Archive for April, 2009

Mt. Rainier ‘Denali Seminar’ Summits!

April 30, 2009

Lead Guide John Race called in from the the summit of Mt. Rainier at about noon today!The group set out on a 6-day seminar starting last Sunday. After a night down low (near Panorama Point) the group cut loose and headed up to Muir on Monday. Tuesday and Wednesday were scheduled training days.

After evaluating the weather and snow conditions yesterday Race and fellow guide Eric Remza decided to give the Ingraham Direct a shot. The Ingraham Direct is a great early season route but typically melts out by late May or early June.

So, early this morning the team roped up and crossed the Cowlitz Glacier then passed through the Catherderal Gap still not knowing if the Ingraham Direct was a viable climbing option. It was.

The team went straight up the Ingraham Glacier crested the Ingraham Headwall mid-morning and enjoyed the “nice and warm” climbing conditions all the way to the top. The group reached the summit just before noon today.

It’s 4:00pm now and the team is pulling into Camp Muir for a well deserved rest. They will descend tomorrow and celebrate their summit!

All is well here in the shadows of Mt. Rainier.

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Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

Mt. Rainier Gets All the Glory…

April 28, 2009

…but there’s so much more out there!

George Dunn Leading Mt. Shuksan 2007Many of you know that the mid-summer months (July & August) on Mt. Rainier sell out pretty quickly, but that doesn’t mean you can’t get outside and climb a mountain as challenging (or more) as Mt. Rainier!

There are countless climbs in the vast, beautiful and often overlooked North Cascades that offer a much different climbing experience than Mt. Rainier. Private climbs on peaks like Shuksan, Forbidden Peak or Sharkfin Tower are a great way to get outside with friends you know and avoid the mid-summer crowds on Rainier.A training day on Mt. Adams Seminar

Another often overlooked climb is Mt. Adams. At 12,276ft it’s the second highest peak in Washington State and a great challenge. Our route takes you up the Adams Glacier on the northside of the volcano. It’s an amazing climbing experience in a unique alpine environment and a great training opportunity for those looking to climb something bigger like Denali or Aconcagua in the future.

North Cascade Custom Climbs

Mt. Adams Seminars

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Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

So What’s The Deal With Travel Insurance?

There aren’t many people who get excited about researching insurance so I thought I’d take a minute and explain some Travel Insurance thoughts and options and try to answer a few common questions.

IMG recommends that all trip participants consider Cancellation Insurance. There are countless reasons why it may be necessary to cancel your trip (sick child, flight delayed, accidental injury, etc.) so weigh the options and as always read the fine print. Note that if you enroll within 21 days (with Travelex) of your registration for an IMG Program, coverage for certain pre-existing medical conditions may be waived.

IMG recommends Travelex. Specifically many of our customers find that Travelex’s ‘Travel Select‘ coverage fits their requirements, with both primary and comprehensive coverage. Best of all, Travel Select allows for complete customization with upgrades including “Lifestyle Paks”, “Cancel for Any Reason Pak” and “Transportation Pak”. Costs range from under $100 to a several hundred dollars for our more expensive climbs and treks.

For more info and to see current coverage plans and rates, please visit Travelex at: www.travelex-insurance.com

Please note that if you do purchase travel insurance through Travelex IMG’s location number is #47-0050

Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

How Can I Lighten My Pack?

Yup that's a ladder! (Photo by Jeremy Bruan)

The average pack weight for our Rainier climbers is roughly 35-40lbs for our 3.5 day climbs via Camp Muir and the Disappointment Cleaver and roughly 50-55lbs for our Emmons or Kautz Climbers. Below are a few techniques and tips that will help you shave some weight from your pack.

  • A lot of people ask if their ski jacket and ski pant will work for the required stormshell layers. The short answer is yes. The long answer is yes but you might want to consider other options: the average ski jacket and ski pants usually weigh twice (sometimes more) what the simplest Gore-tex shell layers do. Consider renting or buying lightweight Gore-tex layers. (Saves 1-2lbs)
  • Leave the crampon case behind. They’re great while traveling, but should typically be left in the car while the crampons are strapped to your pack itself. (Saves 4oz.)
  • Toiletries: most of this can and should be left at home. All you’ll need on the climb is a small toothbrush and a small tube of toothpaste along with any other absolute must haves… You’ll live without deodorant, lotion, bug spray, facewash, nail trimmers, q-tips, etc. (Saves TBA)
  • Sunscreen: You do not need an 8oz tube. For a 3 or 4 day climb a simple 1oz tube along with some chapstick will do just fine. (Saves 7oz)
  • How heavy is your actual pack? Some packs weigh in at 7lbs while others come in at 3 or 4lbs. Consider upgrading your pack to save the weight. (Saves 3lbs)
  • Personal Food: Don’t try to save weight here. Bring foods you like to eat! Do spend some time thinking/planning your snack consumption for the trip.
  • Sleeping Bags: Again there are tons of sleeping bags that will work, but the weight:cost ratio comes back into play here. Example: Feathered Friends 10 Degree Raven bag (2lbs 5oz) vs. other comparable 10 Degree bags in the 3-4lb+ range. (Saves 1lb+)
  • The insulated (puffy) jacket. There are a lot of options on the market these days that are ultralight and others that are ultraheavy… For a typical Rainier climb you don’t need the Antarctica Down Suit of jackets, a quality mid-weight puffy is what we’re looking for. A hood is strongly recommended. We rent the Outdoor Research Chaos (21-24oz.). (Possible weight savings 8oz.)
  • Extra clothes: you don’t need extra underwear, extra long underwear, extra t-shirts, etc. By the end of the climb we all stink and that’s ok – it sure beats dragging unnecessary items up and down the mountain. (Saves 1lb).
  • Cup, bowl, spoon. That’s it for your kitchen needs.
  • Compass & GPS: Keep it simple here. Unless you like to follow along these can be left behind. (Saves 6oz)
  • Camera, phone, batteries, etc.: Photos are important to everybody so definitely bring your small camera and an extra battery. Cumbersome cameras, lenses get in the way and actually result in fewer photos being taken.

