—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

The Summit of Mt. Everest,  29,035'   •   May 30, 2003 Gary Johnson and IMG Guide Dave Hahn with the New Mexico state flag (photo: Dave Hahn Collection)

All are safe and sound after last trip through the Icefall (photo: Jake Norton)

Dave, Gary and Ben are walking down to Pheriche with PJ tomorrow. PJ will fly Pheriche/Ktm on June 3 and others are walking to Namche/Shyangboche. Yaks arrive at BC tomorrow evening, June 2nd and sherpas leave BC on the 3rd for Pangboche and arrive Shyangboche with all gear in the afternoon of June 4th. Dave and Ang Pasang said they should be able to reach Shyangboche in time for the charter flight on June 5th, so we will now plan on sending the charter on June 5th. We had earlier booked it for the 6th.

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Friday, May 30, 2003 • 1:30pm Nepal Time

Climbers just above the South Col visible below

Deirdre Galbraith called from Base Camp to report that all the climbers were back to the Col and doing well. They have decided to stay there for the night and descend to Camp 2 tomorrow. Some of the Sherpas are going to stay with them and some are going to head down to Camp 2 carrying empty O2 bottles. The weather today remains good and the forecast for the 31st is also for continued lower wind speed.

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Friday, May 30, 2003 • 9:25am Nepal Time

The South Summit at 28,750' (photo: Jake Norton)

Deirdre Galbraith reports that the team is now back down to the South Summit and everyone is doing fine. They spent some time on top waiting for Jake Norton to arrive via the North Ridge with the OLN team. It was quite a reunion, since Dave, Ben, and Jake had been together on Everest last year together.

We now know the names of the Sherpas who summited with Dave, Ben, Gary, and PJ. They are Ang Passang, Ang Chhiring (Kami), Mingma Chhiring, and Dorje Lama. Ang Passang is our Sirdar (head Sherpa) and along with Kami, has probably been on at least a dozen IMG expeditions over the years on Everest and Cho Oyu. Mingma and Dorje have each been on Everest several times before with our teams, but not Cho Oyu. Dorje summitted Everest last year with Phil and Sue Ershler. So far the weather is holding and everything is going smooth. They will call again when they get down to the Balcony.

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Friday, May 30, 2003 • 8am Nepal Time

Gary Johnson and IMG Guide Dave Hahn on the summit of Mt Everest with the New Mexico state flag (photo: Dave Hahn)

IMG physician Deirdre Galbraith at Base Camp reports that Dave Hahn, Ben Marshall, Gary Johnson, and David Pierce Jones have reached the summit. The weather is perfect, no wind. They left the South Col at 9:45 pm last night, and reached the top at 7:45am Nepal time on May 30th. It took them 10 hours from the Col.

Gary Johnson climbing the Hillary Step (photo: Dave Hahn)

Sunrise from 28,600' on the summit climb with the shadow of Everest stretching across the Himalaya (photo: Jake Norton)

During the night the conditions were quite cold, so they kept moving steadily. Now the weather is perfect, warm, sunny, no wind. They plan to spend a short time on top, then start down. They report that they were the first climbers to reach the top today, but that they see some climbers coming up from the North East Ridge. The AAI team is some distance behind them on the South East Ridge, but should be in position to reach the top also in an hour or two. Climbing conditions are reported to be good, and all members of the IMG team are doing fine. They were climbing with five Sherpas, we'll get the names on the next radio call of the ones who actually summitted with them. One Sherpa remained at the Col to wait for them when they got down with drinks, etc. We are very happy, but we know that the climb is now exactly one half over, so we'll wait on the celebrations until everyone is off the mountain.

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Thursday, May 29, 2003 • 9pm Nepal Time

Climbers leaving the South Col for a summit bid

Deirdre Galbraith reports from Base Camp at 9pm on the 29th (Nepal Time) that the wind has dropped somewhat and the team on the South Col has decided to attempt the summit now. They are scheduled to leave Camp 4 at about 10pm. Good luck!

