amount of research, attention to detail and effort required to write this book is tough for even me to imagine.  And that’s in addition to the years of training, climbing and guiding that gave Mike the experience, knowledge and skill to write informatively and intelligently about the Seven Summits, all of which put Mike in a category all his own.  It’s been a pleasure to share experiences on many of the Seven with Mike and to know that we are in for a treat when Mike’s leading an expedition. ” -Phil Ershler, IMG Partner.

“Since our first trip together in 2003 (to the North Col) I have watched Mike travel the world and develop into a terrific high altitude mountain guide.  It is great to see someone continue to push their limits, and writing a book certainly fits that category. This is just one more step on the journey for Mike!” -Eric Simonson, IMG Partner.

“Mike is my kind of lead guide. He guides the world’s highest peaks year after year with skill and determination and somehow always manages to place his teams in the best possible situation come summit day. Underneath his calm and easygoing demeanor is a wealth of knowledge related to high mountains. Mike shares some of what he has learned in this new book, and I for one, am looking forward to reading it cover to cover.” -George Dunn, IMG Partner.

“Mike Hamill’s consummate coverage of the Seven Summits is far more studied and detailed than anything I could have ever written. I feel deeply indebted to him for enabling me to vividly recall, roughly three decades later, each climb and to relive the insightful incidents and many magical moments which Frank Wells and I experienced and shared. Mike’s extraordinary guide will definitely encourage more left-brained, objective realists than usual to participate in the Seven Summits—along with the many right-brained, dreamer adventurers who are naturally attracted to taking such giant leaps into the unknown.” —Dick Bass, first person to climb the Seven Summits.

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