Archive for the ‘Mt. Rainier’ Category

Into A Crevasse…On Purpose

September 28, 2012

Last week we put together an Intro To Mountaineering Course for a few Outdoor Research product managers and designers. They spent day 1 leaning the basics (ice axe arrest, cramponing, etc.). The second day they went out onto the Nisqually Glacier for an up close encounter with a crevasse.

Below is a note and a couple photos Kendra sent our way – sounds like they had a good time!

Tye Chapman

From: Kendra
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2012 9:51 AM
To: Tye Chapman
Subject: Thank You

We would like to give a huge THANK YOU to IMG Guides Emily Johnston and Austin Shannon for an amazing experience on our Intro To Mountaineering Course.  It was an experience none of us will ever forget.  Emily was an exceptional instructor teaching us self arrest with our ice axes and how to “walk like a monkey down a hill” with our crampons.    We had such a great time with many laughs throughout both days.

The second day, when Austin joined us, was sweet!  Having the opportunity to repel down a crevasse and ice climb out was absolutely awesome.  Never having ice climbed before I have to admit that I was absolutely terrified, however both Emily and Austin were very comforting and professional easing each of us into the situation.  It was so amazing I had to go down into the crevassse a second time.  This was such a great opportunity for our product team to get out  and use our product on a glacier with professional mountain guides to gain valuable feedback.

Seriously, this was such an incredible two days and we are so grateful for the IMG team to allow us such an amazing opportunity.  Next year….we summit!

Thank you for everything and we hope you continue to love and use the Outdoor Research product.

Thanks,

Kendra Brandenburg
Outdoor Research
Product Manager – Headwear

2013 Rainier Dates Released

It’s official, our 2013 dates have been released and with just 8 climbers and 4 guides on each climb, the spots go fast!

Quite a view from the upper mountain. (Eric Remza)

Let’s cut to the chase:

Winter & Denali Prep Seminars: Literally a prerequisite for Denali. 4 experienced guides, 8 climbers, 6.5 days of learning/training/climbing and generally getting your butt kicked by the winter weather. This program is for you if your eyes are on Denali or you’re just looking for a winter challenge. Included in the price of the program is lodging for your first night in Ashford and all breakfasts and dinners on the mountain. What a deal!

Kautz Route: Sweet climbs for the climber with a little (or a lot) of climbing experience. This is the best option for those who’d like to return to Rainier to attempt a different, slightly more challenging route.  1 day traversing the south side of Mt. Rainier, 1 day climbing the Turtle Snowfield, Summit day up the Kautz Ice Chute and 1 day down to the parking lot. Back for a late lunch at The Copper Creek on the 4th day.

3.5 Day Disappointment Cleaver Route: A great introduction to Mt. Rainier and mountaineering in general. Half-day of orientation and gear checks. 1 day to Camp Muir (10,000ft), 1 day training at Camp Muir and moving to High Camp at the Ingraham Flats (11,000ft) and 1 summit & back down day. Heck we’ll throw in some pancakes and bacon at Camp Muir!

4.5 Day Emmons Route: Another great introduction to Mt. Rainier and mountaineering in general. Maybe just a little tougher than the 3.5 day climb but the extra day on the mountain makes up for it. 2 days to Camp Schurman (9500ft), 1 summit day and 1 day back to the trailhead. A perfect climb for the fit individual looking for a little more adventure.

For the more experienced climbers we have more technical programs like the Fuhrer Finger Route and Liberty Ridge.

Additional Courses include: Little Tahoma Seminar, Glacier Skills Seminars, Mountain Day Schools, Advanced Mountain Day Schools and Crevasse Rescue schools are popular programs for climbers looking to get a grasp of the basic skills needed to pursue climbs on their own.

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Signing up is simple:

1.) The website is not real time so call/email the office to check availability. (360)569-2609/office@mountainguides.com

2.)  Carefully read, execute and submit the PDF docIMG Mt. Rainier Application Forms and Payment Information (PDF). This is the only way to apply for and secure your position on the program.

Please Note: Your position is not confirmed until all properly executed forms and application fees have been received and reviewed at the IMG office in Ashford, WA. If within 48 hours of submitting the Application Forms you have not received an IMG confirmation email, please contact our office to confirm we have received all of your information.

Got a group? No problem:

1.) Assign a point person to do the leg work of rallying the troops to fill out the forms, etc.
2.) Call office to check availability
3.) Submit all forms/payment on same day or all together at once.
4.) due to the volume of calls and reservations we receive, we cannot ‘hold’ or ‘pencil in’ any spots.