So you can see there are lots of ways to save weight when packing for your next climb. A lot of these come at a financial cost but others are simple and productive. Do your research and you’ll be just fine!


Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

Spotlight On Bhutan (By Phil Ershler)

People ask me – “Why go to Bhutan?”

Every trip doesn’t have to involve carrying heavy packs and doing all the work ourselves.  Once in a while, it’s nice to just go trekking.  With our experienced Sherpa and Bhutanese crew, the team members can relax a bit and simply concentrate on enjoying the people, the country and the experience.  No need to set up tents, carry heavy loads and worry about camp chores such as cooking and cleaning.  Members carry only what’s needed for any given day.  What a pleasure.

Additionally, treks like the one we do in Bhutan give us an opportunity to share the experience with a spouse, friend, son or daughter who may not have the mountaineering skills required for many more involved trips.  Add to all this the fact that a country like Bhutan sees a much smaller number of tourists than many other locations.  And talk about exotic, I can’t think of many locals higher on the ‘exotic’ scale than Bhutan.  Add it all up and you’ve got the makings for a great adventure (read about a past trek here).

Thinking about going yourself? See IMG’s upcoming Bhutan Dates.

Phil Ershler

Mt. Rainier “Denali Seminar” – Day 5

April 16, 2009

As planned the team awoke at 4am, had a quick breakfast and started out in the early morning…

The route they were heading up was ‘Gib Ledges’; a popular early season & winter route. As the team approached Gib Chute they stopped to evaluate the snow conditions. Guides Mark Allen and Ben Kurdt noted a significant wind slab had formed and the stability wasn’t what they were hoping for. Add in the solar radiation from Gibralter Rock and you’ve got a nasty mix of avy terrain and rockfall hazard. Needless to say the team turned at this point and returned safely to Camp Muir.

The summit will have to wait.

The final day of the seminar is tomorrow and with some unstable weather forecasted the team anticipates an early departure downhill from Muir in the morning.

All is well on Mt. Rainier…

Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

Mt. Rainier “Denali Seminar” – Day 4

April 15, 2009

I spoke with Lead Guide Mark Allen today and the sun at Camp Muir continues to shine!

Blueberry pancakes and fried bacon woke the team up and fueled them for another solid training day, but an early dinner and a 4am wake-up call will put the team in their sleeping bags a little early tonight as they hope to take a shot at the summit early tomorrow morning.

Temps at Muir are ranging from the high single digits to the high teens with wind speeds in the teens to twenties. They are above the clouds and in the sun. Forecasted temps on the summit are hovering around 0 with winds forecasted in the high teens to twenties.

We’ll know more in the morning…

That’s all for now…

Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

Mt. Rainier “Denali Seminar” Pulls Into Camp Muir

Photo Courtesy Mark Allen (Winter Camp Muir 2008)Lead Guide Mark Allen called in on the sat phone from Camp Muir a few minutes ago…

The Team had a great day hiking up to Muir. The trail-breaking wasn’t too bad after the last couple days of snow. It’s sunny and warm with minimal wind up there now!

The plan is to do some more training tomorrow then evaluate their options for the remaining days on the mountain. On the menu tonight: Pot Roast, mashed potatoes and some snap peas!

All is well on Mt. Rainier…


Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

Another Storm Holds Up Mt. Rainier “Denali Seminar”

April 13, 2009

Denali like conditions kept our next “Denali Seminar” in camp today.

Photo Courtesy Adam AngelI drove the team to the Paradise Parking Lot in Mt. Rainier National Park yesterday in very winter like conditions… Not the Spring Easter we were hoping for. Some fresh snow was covering the freshly plowed parking lot as the team loaded the packs and rigged up the sleds… Into the snow they went.

Day 1 (Sunday) – The objective on Day 1 is to get to their first camp which is typically located near Panorama Point. Lead guide Mark Allen called in yesterday to report that they had indeed arrived at their first camp and actually went a little higher…they are currently near the top of  “Pan” at roughly 7000ft.

Day 2 (Monday) – Mark radioed in this morning to say that they plan to hang tight for a day, do some training and see if the forecast for improving weather is correct…

Day 3 through 6 – TBA…

Stay tuned…


Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

Lhotse Team Rested & Ready To Move

April 10, 2009

Lhotse Guide Greg Vernovage Reports (4:36am PST)

All is very well here in Namche.  We woke to quite a blanket of snow this morning. It was great.  Started last evening and continued.

Yesterday after a short walk, the sky came tumbling in, just as had I ordered.  The exact words I used were, “Championship nap weather” and it did not disappoint – cold wind and some rain & snow.  The group showered up before dinner just up from a nap, hungry, but most importantly the only dry people in the place.  I love when things go as planned.

The gang is doing just great.  Happy, eating and resting.  The Namche market started this afternoon and runs through tomorrow, but it is time for us to move on up.  It is a great place here in Namche.  Some shopping, warm showers and another good nap are in order followed by some last minute purchases and even a shave by one of the team by the local barber.

On the menu is some good warm tea and probably a few sizzlers (Yak or Chicken).  What a great spot.  Everything is in place and we are laughing.

Greg

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