July 11, 2011
Vernovage called in this afternoon from Talkeetna – a welcome sight after 3 weeks on Denali!
All is well – they’ll dry, sort and repair gear, inhale a burger or 3 and eventually make their way to Anchorage and on home. Mission accomplished.
Well done team!
Tye Chapman
July 8, 2011
Heading down around Washburn's Thumb with big loads. (Photo by Michael Bellamy)
The descent has begun. I spoke with Greg around 3 pm (Alaska time) today, July 8. Gang was all back together and ready to head down from 14,000 ft. Goal is to camp either at 11,000 ft. or even keep going and make it to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna tonight at 7,800 ft. Then, it’s a meal, rehydrate, get some sleep and an early morning start for the landing strip. It’s best to move at night, assuming there’s a hard freeze. It’s safer and it’s easier traveling on a firm surface. With a little luck, the team could be in position to fly to Talkeetna about mid-morning on the 9th. Stars need to align to make that happen but not impossible. We’ll know soon.
Phil Ershler
July 7, 2011
About 6 pm Alaska time on July 7, Greg Vernovage and team stood on top of North America. It was a fine day for a climb. Congratulations to all! Three members chose to stay at 14,000 ft. Everyone will reunite tomorrow for the climb back down the route.
Figure 2 days down to base camp, weather permitting. Flights off the mountain also need good weather but it’ll happen. An evening to celebrate in Talkeetna and then it’s flight home.
We’ll keep everyone posted as they head down.
Phil Ershler
July 7, 2011
Heading towards denali pass. (Photo by Michael Bellamy)
You’ll know when we know.
Phil Ershler
July 5, 2011
Looking down at 14K Camp. (Photo by Michael Bellamy)
Greg Vernovage called in this morning from 14K on Denali. Weather has improved and the team is on their way to high camp. It’ll be a long day. This is maybe as important as the actual summit day. They need to get to high camp in good shape and ready for one more big day. Once they weigh the weather forecast and the see how everyone is feeling, the team will have to decide whether a rest day at high camp is appropriate or whether it’s time to climb. Sometimes is a function of “if the fish are running, it’s time to go fishing.” We likely won’t know until tomorrow but will post the news when available. Excitement levels are running high.
Phil Ershler
July 3, 2011
Weather at 14k Camp. (Photo by Michael Bellamy)
Weather day at 14,000 ft. for Greg and his team. Not terrible but not the right time to move up. I remember a saying that famous Alaskan bush pilot, Doug Geeting, had in his plane – “when in doubt, don’t”. Works with mountaineering as well as flying, I do believe.
Food, fuel and time are not an issue. The weather will improve and, when it does, the team will move to high camp at 17,200 ft.
Phil Ershler
July 2, 2011
Spoke with Greg Vernovage this afternoon, the 2nd, by sat phone. The group had a serious carry yesterday to Washburn’s Thumb, well up on the West Buttress. Another big milestone. They cached gear for their summit attempt there, at around 16,500 ft. Then, it was back down to 14,000 ft. Today was a rest day at 14K. They visited with several IMG guides who are also working with AMS on Denali. Mike Hamill and his one climber had summited the day before as had guides Aaron Mainer and Ty Gimenez and their one climber. Nice. Peter Anderson was leading a regular AMS West Buttress trip and he had also been to the summit the day before. Nice little get together and nice to see everyone so successful.
Washburn's Thumb. (Photo by Michael Bellamy)
Weather is a big ‘iffy’ right now. But, 14K is the absolute right place to be when waiting out some marginal weather. When you think about it, Denali is basically a week long approach and a 3 day climb. Greg’s team is in the perfect position. They’ve done the approach and they’ve made their carry up high. Now they wait for a break in the weather. When it clears, they need 1 day of good weather to get to high camp and another to summit. So now they wait patiently and pick their shot. The carry to Washburn’s Thumb is a tough day but everyone is doing well and still in the game. As Calvin Coolidge famously said, “persistence and determination are omnipotent”. The team needs a bit of both now and a bit of luck with the weather.
We’ll keep you posted.
Phil Ershler
June 30, 2011
The view from 14 camp towards the West Buttress (Photo by Peter Spagnoli)
Greg Vernovage and crew made a ‘back carry’ today, picking up their cache at 13,500’. That means that all members and all their group supplies are now at 14,000 ft., aka Genet Basin. Nice.
Tomorrow is a big day. They will take their first shot at the fixed ropes heading up to the West Buttress itself. Somewhere on the Buttress, they’ll make a cache. Here’s hoping the weather gods smile on them tomorrow.
Phil Ershler
June 29, 2011
Camp at 14,000 ft. with Mt. Hunter in the background. (Photo by Peter Spagnoli)
Spoke with Greg Vernovage this evening. The team moved into camp today at 14,000 ft. It’s often called Genet Basin. Nice part was that there were minimal winds around Windy Corner the day they carried and also today during the move. Tomorrow’s an easy day. The crew walks down for less than an hour to their 13,500 ft. cache. That gets dug up and carried back to the 14K camp. Sort of an ‘active rest’ day. Bottom line is that all is good.
We’ll likely hear from Greg again tomorrow and will keep everyone up to date with the news.
Phil Ershler
June 27, 2011
West Buttress Route
Greg Vernovage called in from 11,000ft on Denali where he and his team continue to wait on improving weather. High winds and heavy snowfall were reported on the upper mountain. IMG Guides Mike Hamill, Ty Gimenez & Aaron Mainer are up at 14K Camp hanging tight as well.
Everybody is doing fine; avoiding boredom is their biggest obstacle at the moment.
George Dunn