Archive for the ‘Guide Features’ Category

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How To Make A Mean Chicken Salad

February 16, 2012

IMG Guides Jenni Fogle and Luke Reilly recently headed to Ecuador to tackle some personal climbing objectives. They had a great time and checked off Carihuairazo, Cayambe and El Altar off their lists.  Jenni is now back stateside while Luke is at Camp 2 with our final Aconcagua team of the season.

Below are some thoughts on how to keep your sanity, keep your friends and make a mean Chicken Salad.

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How To Make Chicken Salad Out Of Chicken S#@T
By Jenni Fogle

There is always climbing to be found when you are willing to seek it out. This often means traveling great distances, venturing into the unknown, and being willing to just get out there and see what happens. To quote my current climbing partner and fellow IMG Guide Luke Reilly, sometimes this means trying to make “chicken salad out of chicken S&%T.”

Main Ingredients to a great Chicken Salad:

1. Respect for your climbing partner – If you find yourself in Ecuador, for example, in a 12×12 space in which to organize all your gear for 16 days of climbing, attempt private phone conversations via skype, sleep and shower, mutual respect is a necessity.

2. Patience – Things don’t always go according to plan or schedule. It is better to have a rough plan with some primary objectives and ¨go with the flow.¨ The guide book may say 1.5 hours by bus, but that can mean 3 hours in South America. And just because you think it´s reasonable to head out with donkeys at 1:30 on a Sunday afternoon to get to base camp doesn’t mean the donkey driver will agree.

3. Sense of Humor – When you decide it´s better to carry your 70 lb. packs yourself rather than wait until Monday for the donkeys, then find yourself literally up to your knees in mud, in the rain, for HOURS, all you can do is laugh and know things will get better.

4. Perspective – After wallowing in the mud for a few hours, you may come upon a suitable campsite. It may be pretty damp and obviously a common spot of the donkeys and horses to ‘camp’ too, but the fact that you might be able to start a fire if you are REALLY persistent, are able take off your muddy boots and look at the stars, heck – it´s paradise.

5. Focus – When everything you have with you is wet, and the weather continues to be questionable, stay focused and get out there. Go as far as you safely can. Who knows, the weather might clear at the perfect time, giving you the 21 hours you need to get to the summit of El Altar, the most beautiful mountain in Ecuador (in the opinion of the Chicken Salad chefs).

Combine all the ingredients and you just might have the best chicken salad you’ve ever had – spectacular views, successful climbs of Carihuairazo, Cayambe and El Altar in just over 2 weeks, priceless memories, lots of laughs, and two backpacks full of muddy, damp gear.

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It’s A Small World

February 3, 2012

Sign on Koh Phi Phi Island in Thailand. (Photo by Tye Chapman)

Phil gave a quick call from LAX this morning as he makes his way south to Mexico to climb Orizaba next week.  On his flight was IMG Guide Mike Hamill who is making his way to Argentina for another ascent of Aconcagua. The international terminals can be quite the social hub. Last fall I bumped in to IMG Guide Justin Merle in Korea after, without knowing, having been on the same flight from Bangkok 12 hours earlier.

Small world.

Tye Chapman

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From A Guide’s Perspective: Staying In Shape

January 25, 2012

Staying In Shape In The Off Season
By Jess Culver

Lets face it, it’s hard to stay in shape between seasons. It starts when the Halloween candy comes out, gets even worse come Thanksgiving, and hits its peak somewhere between Christmas and New Years. Then, the 1st of the years rolls around and you’re a few pounds guiltier & several pounds heavier. Finding the motivation to shed this weight can be tough; here are some tips I use between seasons.

For me, I know I have to be in good shape when the Rainier season opens, which is probably in the back of a lot of your minds as well. With that in mind, I’ve found that setting smaller goals between big goals really makes the time go by a lot quicker than the alternative: 4-5 days a week on the hamster wheel. I like to sign up for a few running races in the winter & spring.  I’ll start small, maybe a 5k, then work up to a 10k and eventually a half-marathon and then the full 26.2. There are countless programs out there that will set you up for success at these races; they work if you’re honest with yourself and stick to the program.  And don’t be intimidated by the people that run these races, they are all smiles and are super supportive to all shapes, sizes and speeds. Trust me, you’ll have a blast.