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Thursday, May 29, 2003 • 9am Nepal Time

The South Col, 26,300'

We heard from Deirdre Galbraith at Base Camp, who reports that Dave's team is doing well at the South Col after a windy night. They decided not to attempt the climb today (the 29th in Nepal), and are going to try again tonight (the 30th). They have plenty of oxygen, so they can wait several days if necessary. Today will be a rest day, with plenty of time to rehydrate, rest, and if the wind dies a bit, go out and take a stroll around the incredible expanse of the Col.

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Wind on the upper mountain. The South Col is is the plateau on the right. (photo: Jake Norton)

Wednesday, May 28, 2003 • 7pm Nepal Time
IMG Physician Deirdre Galbraith reports from Base Camp that Dave and team made it to the South Col in good shape, but that it is blowing hard up there, so it is unlikely they will climb tonight unless the weather breaks. They are camped about 50 feet away from the AAI group.

Deirdre also reported on the unfortunate crash involving a big Russian MI-17 helicopter a short distance below base camp (¼ mile or so). She said there were at least eight people injured, including two Nepalis (Sherpas) who were killed. Some of the injured were bystanders on the ground, including a trekker and a helicopter crewman. There was a Nepal Army helicopter in the sky at the time that landed promptly to evac the victims to Lukla... Now the atmosphere in camp is pretty subdued and quite a few teams have started walking out having changed their mind about leaving BC by air.

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Sherpas climbing the Lhotse Face (photo: Jake Norton)

Tuesday, May 27, 2003 • 7pm Nepal Time
Deirdre Galbraith reports that the IMG team moved from ABC to Camp 3 today in 4.5 hours, a good time. They are currently ensconced at Camp 3 and getting ready for bedtime. Their plan remains to move to the South Col on the 28th, and try for the summit on the 29th. The Sherpa team moved to ABC today from Base Camp, and will move to the South Col tomorrow to meet the climbers there in the afternoon.

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dave Hahn in the Icefall (photo: Jake Norton)

Sunday, May 25, 2003 • 8am Nepal Time
The IMG South side expedition, led by guides Dave Hahn and Ben Marshall, with climbers Gary Johnson and David Pierce-Jones, is now on their way back up to ABC for their second summit attempt, and is hoping to summit in about four days.

A few days ago, Dave decided to come back to Base Camp for rest and reorganization, after their first attempt was thwarted by bad weather and general chaos on the upper mountain. They will be joined on their climb by five of their seven climbing Sherpas. Two of their Sherpas will start pulling down the lower camps, so as to expedite their departure as soon as their summit attempt concludes. Despite that IMG's 75 day climbing permit doesn't expire until June 5, the SPCC, which charged each South side expedition $2500 for Icefall maintenance, has threatened to stop maintaining the Icefall route, a potentially dangerous situation. Fortunately for all the climbers and Sherpas from various expeditions who are still climbing on the mountain, the Ministry of Tourism has been able to assist by getting the SPCC to agree to keep the Icefall open.

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Dave Hahn

Thursday, May 22, 2003 • 6am Nepal Time
IMG team leader Dave Hahn phoned from Base Camp. The IMG team descended from Camp 3 yesterday after assessing the situation unfolding around them. Dave said that a combination of factors played into the decision to abort the summit bid and descend, including very questionable weather, the lack of fixed ropes on the upper route, and the large numbers of climbers either at the Col or moving up to it that day. Dave said "it just didn't feel right for us." They have returned to Base Camp to evaluate the remaining schedule and forecasts, as well as the movement of others on the mountain, and they'll wait as long as they can for the overall picture to improve. Dave said that some teams have pushed up from the Col to try to reach the summit today and some may make it, but the winds seem fairly strong up high so conditions aren't optimal. Dave will let us know when the team thinks they will move up for their summit bids.