Those Darn Knots!

September 9, 2012

From: Joseph Manning
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2012 11:35 AM
To: Tye Chapman
Subject: Thank you!

Hey IMG,

I am sitting in Seattle now, with clean clothes, and am a couple of showers post my incredible week on Rainier with IMG and the Glacier Skills Seminar. I am beginning to reflect on what an incredible week it was. It is not easy to put into careful words just how great the experience was. I find that it takes several weeks to really come down off of the mountain, my head is flooded with so many things about the experience. I was out of my comfort zone the whole week, from the first time I put on the loaded pack and we left from Paradise. I experienced many “firsts” that week. As a competitive cyclist for many years, I know what it feels like to be in a sport where everything is automatic. In my favorite new world of mountain climbing, everything still is new, and I felt like I had two left feet, ten thumbs and was focused, always focused, on (trying) to remember knots. Those damn knots. Was it a Butterfly knot here, or a clove hitch. “Hey Aaron…….” But you know what, the IMG guides were always besides me helping out, answering questions patiently, but also knowing that we students had to do it ourselves. That feeling of learning, of gaining confidence, slowly, of finally learning that knot, was a real joy. I was exhausted as Dustin and I reached Paradise. But I wanted to head back up hill the next day!

Now that I am back at sea level, and reading The Freedom of the Hills again, I realize how much we actually learned, and how I can build on this for the future. The amount of new knowledge, both positive- learning new things, and negative- learning what I need to improve on (pretty much an uncountable list in my case), was absolutely priceless. I am truly amazed that a week-long course like this, with world class guides, in a breathtakingly beautiful environment, actually costs so little. IMG courses and climbs (my kind of vacation for sure) truly are a bargain.

All of the guides were amazing, patient, highly skilled, giving of their time and experience and really great to be around. Like the Kili trip last fall, this IMG experience has to be chalked up in the “most memorable life experience” category. How great is that?

IMG, you all really offer those who come to you world class adventure as well as first class teaching that I, as someone who teaches for a living, truly appreciate. The Glacier Skills course was just an outstanding week. That goes for the weather too! Mountain climbing, it is often said, is best taken as a journey, not a destination. We did not summit, getting weathered off from 11,100, so I have to come back next Summer. But descending in the storm was a great experience itself, a real confidence builder.

Aaron, as Lead Guide, thanks so much for your superb leadership. Chris, thanks for your instruction, and Dustin, thanks for many things, especially for hanging back on the descent as I was fighting  a tummy bug. You guys are class acts all.

I hope you realize that on the ” what to improve” section of the Survey we filled out at headquarters, I was being facetious when I said that we could have had more personal attention. Not possible. We could not have been better treated by you all or by Tye back at headquarters.

Thanks guys, very much! IMG rocks. I can’t wait to get back into the Hills, and I am making plans for Spring and next Summer with IMG already! And I can’t wait for more instant oatmeal in some kitchen tent, up high, with the best guiding company on the planet.

Joe

An Evening Hike To Camp Muir

August 12, 2012

Last night after work Erika Bjornson and I jumped in the car and headed up to Paradise. Our mission: enjoy an evening hike up to Camp Muir & to check out the Perseid Meteor Shower.

Enjoy the hike we did. We hit the trail at 6:45pm and made good time up to Pebble Creek. Once on snow we relished the evening breeze and continued making good time up to Camp Muir. It wasn’t until we hit Moon Rocks (9000ft) that we had to pull out the headlamps.

In the end, we rolled into Camp Muir at 10:15pm, popped over the ridge and cast our eyes on the tent that our team had set up for us – a nice perk around these parts! We sat outside for a bit and saw some of the meteors – turns out they’re not in full swing until the pre-dawn hours. We had fun nonetheless – and got a good workout in too.

The morning came, as it always does. We shook the cobwebs, broke down the tent, then fought the urge to hang around for the pancakes and bacon that our team was sure to devour.Instead, we opted (read contractually obligated) to head downhill so I could get back to the office.

All told: 45min driving. 3.5hrs uphill to Muir. 30minutes stargazing. 7hrs sleeping. 1hr sipping coffee chatting with friends. 2hrs downhill. 45min driving. A ton of fun. And back at my desk by 10:15am (give or take).

Tye Chapman

Lil’ T Seminar Out Having Fun

August 1, 2012

IMG Guide Eben Reckord called in from the Whitman Glacier near Little Tahoma. He and Dustin Balderach are leading our 6.5 day Little Tahoma Seminar. Today they moved camp a little closer to Little Tahoma proper. Tomorrow they’ll continue training and if all goes as planned they’ll climb on Friday.