This year I completed some of my biggest races yet. I ran a local 30K trail run here in Montana. I drove over to Spokane, WA for my first ever marathon and finished in under 4 hours (goal achieved).  And knocked out another marathon a couple weeks ago in Arizona.

Remember: things don’t get easier; you just get better at them.

Jess Culver

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A Gathering Of Friends – And Everest Summits

December 22, 2011

Left to right: Mike Hamill (4x - 2008-2011), Justin Merle (4x - 2006, 2008-2010), Eric Simonson (1991), Tap Richards (2006), Phil Ershler (2x - 1984 & 2002), Heidi Richards (2006), Jason Edwards (2001), Ang Jangbu (1990), Eben Reckord (2010), George Dunn (1991), Greg Vernovage (2010). (Photo by Tye Chapman)

Last Thursday, in honor of Ang Jangbu being in the USA, we made some calls and invited a few folks over for a slice of pizza and a beer.

The result: a room filled with friends, family, loved ones as well as 11 IMG Guides representing 18 Everest summits. Pretty cool stuff!

Tye Chapman

 

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25 Great Years, Thanks To You!

December 21, 2011

25 Great Years...Thank You!

The years come and go so quickly anymore that we rarely get a chance to sit back and reflect on our past. And now, here we are with 25 years of it!

When we look back on the first days of IMG, we’re quick to notice that for the most part the mountains have stayed the same; it’s the business that surrounds them that has changed. A phone call and a handshake used to be  the norm, now it’s FedEx, release forms and digital statements. We laugh at, and appreciate, all the envelopes we stuffed & mailed and chuckle at the volume of faxes sent and received from one hotel or another to keep things flowing. And it’s hard not to smile when thinking of the stash of cash we were once forced to travel with to pay our in-country support staff or the occasional bribe to get things done.

Nowadays we have our fancy website, instant emails flying from one country to the next, guides buzzing from one mountain to the other, pdfs, blogs, facebook, credit cards, invoices, sat phones, cell phones, 3G, 4G, Wi-Fi, GPS, not to mention twitter and iphones. But the long and short of it is this: climbing is still climbing and without putting one foot in front of the other there’s no reason to blog, chat, or make calls. Sure the gear has come a long way but in the end it still boils down to doing your physical homework and being mentally prepared for whatever climb you’re up against.

We’ve had the opportunity to get to know a lot of climbers over the years and take pride in all the memories in which we’ve played a part. Be it one of the summits from Mt. Rainier last summer or guiding Dick Bass up one of the Seven Summits – they all play their part in IMG’s growing history.

We’ll promise to keep up with this whole inter web thing but will continue to concentrate on what matters most: safety, summits and fun. The rest tends to take care of itself.

Happy Holidays & here’s to another 25 years!

George, Eric, Phil & Paul

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A Different Kind Of Christmas Party

December 20, 2011

Our view at lunch. Not a bad day at the office.

Last Friday we did our best (sorry you couldn’t make it Becky & Clarissa) to close the doors for our annual Christmas Party. This year, instead of the typical egg nog, cookies and white elephant gifts, we opted to head over the Crystal Mountain for a company ski day.  Did I mention how much I love my job?

Moving on, we met up at 9:00am and after the obligatory ‘hellos’ and ‘nice to see yous’ we hit the slopes, some of us harder than others. The morning was spent skiing in small groups with our +1′s on a common denominator ski slope (Queens Run), but before long the ‘skiers’ in the group were itching for the steeper slopes and more challenging terrain.

Lunch was spent at the Summit House enjoying a spectacular view of Mt. Rainier.

Saturday was the typical day of soreness for the once a year skiers but the smiles the day before made it all worth it!

A sunny day skiing was a great way to start the Holiday Season!

Tye Chapman

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Ang Jangbu Visits IMG

December 14, 2011

Our good friend & Nepalese partner, Ang Jangbu Sherpa, is here in the US visiting some friends & family and taking care of a little business along the way. Today he spent the morning with Eric Simonson and Greg Vernovage going over some of the details for the upcoming Everest season.

Ang Jangbu, Greg Vernovage and Eric Simonson going over details for Everest 2012

Later this week a lot of our guides who have spent time with Jangbu over the years will get together to swap stories and share some memories. The world gets smaller everyday.

Tye Chapman

 

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What You Should Know About Altitude Sickness

November 30, 2011

What about altitude sickness? Should I worry?

We all know that worrying will get you nowhere, and knowledge is power…so let’s get down to what you need to know.

High altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE), high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) and acute mountain sickness (AMS) are three distinctly identified types of acute altitude illness, although they are actually on spectrum, with some grey area between them. AMS and HACE are more closely related than HAPE, but prevention and treatment is similar.

If you follow mountaineering at all, then you’ve surely heard terrible tales about HAPE and HACE.  If you seen the film ‘Vertical Limit’ you know that all high altitude climbers are dexamethasone crazed maniacs.  I know it’s hard to believe, but Hollywood’s representation of high altitude climbing, and altitude illness is not entirely accurate.  In reality AMS is much more common, and more benign than HACE or HAPE, when treated properly. Symptoms of AMS include headache, nausea, fatigue, difficulty sleeping, dizziness.

The best way to approach altitude illness, like any illness, is to prevent getting it in the first place.  Gradual ascent is a great way to give your body a chance to naturally adjust to higher altitudes. The altitude where you sleep is the most important piece of the puzzle, so the ‘climb high, sleep low’ strategy is an excellent, time tested plan of action.

Being in good shape for your climb will help out as well, so that extra time on the stair climber, bicycle, running up and down the stadium with a pack on during your lunch hour will pay off…keep it up.  The stronger you are, the less stressed your body will be.  I’ve never climbed with anyone who didn’t summit because they were too strong!

Rest and hydration also play a role. You want to be well hydrated, but not overhydrated. Just make sure that you’re drinking a reasonable amount of water, with some electrolyte replacement.

Even with excellent training, nutrition and hydration some people are just more prone to feel the effects of altitude.  In general, younger folks are more likely to have symptoms than older folks (another upside to aging!).  The first time I climbed Rainier I was 17, and I felt terrible…I ascended fast, I didn’t drink much water, and I hadn’t trained for it.  I just ‘bulldogged’ my way up. The summit was awesome, but I could have played my cards better.

The best way to treat any type of altitude illness is to descend. With mild to moderate AMS symptoms it’s OK to stay where you are until symptoms resolve, but you should never move up the mountain when you have significant symptoms. When in doubt, hang out! And consult an expert.  Acetazolamide (diamox) is the most commonly used medication for prevention and treatment of altitude illness (there are quite a few).  If you’ve had significant symptoms at altitude before, or think that you will, talk to your doctor and come up with a plan.

Emily Johnston

Don’t waste your energy worrying about altitude sickness…learn about it, prevent it, get in shape, then pick a mountain and go for it!  See you on top.

Emily Johnston

Emily Johnston is one of our lead guides at IMG. When not guiding mountains, she is a whitewater guide, pro patroller at Crystal Mountain Ski Area, and oh yes, an ER doc.

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From A Guide’s Perspective: Four Keys To A Successful Climb

November 11, 2011

Part 5 of our week long series “From A Guide’s Perspective”, IMG Guide Max Bunce talks about some key components to any successful outdoor adventure.

4 Keys to a Successful Climb
By Max Bunce

Max Bunce

1. Hydrate, Hydrate, Hydrate

Many times in my life I have failed on a climb almost certainly because I was dehydrated. Hydrating comes in three phases. Pre-hydrating, hydrating during the climb and post-hydrating. Pre-hydrating starts the night before, usually tapering down at night so that I am not up all night going to the bathroom. In the morning I start back up again with at least a liter before the climb starts. During a climb, I usually drink no more that 2 liters of water, keeping in mind that water is heavy and drinking takes time. You might be dehydrated by the end of the day, but something’s gotta give! Hydration bladders are nice because you can drink water more continuously but they don’t work in all situations. The number one reason not to use a bladder in the mountains is that they freeze. The second reason is that they seem to leak more often than a regular water bottle. During a classic rock climb called the Petit Grepon in Rocky Mountain National Park our party decided to bring most of our water in one 100 oz. bladder. Two pitches up, I felt a wetness on my back and to my dismay I found that our water drained into my backpack because the hose got pulled off. We climbed the rest of the day with no water causing us to move slower and make less than ideal decisions. We made it out safely but that little mistake could have cost us! Post climb is also a very important time to hydrate. Downing a liter in the 2 hours after the climb increases recovery and may make the difference for the next days climb. Remember beer is not a substitute for water but if you have to, drink light beer!

