June 30, 2010
International Mountain Guides Buff in detail.
International Mountain Guides Buff
You asked for it… so here it is!
The Buff is one of the most functional pieces of clothing on any gear list. If you’re facing some windy conditions on “The Top of the Cleaver”, some harsh sun at the South Col or some dusty conditions on Aconcagua the Buff sure comes in handy.
Not required in the mountains, but darn close!
May 6, 2010
The short answer is yes.
The long answer is: if you have a good hat system (wool hat, balaclava, and a buff) you can get by without it on Mt. Rainier. But go anywhere else outside of Mt. Rainier (Aconcagua, Ecuador, Kili, Bona, Denali, etc.) and you’ll absolutely need a hood. My advice: buy it once and buy it right.
Over the years we’ve had a couple different guide issue “parkas” a.k.a.”puffys” and they’ve been great:
Outdoor Resarch Chaos: This is our rental parka and it’s been bombproof for us 3 years running now! Waterproof and synthetic fill = great for the Pacific Northwest climate. Check out the fancy IMG Custom Embroidery.
Outdoor Research Virtuoso – A great summer Rainier jacket. 650-fill down = light and warm! The fully insulated hood is a great touch. Our guides lived in this jacket last summer.
That’s all for now.
Tye Chapman
December 17, 2009
Nobody likes colds hands in the mountains (or anywhere else for that matter) so we had Phil Ershler explain his glove system… Having been on Denali over 30 times and Vinson (Antarctica) 15 times you might say Phil is a bit of a cold weather expert. Check out what he has to say about his glove system.
Tye Chapman
Operations Manager
November 19, 2009
IMG Partner Phil Ershler breaks down some layering options for the alpine environment. Check it out and compare it to what you’ve got in your pack.
Tye Chapman
Operations Manager
A: Mild altitude illness, also known as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), is not uncommon among people climbing Mt. Rainier. Typical symptoms tend to include headache, loss of appetite, nausea, shortness of breath, fatigue, restless sleep, and an increased heart rate and increased respiratory rate.
There are many things you can do to help prevent altitude illness. Hydrating during the climb is the most important and effective, but other effective techniques also include “pressure breathing,” using medications such as Diamox, and taking acclimatization hikes prior to your climb. Ibuprofen or aspirin can help with the headache and other symptoms of altitude illness.
Proper hydration while on an alpine climb can help you avoid cold injuries as well as prevent altitude illness. The more hydrated you are, the better you will feel at altitude and the faster you will acclimatize (adapt to higher altitude), because you will be able to assimilate more oxygen into your blood stream and deliver it throughout the body more efficiently. It is important to keep track of your fluid intake to make sure that you’re getting enough. We generally recommend that a person drink between 4 and 6 liters per day while climbing or training on Mt. Rainier. The general rule of thumb is that if your urine is clear and copious, then you are drinking enough. Electrolyte drink mixes will help replenish electrolytes lost from sweating and exertion. It is important, however, to remember to eat as well as drink during the day, both to maintain your energy levels and prevent hyponatremia. Drinking too much water without replacing electrolytes can make you hyponatremic (the flushing away of important electrolytes in the bloodstream due to excess water), which can be a life-threatening illness.
In addition to staying well hydrated, consider avoiding substances that act as diuretics or depressants. Refrain from alcohol, caffeine, nicotine, antihistamines, sleeping pills and other depressant drugs for a few days prior to and during your climb.
Another means of preventing altitude illness is pressure breathing, or purposeful hyperventilation. The more you force yourself to breath deeply and force out the old stale air in your lungs, the more you will rid your body of carbon dioxide and allow your body to take on more oxygen. This, combined with proper hydration will allow your body to transport more oxygen molecules around the body. This breathing technique is very effective and is employed by most successful high altitude mountaineers. IMG guides will teach you about pressure breathing during your climb.
Generally, just being fit will help you feel better at altitude. Being fit will also help you manage any symptoms of altitude illness without simultaneously struggling with the journey up the mountain. When possible, go for acclimatization hikes prior to the climb. Hike a local peak with some altitude (8,000 feet or higher) or consider coming out to Ashford a day or two before your climb with IMG and do a day hike up to Camp Muir (10,000ft) to log some time at altitude and start your body on the process of acclimatization.
Some medications have been shown to help prevent altitude illness. IMG does not recommend any specific medications. People tend to do fine with the moderate altitude of Mt. Rainier without any medications, especially if they are on one of our longer (3, 4, 5, and 6 day) programs. If considering medications for altitude illness, you should consult with your physician. Diamox (acetazolamide) can help prevent altitude illness and many climbers use it on high altitude expeditions around the world. It is usually not necessary on Mt. Rainier and is reserved for more extreme altitudes such as those found in the Himalayas and in South America. You need a prescription from a doctor to obtain Diamox so a consultation with an MD is necessary, and that is a good time to ask questions regarding its benefits and drawbacks, as there are several side effects that can affect one’s climb. If you do decide to take Diamox, we suggest starting with a small dose (125mg morning and evening) to minimize unpleasant symptoms (tingling, itching, excessive urination).