In the meantime they’ll continue having a blast!

Tye Chapman

 

Kautz Climb Trip Report – Mt. Rainier

July 5, 2012

Our latest climb of the Kautz route on Mt. Rainier tagged the top a few days ago. Below is a trip report by IMG Guide Nick Laws.

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While crossing the Nisqually Glacier on the first day we found the perfect spot to bring everyone up to speed on climbing techniques for steep snow and ice. This prepared us well for what was to come on our summit day. After training, the team moved up to the Wilson Bench at 7,400′ to make camp.

The next day dawned gorgeous and we moved up to the ridge below the Turtle Snowfield with good kick-steps. Once gaining the ridge the team moved efficiently up the ridge to high camp at 10,800′. This put is in perfect striking distance of the rock step that allows access to the Kautz Ice Chute for our summit bid the next morning.

Day 3 began breezy and clear above with a near full moon. Conditions were perfect for side-stepping up the Ice Chute with cold, firm snow. With a little route-finding on the upper Nisqually we climbed over the crater rim after 7 hours of climbing. It was a beautiful morning! With dropping temperatures and the threat of snow the team moved quickly back to high camp. After a hot meal everyone got some rest before heading back down to Paradise the next morning.

Overnight we got a couple inches of new snow, which made for great glissade conditions down much of the route. Conditions only got better as we descended out of the wind and snow until we reached Paradise to find the 4th of July blue skies already moving in.

Nick Laws

Liberty Ridge Team Summits!

June 21, 2012

Above Thumb Rock

Justin Merle just called in from the summit plateau at 2:10 pm PDT after his team topped out on Liberty Cap, a false summit on the mountain, but the end of the technical difficulties on the Liberty Ridge route. They have a couple of hour’s slog over to the true summit, then will stop to brew up some water and rehydrate.

Justin says they’ll continue their descent via the normal Camp Muir route and will likely stop for the night at Camp Muir. They’ll be down mid-day tomorrow.

Congratulations to the team for a job well done!

George Dunn

Liberty Ridge Team Climbing Strong

June 20, 2012

Good news from Liberty Ridge!

Camp at Thumb Rock

Justin Merle called in this afternoon at 2pm PDT. The team is doing well. They spent last night on lower Curtis Ridge at  7,000’ and got an early start this morning, walking by 6am. They made good progress climbing the Carbon Glacier to the foot of Liberty Ridge at 8,500’ , reaching that point at 8:30am. The team climbed up the west side of the ridge in good firm sun cupped snow, then bumped to the east side after 500 feet, continuing up in more sloppy, wet snow but with good step kicking conditions. Justin reported that they had been in camp for a couple of hours already. He and guide Aaron Mainer were planning to climb a bit higher this afternoon to kick in steps for the following morning.

The plan is to depart even earlier tomorrow, with a 3 or 4am departure, heading for the summit.

The team plans to climb up over the summit and descend via the Camp Muir, Disappointment Cleaver route down the south side of the mountain. They’ll likely spend a final night somewhere down near Camp Muir.

We’ll hope to be able to report the team’s success tomorrow!

George Dunn

JanSport DC Team Spins At 12,800

June 14, 2012

Even George Dunn turns around from time to time! The group left the flats and after reaching the top of the cleaver they encountered some slopes they just weren’t comfortable with, so they stopped, took some photos and headed back to the Ingraham Flats. A great effort by all on a beautiful, cold & windy morning.

Both JanSport teams will convene on IMG here this afternoon before heading to The WellSpring Spa for a nice dinner, a couple drinks, and a well earned rest!

No summits this year, but all will make it home safely with 10 fingers and 10 toes!

Tye Chapman

JanSport Emmons Team Shutdown But Happy

June 13, 2012

DC Team having a Matrix moment

IMG Guide Eben Reckord called from Camp Schurman this morning to report that they were shutdown at roughly 12,500ft. They awoke to sustained winds nearing 30mph and they only increased as the team moved higher on the mountain. When they turned around the winds were estimated at ~60mph, just too stiff to climb. Everybody is back at camp, likely napping, lounging and swapping stories from previous outdoor adventures.

Just over a mile away (as the crow flies) is the DC Team, led by George Dunn, at the Ingraham Flats. They’re settling into their tents for their summit attempt tonight.  Relatively high winds are forecasted again so we’ll just wait and see how the team does…

More tomorrow.

Tye Chapman