Archive for the ‘Annapurna IV’ Category

Annapurna 4 Climbers Back In Kathmandu

May 16, 2012

Eben reports that the team survived their drive from Jomsom to Pohkara.  Sounds like a classic Nepal bus ride—bumpy and hairaising at times!  The team had a good dinner in Pohkara and enjoyed a beautiful sunset, but the day was not over. There was a “bandh” (strike) scheduled for tomorrow, which would cause more disruptions to travel, so the team decided to keep pushing on, and continued the drive to Kathmandu (on better roads)  where they have now safely arrived.

Good job, gang.  Sounds like a real adventure!

Eric Simonson

Annapurna 4 Climbers Get To Jomsom

May 15, 2012

Eben and the team crossed the Thorung La (17769ft / 5416m) today and descended to Muktinath, where they were able to send some nice A4 photos from the climb.  Then, they continued on to Jomsom.   Sounds like the flight schedules are disrupted, as predicted, so it’s going to be Plan B for the team tomorrow.  Phinjo has arranged seats on a bus to Beni and then we have arranged a van to meet them there for the ride on to Pohkara.

It should be a classic Nepal road trip!

Eric Simonson

 

Annapurna 4 Climbers Heading For Thorung La

May 14, 2012

Dhaulagiri (7th highest at 8167m) from near Muktinath (Charlotte Austin)

Eben called this morning to say they had made it to Manang yesterday, and that they enjoyed food, showers, and entertainment (they watched “Vertical Limit” last night).  Pasang Nuri and Sante are headed back down to Besisahar with gear/porters and today the Sherpas are meeting the climbers at Yak Kharka and then they are headed to Phedi. Then, tomorrow, they cross the Thorung La (5,416m/17,769ft; La means pass) and descend to Muktinath and Jomsom, with the hope of flying back to Pohkara on the 16th.  We had some sad news overnight — it sounds like one of the local Jomsom flights crashed today, so it is unclear how that event might affect the teams’ departure plans.   If necessary, they can depart Jomsom by vehicle (it is a very rough 12 hour drive or a 20 minute flight back to Pohkara).  Either way, they should be back to Pohkara in the next couple days.

Eric Simonson

Annapurna 4 Climbers Retreat

May 12, 2012

Annapurna 4 from near Humre

IMG guide Eben Reckord called on the sat phone from Camp 3 to say that they were hoping to get a pre-dawn start on their summit bid this morning, but that a snowstorm came in overnight.  So, they were electing to bail out from C3 instead.  Now Eben called back to say they made it down to Base camp, and were glad that they bailed, as it snowed hard all day during their retreat to BC.  Better safe than sorry—they did not want to get pinned down up there.

These guys have had a real Himalayan experience the last month, making their own route up a beautiful peak.  Now they are headed home via Thorung La trek and Jomson flight.  Their goals for tomorrow are hot showers, lots of food, and emailing friends and family in Manang.

Eric Simonson

Nepal Update – One Up, One Down

May 11, 2012

Eben Reckord reports that the A4 team moved up to Camp 3 yesterday (about 21,000) and the Sherpas were able to break out a trail further up the ridge during the afternoon.  The plan is to start about 11pm tonight and head for the summit.  Weather is looking good right now, and they are going to give it their best shot.

Over on Ama Dablam, Liam O’Sullivan reports that the team took a shot at the summit yesterday, but the mountain said “no”.  They got hit by snow, and also had some lightening.  Several members of the team got very close (within about 50 meters of the top) but they were unable to make the true summit.  The team has now descended to BC and everyone is doing well.

Eric Simonson

Ama Dablam & Annapurna 4 Climbers Moving Up!

May 9, 2012

IMG guide Eben Reckord reports from Annapurna 4 that the climbers made it up to Camp 1 today, while Thunang and Phinjo continued up to Camp 2.  Tomorrow the climbers go to Camp 2 and the Sherpas to Camp 3.