In the end, simply maintaining good hydration is the single most important thing you can do for yourself to avoid altitude illness.
For more information about AMS and altitude illnesses, please visit: www.princeton.edu/~oa/safety/altitude.html
Yup that's a ladder! (Photo by Jeremy Bruan)
The average pack weight for our Rainier climbers is roughly 35-40lbs for our 3.5 day climbs via Camp Muir and the Disappointment Cleaver and roughly 50-55lbs for our Emmons or Kautz Climbers. Below are a few techniques and tips that will help you shave some weight from your pack.
So you can see there are lots of ways to save weight when packing for your next climb. A lot of these come at a financial cost but others are simple and productive. Do your research and you’ll be just fine!
—
Tye Chapman
Operations Manager
On most of our climbs we take care of your breakfast and dinners so all you’re in charge of is providing your lunch snacks throughout the day. Keep in mind that there is typically no actual sit-down lunch hour, unless you’re on one of our treks where lunch is incorporated into the daily schedule.
On our climbs we’re typically eating throughout the day… We always say that lunch takes place when breakfast ends and ends when dinner is served. With this in mind you should bring foods that are easy to snack on and don’t require a lot of assembly.
Ok so here’s the deal – don’t spend a ton of time counting the calories but +/- 1500 calories of personal food per day is about average for snack intake. Bringing foods that you are familiar with and enjoy is where your focus should be. Remember just because you’re in the mountains doesn’t mean you have to eat pounds of trail mix and bag after bag of almonds. Mix it up and bring foods you know you’ll eat, even if the altitude has temporarily stolen your appetite. Oh yeah – spoil yourself – adults like candy too! Keep “summit day” in mind… you’ll need some food that is easy to access and doesn’t freeze to the point that it’s not edible.
Check out what some of our guides like to eat when climbing.
Pictured above: IMG guides Aaron Mainer (left) and Eben Reckord (right) cooking dinner in the Weatherport at Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier.
Tye Chapman
Operations Manager
We get this question a lot; and for good reason – your feet are pretty dang important to your survival on Mt. Rainier!
Below is our ‘boot policy’ for Mt. Rainier:
For a first time climb of Mt. Rainier, you want to be as well prepared as possible. That means warm, waterproof boots. Double plastic boots provide the best possible warmth for your feet, they are completely waterproof, and they don’t constrict your toes or ankles when worn with crampons attached. First time climbers will do well to choose double plastic boots, and IMG makes this simple by offering them for rent. We also strongly recommend double plastic boots in early summer (May and June) for all participants and we REQUIRE them on winter programs.
We’re happy to work with Asolo and rent the Evoluzione.
There are some very warm, insulated, waterproof synthetic or leather single climbing boots on the market these days. If you own a pair of single climbing boots (generally less than ten years old) and have used them successfully in cold weather environments previously, then single boots will probably work for you on Mt. Rainier.
Here are some of the requirements your boots must possess:
* Must be fully rigid or ¾ rigid shank soled.
* Must be factory treated waterproof leather or synthetic waterproof
* Must have synthetic insulation
* Must be crampon compatible
If you are thinking about purchasing any type of boot, remember, the BEST boot to buy is the one that fits your foot the best. Go to a good outfitter that has multiple models to try on. If you do not have a good climbing store near by, shop online through a knowledgeable climbing store with a good exchange policy. Ask for the store expert. If they do not have a boot fitting specialist, then go to another store. You will want to describe your foot, perhaps send in a tracing of it, describe the climbs you intend to use the boot on and be ready to order and return a couple of pair of boots in order to confirm the best possible fit. If you end up buying a boot that gives you blisters, get rid of it! Sell it on eBay and try again.
Summary:
When to use plastic boots:
* Early season (May and June) and winter
* If you are a First time climber, you should rent them.
* If you are a person with compromised circulation or a history of cold feet.
When to use single boots:
* If you own your own boots and have used them successfully in similar conditions to Mt. Rainier.
* During the peak summer season (July through September).
* If you have fit issues (very small, large, narrow or wide feet).
Late season suggestion:
If you are climbing in later season (after early August) it is often worth bringing a light pair of hiking or running shoes to wear on the first 2½ miles of the approach up to Pebble Creek. These are especially valuable on the way down if your feet are sore (or hot) in the double plastic boots.
Soft-shell pants are made of high-performance synthetic fabrics that are resistant to abrasions & tears. They hold up extremely well to mountain abuse. They are typically water-resistant (not water proof) which means they are breathable and shed light rain and snow and dry quickly when they get wet.
The question: Are they required or will my ski pants, fleece pants or other synthetic pants work? Should they be insulated?
The answer: No they are not required, but strongly encouraged. Fleece pants or a combination of other synthetic pants or ski pants will definitely work. The big differences being efficiency, comfort, breathability and weight. Soft-shell pants should not be insulated. The flexibility of wearing or not wearing long-underwear makes insulation unnecessary.
The bottom line is you will spend every minute of your climb in these pants so comfort is key. Soft-shell pants are a must have for any serious climber!
Our guides wear the Outdoor Research Exos Pants and love em!
Stay tuned for more gear questions answered…
-Tye