2. Eat!

Tell me if this sounds familiar? You have been hiking all day with friends or a loved one and sometime later in the day you get in a fight about the most trivial thing. This is almost certainly due to a lack of blood glucose. It happens to everyone and it is caused by burning through all your food energy. Simple solution, eat more! The problem is many people aren’t hungry so they don’t eat. As a guide this is one of our “red flags”. It’s a complete no brainer, if someone is not eating and they are burning calories, eventually they will crash. A good rule of thumb is to eat at every break. One common question is what to eat? The short answer is whatever you like best. I would go with foods that you eat on a regular basis, things you know that you like. Here, weight is less important than finding quality food that you like. Finally eating lots of high sugar food right after a climb is a good idea. It has been shown in many studies that eating or drinking so called “fast” carbohydrates immediately after exercise helps recovery. This is when I go to my favorite candy, sour patch kids.

3. Pace Yourself.

Pace often contributes to whether a climb is successful or not. Going too slow can cause a party to be out for too long and eventually either runout of energy or daylight. Going too fast can cause you to go “anaerobic” and burnout fast. Finding the happy medium is one of the hardest skills for a climber to master. In my experience folks seem to start out too fast and burn themselves out. Keep in mind that if you are doing a 3 day climb you need to keep a pace for three days not just one. One example of this is watching young, fit, independent climbers on Rainier run up to Muir on the first day, only to hit the wall on summit day and have all the guided teams pass them on the way to the summit.

4. Efficient Layering

Layering can be tricky. During a typical climb I am both extremely hot and very cold in the same day. The key to efficient layering is to pay attention to your surroundings so that you can “forecast” the weather for the next section of the climb. Let’s look at a few examples: 1. It has been bitterly cold before the sun comes up but you notice that there is no wind or clouds, obviously we would want to dress lighter leaving a rest break if the sun is about to hit you. 2. You have been climbing in a protected couloir and you are about to hit the ridge, you notice a plume of snow coming off the ridge due to wind. The smart move would be to layer up before you get to the ridge so that you don’t waste precious energy trying to layer up in the wind and cold. 3. Finally, on your descent you notice the sun just went down and it is getting colder. It would be wise to layer up right away before you get cold, saving yourself from getting cold in the first place. Keep in mind that from an energy standpoint it is a lot easier to stay warm than to warm yourself back up.

 

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From A Guide’s Perspective: Tricks Of The Trade

November 10, 2011

Part 4 of our week long series “From A Guide’s Perspective”, IMG Guide Greg Vernovage lays out a few simple but effective tricks of the trade.

Greg Vernovage

Tricks Of The Trade
By Greg Vernovage

I have been around a lot of guides over the years and what I’ve noticed is that we all have some things we do that help us keep our sanity and allow us to be more a little more comfortable in what can be an uncomfortable environment.  I’m no different, my tricks tend to focus on comfort, speed (read efficiency) and warmth.  As always, these ideas may not work for everyone but with enough time in the mountains, you’ll come up with some of your own.

My first recommendation to anybody is always based on food and water. We all know that we need to eat and drink at every break even if we’re not be hungry. A simple trick is to store your food and water in the same place in your pack every time you climb so it’s easy to find at every break. Often times I’ll put a snack in my pants pocket or the pockets of my puffy jacket so they’re easy to access at the breaks, and a touch easier to eat since they won’t be as frozen as some of your other food buried in your pack.

Another simple trick is to keep some food and water near you at night, sip on water after you go to the bathroom (hint: don’t confuse your water bottle and pee bottle) and have a few snacks handy as well.  You may wake up in the middle of the night hungry; if you’re hungry – eat!  Keep your stuff sack and water next to your at night so you won’t bother your tent mate as you rummage through your pack that’s conveniently outside the tent.  Remember, bring your favorite foods, if you don’t like something at sea level, you won’t eat it up there. Swedish Fish!

And a big one for me; change those socks!  After you have rolled into camp, worked hard all day and dug in, take a minute and put on a fresh pair of dry socks.  We rely on those feet so it’s in our best interest to take care of them.  You will feel refreshed and a little lighter on your feet.  You can put the socks you have been wearing all day in you jacket near your core and they will dry out for the morning.  They might stink a little but at least you will be comfortable.

And lastly, stay warm in camp. It is much easier to stay warm than it is to get warm. Put that extra layer on when you get to camp.  Keep stokin that fire with food and water and stay dry.

It’s the simple things.

Greg Vernovage

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