On Ama Dablam,  IMG guide Liam O’Sullivan reports that today the team moved up from Camp 1 to Camp 2, and if everything is going well, they may take a summit bid from there.

Eric Simonson

Annapurna 4 Climbers Return To Base Camp

May 5, 2012

Early morning sun hits Annapurna 2 (on left) and Annapurna 4 (on right) from A4 Base Camp (Craig John)

IMG guides Eben Reckord and  Emily Johnston report that the team descended today to Base Camp, after their run up towards Camp 3.  After spenidng their second night at Camp 2, they push up towards C3, then descended.  The sherpas did some more fixing above Camp 2, and everyone is now back down.  They are doing well, and are going to take a few rest days while they wait for a good forecast prior to their summit bids.

There was a big flood today on the south side of the Annapurna Range, apparently triggered by a Glacial Lake Outburst Flood (you can Google that up for more info).  This had nothing to do with our team.  There are hundreds of these glacial lakes in the Himalaya, and unfortunately, these GLOF events are not that uncommon.

Eric Simonson

Updates From Nepal

May 3, 2012

Great view of Everest from the top of Lobuche Peak. (Photo by IMG Guide Justin Merle)

IMG guide Liam O’Sullivan reports that the Ama Dablam  team had a good summit today on Lobuche Peak, and are now all back down to Base Camp.  Tomorrow they head for Pangboche, and from there, Ama Dablam Base Camp.  Way to go, team!

Elsewhere in Nepal, our IMG teams are staying  busy.  On Annapurna 4, IMG guide Eben Reckord reports that the team had a good trip up to Camp 2 (19,500 ft) today, and that they are all tucked into that camp now.  During the afternoon, Phinjo and Thunang pushed the route a bit further up towards Camp 3, and their hope is that tomorrow they can finish that next part of the route.  IMG guide Jenni Fogle and the Maida EBC trek team with are taking a detour on the way back down the valley, with a visit to Phortse village, the home of many of our Sherpas.

Eric Simonson

Annapurna IV Climbers Heading Up

May 2, 2012

Summit Ridge on Annapurna 4 (Photo by Mingma Dorje Sherpa)

IMG guides Eben Reckord and Emily Johnston report that the team is healthy, the weather is improving, and it’s time to go climbing again!  Hopefully their patience will be rewarded with a good rotation up high over the next few days.

Today the team climbed to Camp 1, and then Phinjo and Thunang continued on to up to Camp 2 with a load.  Up at C2, they dug out the camp, then blasted back down to Camp 1.  Tomorrow the plan is for everyone to move up to Camp 2 to sleep.  They are hoping to spend a couple nights up at Camp 2 for acclimatization, and get the route established up to Camp 3.

Eric Simonson

An Update From Nepal

April 30, 2012

On Everest, the Classic climbers and Lhotse climbers are wrapping up their first acclimatization rotation and are heading down to Base Camp.  Meanwhile, the Hybrid climbers have now moved back up to Camp 2, for their second rotation.  The Sherpa fixing team is getting close to reaching the South Col.  See the Everest Page for more info.

IMG guide Liam O’Sullivan and the Ama Dablam climbers are wrapping up a couple days of acclimatization at Everest Base Camp, and are ready to head back down to Lobuche Peak.  While at EBC they had the chance to get all rigged up and practice on the “ropes course” out on the  glacier.  Now they are looking forward to climbing Lobuche Peak, before heading over to Ama Dablam.

Down at Gorak Shep, IMG guide Jenni Fogle reports that the Maida Mountaineers custom trek team had a nice climb of Kala Pattar, and will be pulling into Everest Base Camp tomorrow.  Everyone is doing well, and they are having lots of fun.

At Annapurna 4, IMG guide Eben Reckord reports that they had more than a foot of snow up at Camp 1 overnight, so they are pulling the sherpas down and delaying their next rotation up the hill.  They will all be taking another rest day or two at Base Camp, to let the slopes stabilize higher up.

Eric Simonson