October 12, 2011

Sunrise over Everest, from summit of Cho Oyu. (Photo by Danuru Sherpa)

Congrats to IMG Leader Mike Hamill, Vanessa, Al, Danuru, and Karma Rita for a successful Cho Oyu climb.  They are the last team on the hill, literally, as all other expeditions have now departed the mountain.  Mike said the climbers were super strong and acclimatized after previously climbing Shishapangma, and they decided to start from Camp 2, since the weather was looking good. In fact, Mike said the conditions were excellent, the best of any of his five Cho Oyu summits.  They left Camp 2 at about 1am and reached the top a little before 8am, and were back to Camp 2 by 10am, which is a really fast time. After brewing up at Camp 2 and having a good rest, they continued their descent, and have now made it all the way down to ABC!  On the way down the group managed to get all the Camp 2 gear down to Camp 1.

This afternoon the sherpas started dismantling the ABC Camp, with the big dining tent coming down and gear getting packed into yak loads.  Mike and the climbers get a well-deserved rest and packing day tomorrow, and we have three Tibetan porters going back up to bring down the last loads from Camp 1  We also have 17 yaks that will be arriving at ABC tomorrow, and a jeep and truck ordered for the next day to meet the team at the trailhead.

October 10, 2011

IMG leader Mike Hamill, along with Vanessa, Al, Danuru and Karma Rita, left for Camp 1 this morning.  Their plan is to go to Camp 2 tomorrow and try for the summit on the 12th.   We are watching the jet stream closely; right now it is holding just to the north of the Himalayas.   If all goes according to plan, we have the yaks ordered for the 13th, which should get the team back to Kathmandu on the 15^th.

Eric Simonson

Forecast for Friday 10-14 showing the jet stream (in meters/second) moving back over the Nepal Himalaya.

October 8, 2011

The road from Base Camp to Interim Camp, with Cho Oyu in the background.

Mike Hamill called from Tingri to say that he, Al, and Vanessa were doing well and heading for Cho Oyu ABC today. They will drive by jeep to Interim Camp, and from there they have three yaks waiting to help move them up to ABC.   When the Cho Oyu expedition departed last week, we had them leave behind IMG Sherpas Danuru, Karma Rita, and cook Kaji.  Mike and his team will link up with the Sherpas, with the hope of a quick trip up Cho Oyu after their climb of Shishapangma.  We’ll keep our fingers crossed that the weather holds for them.

Eric Simonson

September 30, 2011

Packing up the yak loads. (Photo by Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Ang Jangbu reports that a number of teams attempted to summit today on Cho Oyu, but they hit deep snow above the Yellow Band, and turned back.  Max and the IMG climbers were at Camp 2 ready to go to Camp 3, but they have decided not to push their luck with the conditions, and turned back too, descending later today to ABC.  They have yaks scheduled to arrive tomorrow, so they are preparing to head home.  Mike Hamill and the Shishapangma climbers are at Camp 1, waiting to see if the conditions improve at all for them.  We’ll keep you posted.

Eric Simonson

September 29, 2011

Ang Jangbu reports that the teams are moving up now on Cho Oyu and Shishapangma.  On Cho Oyu, the IMG climbers moved up to Camp 2 today and so far everything is going well for them.  On Shishapangma, the Sherpas went to Camp 1 today to get that camp dug out, and the members are moving up tomorrow, with a plan to reach the summit on October 4.

Eric Simonson

ABC after the storm (Photo: Ang Jangbu)

September 27, 2011

The storms have finally moved to the east and now the skies are clear. However, we still have some strong winds. (Courtesy Gov of Nepal Meteorological Forecasting Division)

I spoke to IMG guides Mike Hamill on Shishapangma and Max Bunce on Cho Oyu.  The big snowstorm has ended, but it remains windy, so there is lots of snow getting scoured from the upper slopes.  The team members are waiting to see if the conditions improve.  Our forecast has the jet stream staying away for another week or so, so there may still be a window for climbers.

Some of the climbers (from both teams) headed back to Kathmandu today.  They had commitments back home and could not wait longer.  For the climbers who are remaining, we’ll be hoping the conditions stabilize soon.

Eric Simonson

September 25, 2011

Caption: Satellite weather photo for September 25, 2011 (courtesy Gov of Nepal Meteorological Forecasting Division)