February 13, 2012

John Race reviewing rope skills (Photo: George Dunn)

In late January IMG guides met in Ouray, Colorado to review ice guiding skills and to share the latest techniques and technologies. With over 200 routes in the ice-park and dozens of backcountry climbs a short drive from town there is never a shortage of ice real estate to play on in Ouray. The town of Ouray is nestled in a cul-de-sac of the San Juan Mountain range and boasts a multitude of hot-springs and good beer: two very good things to follow up a day on the ice with.

Our first day of guide training was spent on ice and top-rope anchors, various rappelling and lowering techniques, and instructional methods. Who better to learn from than the people that are out there using these skills every day. IMG lead guides Justin Merle and John Race led our training with the same expertise and humor that they bring to the “office” every day.

The Guides at play (Photo: Nick Laws)

The second day of training was used to review multi-pitch ice guiding methods. This training covered much of the skills that we use on longer alpine ice routes, like the Kautz Route or Liberty Ridge on Mt. Rainier. One of the more difficult skills to get dialed is managing hundreds of feet of multiple ropes while hanging from the side of a ice fall.

It was another great winter IMG guide training. There’s no better place than Ouray, in my opinion, to work on your ice climbing skills. Hopefully you can join us there for one of our ice climbing seminars.

Nick Laws, IMG guide

February 7, 2012

It has been a couple of years since I made it out to Ouray, CO. Not by choice, just by circumstance. I’ve missed it. I love the scene here and the way the town embraces ice climbers and makes them feel like favored guests.

So I agreed to meet up with my long time friend Perry Julien. He’s been out of action for about 6 years with a serious leg injury. He really did a number on it. Skiing, not climbing just to be clear. He can only bend the leg a limited amount.

Most people in this situation would give up on all outdoor activities. Not Perry. He is not one to listen to anyone who tells him he can’t do what he wants to. He likes to travel, have adventures and see the world. Perry is a fun guy to hang out with! Anyway, we agreed to meet in Ouray this year to see what we could do. Me, to get back on the ice after a time away. Perry to see if it was still possible.

The first day the big test was hiking down the climbers’ approach into the “Schoolroom”, a classic top-roping area. I was nervous at first, but Perry relied on his past climbing skills and was able to lower himself and work his way down the steep descent using the fixed hand lines and lots of careful steps down the icy “trail”. We both agreed that just being in the Ice Park made it a successful trip and it was a beautiful day. The understanding was that Perry would test his leg with a couple of short steps on the ice. My job was to provide a ready belay and keep him from any drops if he slipped. So we geared up. I set up a top rope on a 75 foot route of WI III-IV difficulty. Not too stiff for a good climber, but hard enough.

The first time up about 20 feet was a bit of a struggle. Try to kick in crampon front points with a leg you can’t bend! Perry figured out he had to set up his leg so he could take short steps on it.

It wasn’t pretty, but it didn’t hurt and he was game for another go. So he went up again. Looking a lot smoother this time and just a bit higher. After a brief rest, he wanted to give it another go. He worked up to his previous high point and rested for a bit. Then he kept going. I knew he was going for the top. Not to prove anything mind you… just to set it out there that as far as he is concerned, anything and everything is possible.

It was a fun couple of days in Ouray. We already have more plans on the table. Ouray for sure, next year. Maybe a climb of Rainier in the summer. Most definitely Kilimanjaro in January 2013. For our wives, mind you. They want in on the fun too. I can’t wait. It is always a fun time with Perry.

George Dunn

January 17, 2012

Our Veterans have another wonderful week climbing ice in and around Ouray, Colorado!  Read on!

“Imagine an expedition with excellent climbing and access to a hot springs on the trip. No, I’m not talking about going to Ecuador and lounging in the Papallatca spa at the end of the trip. That trip only has one day of hot springs. What about FIVE DAYS? The Ouray Veterans program gives you a great chance to up your climbing skills and you have the opportunity to sit in a hot springs EVERY DAY!  For those of you who haven’t been to Ouray, just try it. For those who have and are ready for the Veterans program, you need to join us next year. Why? Because it’s the PERFECT adventure vacation. 

How can you not enjoy yourself on a trip like this? Our typical day: get up in the morning… have a cinnamon roll at the Artisan Bakery or a breakfast at Backstreet Bistro… head to the park with truly enjoyable guides with a great sense of humor… climb all day and end it by coming back to Mouse’s Chocolates for a strong coffee… spend an hour in the hot springs… join everyone for a beer and dinner at any of the great restaurants in town (Buen Tiempo, Ouray Brewery, O’Brien’s Pub, Bon Ton)… finish up the night with a visit to Mouse’s for an Ice Climber candy or Turtle sundae. Talk about AWESOME. The climbing is fantastic, but so is the surrounding experience. I’m always a little worried on climbing trips that I’ll come back tired and not having relaxed. However, every day in Ouray on the Veteran’s program was very relaxing – in additon to challenging.

So, what about the climbing? Our week was awesome! The veterans program really lets the climbers focus on how they want to push themselves. There were four of us: Catherine, Marc, Stacey and I along with guides Justin Merle and John Race. By the end of the week, we were a full team. We started out climbing Water Ice 2-5 in the park then quickly picked a backcountry goal outside the park. It was awesome to do my first multi-pitch route – Dexter Slabs – which was south of Ouray 2 miles towards Ridgway. Then we did some leads and mock leading inside the park and finished on the last day near the Skylite area about 4 miles outside the park on Camp Bird Road. Some of the great out of park routes we chose included the Senators, Chockstone’s Chimney, Slip Sliding Away and the Ribbon (yes! It was in this year!) Talk about a great five days of climbing!

Be warned though, you’ll have to fight me for a spot next year if you want to join for the Veterans program… I’ll be there for sure!”

 By Cale Hoopes , Ouray Veteran

January 13, 2011

One of the many climbs in Ouray. (Photo by Jeff Ward)

After a wax and wane of December weather, the conditions here in SW Colorado are balancing out very nicely. Everything that traditionally comes in has formed fantastic shape and some more allusive climbs have come in as well.

The Ice park is also in great form, even after 1000 climbers came through here just this past weekend for the Ouray Ice Festival. Our current IMG program has been having a blast climbing this years ice. Tomorrow we venture to take on several of the backcountry climbs.

In a nut shell, we are in full swing with great climbing conditions and the weather looks to be holding this pattern for now. Even sunny days are currently cold making for great climbing on sunny aspects too.

Come on down; we have more ice that we have time to climb.

Mark Allen

October 30, 2009

The home to some of North America’s premier ice climbing each and every winter is in a small town in Southwestern Colorado called Ouray.  Often more intimidating than the vertical water ice is pronouncing Ouray correctly! So how do you say it… Is it “Oooray” or “Ewwray”…? Actually is best pronounced You-Ray.

So now that you know how to say it correctly it’s time to see which course fits you best. We offer 2-day, 3-day and 5-day courses, private trips are no problem either…and with no experience needed to get started climbing there are officially no excuses! IMG Guides John Race, Olivia Cussen, Mark Allen, Brian Warren, Zoe Hart, Jake Norton, Matt Farmer, and Eric Remza hope to see you in Ouray this winter for some world class ice climbing.

Get Vertical!

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Tye Chapman
Operations Manager