—Erin Simonson, IMG

A climber looks up the Lhotse Face from Camp 2 (photo: Jake Norton)

Monday, May 19 2003
IMG expedition doctor Deirdre Galbraith reports from Base Camp that the IMG climbers are now at Camp 2 taking a rest day (on May 19) and that the plan remains for them to ascend to Camp 3 on the 20th, to the Col on the 21st, with a summit attempt planned for the 22nd. Deirdre reports that there are 7 teams sharing the same schedule.

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Climbers in the Western Cwm just below Camp 2 (photo: Jake Norton)

Sunday, May 18 2003
IMG doctor Deirdre Galbraith called on the sat phone to report that the IMG team successfully climbed from Base Camp to Camp 2 on May 18.

The team is now taking a rest day (May 19) at ABC and the plan is to go to Camp 3 on May 20, South Col on May 21, with a summit bid planned for May 22.

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Everest Base Camp (photo: Jake Norton)

Thursday, May 15, 2003
IMG team leader Dave Hahn phoned from Base Camp. All eyes are on the forecasts now, with the IMG team ready to climb when a clear window looks likely. Strategy and timing are becoming more critical with only two weeks remaining in the season. Right now, it looks like a number of teams will target the 19th or 20th for a shot at the summit.

Dave and his team are now considering a move up to Advance Base Camp (Camp 2) on Saturday (May 17th), rest on Sunday, then move up to Camp 3 on Monday (May 19th), to the Col on Tuesday (May 20th), to the summit on Wednesday (May 21st.) We'll let you know when we hear more!

—Erin Simonson, IMG

Everest Base Camp at night. The Icefall is visible above. (photo: Jake Norton)

May 10, 2003
IMG team leader Dave Hahn phoned from Base Camp, where the entire team is now resting. After spending four nights pinned down at ABC during the wind squall, the team was able to successfully climb to Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face, where they slept and then climbed the next day to the "yellow band" before descending back down to ABC and then down to BC the following day.

Dave said the team did well on this cycle, got a taste of camp life while perched on a ledge up high, and will now be ready to move to the South Col and attempt a summit bid when the weather opens up. Dave believes that window may not open for another week at the earliest, but the team may move up to ABC within the next two or three days to be in a better position to take advantage of an unexpected weather break should it happen. Until then, they're resting at BC and playing the waiting game.

—Eric Simonson, IMG Director

Tuesday, May 6, 2003
IMG team physician Deirdre Galbraith called on the satellite phone from Base Camp and reports that the entire IMG team is holding at Camp 2 in the face of continued high winds. The climbers, led by Dave Hahn, have been at Camp 2 now for three nights, and are still hoping to make it up to Camp 3 for a night or two before returning to Base Camp. All the Sherpas are also at Camp 2, waiting to make one more trip to the South Col.

Yesterday, three Sherpas braved the wind to go up to Camp 3 to check on the tents and they report that the camp is still intact, so this is good news given the tales of wind destruction flowing in from both sides of the mountain.

—Erin Simonson, IMG

The Lhotse Face

May 2, 2003
IMG team leader Dave Hahn phoned in from Nepal Everest Base Camp for a brief update. The entire team has now slept for several nights at ABC (Camp 2) and all had a successful day-climb up to Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face before descending back to Base Camp for some rest. Everyone is feeling OK.

On the team's next move up the mountain, they will try to advance their acclimatization a little more by sleeping at Camp 3. The Sherpas have been steadily carrying supplies to the high camp at the South Col, so soon all will be in place for teams to consider the timing of their summit bids. The jet stream is predicted to move in today, and with high winds predicted for this weekend, some team's preparations may be delayed. We'll see how it goes.

The team ordered a bunch of fresh food to be delivered to Base Camp, including fruit, vegetables and meat, so their appetites seem to be holding up fine! Magazines and newspapers were also requested to help pass the time while waiting for the green light.

—Erin Simonson, IMG

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