Archive for June, 2012

JanSport DC Team Spins At 12,800

June 14, 2012

Even George Dunn turns around from time to time! The group left the flats and after reaching the top of the cleaver they encountered some slopes they just weren’t comfortable with, so they stopped, took some photos and headed back to the Ingraham Flats. A great effort by all on a beautiful, cold & windy morning.

Both JanSport teams will convene on IMG here this afternoon before heading to The WellSpring Spa for a nice dinner, a couple drinks, and a well earned rest!

No summits this year, but all will make it home safely with 10 fingers and 10 toes!

Tye Chapman

JanSport Emmons Team Shutdown But Happy

June 13, 2012

DC Team having a Matrix moment

IMG Guide Eben Reckord called from Camp Schurman this morning to report that they were shutdown at roughly 12,500ft. They awoke to sustained winds nearing 30mph and they only increased as the team moved higher on the mountain. When they turned around the winds were estimated at ~60mph, just too stiff to climb. Everybody is back at camp, likely napping, lounging and swapping stories from previous outdoor adventures.

Just over a mile away (as the crow flies) is the DC Team, led by George Dunn, at the Ingraham Flats. They’re settling into their tents for their summit attempt tonight.  Relatively high winds are forecasted again so we’ll just wait and see how the team does…

More tomorrow.

Tye Chapman

 

 

JanSport Teams Moving Strong

June 12, 2012

IMG Guide Eben Reckord reports that all is well on the NE side of Mt. Rainier. The team had a good climb to their first camp yesterday and are now en route to Camp Schurman (9500ft) where they’ll rest up this afternoon and this evening before their summit attempt in the morning.

Over on the south side of Mt. Rainier the DC team just finished up a nice breakfast at the Paradise Inn and are currently en route to Camp Muir (10,000ft) where they’ll spend the night before heading up to the Ingraham Flats tomorrow afternoon. If all goes as planned they’ll head for the top on Thursday morning.

A little bump in the weather today, but the forecast is calling for some better weather the rest of the week… time will tell.

Tye Chapman

JanSport Climb Kicks Off In Good Form

June 11, 2012

When the JanSport team pulled into the parking lot yesterday it marked the official start to the 40th JanSport Climb of Mt. Rainier. The hustle and bustle of the gear check, the rental department pillaging, and the general organized chaos that is the start to every climb quickly ensued. It always sorts itself out, as is did yesterday.

By 4:30 half the crew was loaded up and headed over to the Alpine Inn at Crystal Mountain to have dinner and stay the night before their climb via the Emmons Route.  Shortly thereafter, the Disappointment Cleaver Team loaded up and headed to the Wildberry for dinner before heading on up to the Paradise Inn for the night.

Today, the Emmons team is en route to Camp 1 while the DC team is at Paradise for a Mountain Day School. Their climb, led by George Dunn, will start tomorrow.

Tye Chapman

 

Juneuary Continues On Mt. Rainier

June 9, 2012

Mt. Rainier National Park Webcam (June 9, 2012)

Another rough weather pattern has settled on Mt. Rainier the past week or ten days bringing with it a good amount of snow and wind. Our team at Camp Muir hung tight overnight and is hunkered down for another night.They’re dug in, warm and relatively dry.

Down lower on the mountain is our first Kautz climb of the season, led by Max Bunce. They played it safe today and pulled up short of where they were going to camp.  Plenty to do: 1.) set up a bomber camp 2.) use the weather and surrounding terrain to train 3.) stay warm and dry – or as warm and dry as possible.

Despite the marginal weather, all is well on Mt. Rainier.

Tye Chapman

 

FAQ #37: What Boots Are Sufficient For Rainier?

June 7, 2012

What boots will you wear?

Every year “the boot question” comes up and every year we break the hearts of people who haven’t read the boot FAQ section when they show up here in May/June to climb Mt. Rainier in their shiny, brand new, ‘single boots’ and we tell them they can’t wear them. So, in the spirit of the new Rainier season and the low freezing levels this week we’ll revisit the most frequently asked question:

Here is IMG’s thinking:

For a first time climb of Mt. Rainier, you want to be as well prepared as possible. That means warm, waterproof boots. Double plastic boots provide the best possible warmth for your feet, they are completely waterproof, and they don’t constrict your toes or ankles when worn with crampons attached. First time climbers will do well to choose double plastic boots, and IMG makes this simple by offering them for rent. We also strongly recommend double plastic boots in early summer (May and June) for all participants and we REQUIRE them on winter programs.

There are some very warm, insulated, waterproof synthetic or leather single climbing boots on the market these days. If you own a pair of single climbing boots (generally less than ten years old) and have used them successfully in cold weather environments previously, then single boots will probably work for you on Mt. Rainier.

There are a number of manufacturers who make very good climbing boots these days.

Here are some of the requirements your boots must possess:

  • Must be fully rigid or ¾ rigid shank soled.
  • Must be factory treated waterproof leather or synthetic waterproof
  • Must have synthetic insulation
  • Must be crampon compatible

Read More…

Logan Team Back Stateside

June 4, 2012


View Larger Map

IMG Guide Mark Allen and team made it down to the ‘landing strip’ on Mt. Logan last Friday and were flown off about an hour later by our good friend and Alaska bush pilot, Paul Claus.

All are safely back in the United States of America after battling the harsh conditions and brutally cold weather that Mt. Logan threw at them.  No summit, but a phenomenal effort by all!

Tye Chapman