Ouray Ice Climbing Ouray Ice Climbing Festival, Colorado
Gear List

IMG Ouray Ice Climbing Gear List

This equipment list is meant to help you compile your personal gear for a mountaineering expedition. Most items are required. Please consider each item carefully and be sure you understand the function of each piece of equipment before you substitute or delete items. Keep in mind that this list has been carefully compiled by George Dunn, the expedition organizer. Don't cut corners on the quality of your gear.

[  ]Boots: Rigid lug-sole climbing boots. You boot must have a welt that accepts a clip-on crampon. Modern insulated leather or synthetic climbing boots are much lighter and more precise for ice climbing than plastic double boots. Either is acceptable for the course.
[  ]Socks: Two changes of heavy wool or synthetic
[  ]Gaiters: short boot top gaiters are more flexible, but traditional knee high gaiters will work fine. Many boots these days have integrated gaiters, and climbing pants that stay in place over the boot top will work without gaiters as well.
[  ]Long underwear: Synthetic or wool tops and bottoms
[  ]Soft Shell Pants: Any of the mid-weight climbing pants made from stretchy, dense weave, durable synthetic fabric (like the Outdoor Research Cirque pant) are ideal.
[  ]Shell Pants: Breathable/waterproof with full to &#frac34; length zips to go on over boots
[  ]Shirt: Expedition weight synthetic top
[  ]Soft Shell Jacket and other mid-layers (temps can range from 0°F to highs in the 40's).
[  ]Shell Jacket: Breathable/waterproof jacket with hood. Lightweight and slim in fit is best for ice climbing.
[  ]Warm Parka: Down or synthetic filled, but does not need to be 8000m weight. A mid-weight warm belay jacket is fine. We do a lot of standing around belaying and watching, so an insulated layer is essential to stay warm between climbs.
[  ]Hat: Wool or fleece with a Buff, neck gaiter or a balaclava. Pick a hat that fits well under your helmet.
[  ]Gloves: Bring minimum 2 pair, at least one good insulated glove for belaying, and one that balances warmth and dexterity for climbing. Bring gloves with a good grip (leather palms work well). You may need to trade off your gloves as they get wet, so having several options is good. A good all around glove is the Outdoor Research Extravert. Simple, dexterous, warm. The OR Stormtracker works well for dexterity on climbs, but is less warm.
[  ]Mittens (optional): insulated mitts with a water resistant shell and a good grip. These are backups only, or for those with extra cold hands. Most ice climbers prefer to use gloves if at all possible.
[  ]Helmet: A good fitting UIAA approved climbing helmet.
[  ] Ice Tools: Two 45 to 50cm technical ice tools.
  • Recommended manufacturers include Petzl, Black Diamond and Grivel
  • If you just buy one tool, get a hammer head, not an adze. Many ice climbers have hammer heads on both of their tools. No adze to bonk yourself in the forehead with.
  • Leashless tools are the standard, and for good reason. Best adapted for mixed and steeper climbing, leashless tools open up a whole new set of options for the modern ice climber.
  • Stumped on what to buy? It is probably best to rent tools and technical crampons your first time out. IMG has them available for you in Ouray. Try out as many types of tools as you can and see what works best for you before you buy.
[  ]Crampons: vertical front point crampons, hand filed sharp. Recommended brands include Petzl, Black Diamond and Grivel. More and more climbers are choosing monopoints for serious ice climbing and mixed climbing. The single front point allows you to pivot your foot more and places well in narrow cracks. Just make sure your crampon has aggressive secondary points close to the front monopoint for softer or rotten ice conditions. Monopoint is great for technical ice and mixed climbing, dual points still work best for general alpine climbing and in softer ice.
[  ]Climbing Harness with belay loop: Adjustable leg loops, good gear loops, and ice-clipper slots are helpful.
[  ]Carabiners: 2 locking pear shaped 'biners, minimum. Bring a couple of non-lockers if you have them.
[  ]Belay Device: Black Diamond ATC XP or ATC Guide or any of the comparable devices.
[  ]Sun Glasses: Good shatter resistant, wraparound sunglasses that provide eye protection and minimize fogging.
[  ]Suncream and Lipbalm
[  ]Water Bottle: One quart, wide mouth plastic bottle with insulating cover.
[  ]Thermos: It's nice to bring hot coffee or tea out for the day.
[  ]Pack: Good sized (30-50L works well) climbing pack to carry spare clothes, food and ice tools for the day.
[  ]First Aid Kit: Each individual should carry a small kit to meet their personal needs. Recommendations include: Aspirin or Tylenol, Ibuprofen, Band-Aids, Steri-Strips, 1 or 2 4X4 gauze pads, athletic tape, moleskin and any necessary personal prescription drugs.
[  ]Everest Training programs only: Bring a handled ascender, figure-8 device, large carabiner (consider the Petzl Vertigo WL), and 12' of 8mm accessory cord and we will help you dial in your ascender/safety tether rig for the big mountains.

[  ]Sewn webbing runners: a 48" nylon runner is super useful as a rappel extension, and highly recommended if you'll be climbing in the backcountry or wish to practice rappelling.
[  ]Extra non-locking carabiners
[  ]Ice screws (if you have your own, you're welcome to bring them to practice with, but guides will have enough).
[  ]Prussik Slings: Bring two pretied 6mm. prussik loops if you plan to practice rescue training (as in on the 5-day seminar. Construct each prussik out 4.5 feet of 6mm Perlon accessory cord tied with a double fisherman's knot. Or just bring 10-15 feet of 6mm cord to create your own.
[  ]Extra non-locking carabiners
[  ]20 feet of 7mm. cord for linking anchors if you want to practice anchor systems
[  ]Camera with extra batteries
[  ]Disposable glove warmers, for those with cold sensitive fingers
[  ]Swimsuit for the hot tub

Note: If you do not own ice tools or vertical front point crampons and do not wish to purchase them, rental tools and crampons are available for an additional fee. Make your request early, as supplies are limited. Our ice tool stock currently includes Petzl Nomics and Quarks. Crampons include Petzl and/or Black Diamond models.

Item:2 Days3 Days5 DaysPer add'l day
One Ice Climbing Tool$10$15$25$5
Two Ice Climbing Tools$20$30$50$10
Technical Crampons$10$15$25$5

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