Archive for the ‘Mt. Rainier’ Category

Guide Training And A Birthday Party

May 7, 2013

Every spring all the guides who are not on expeditions around the world gather in the booming metropolis of Ashford, WA for our annual Guide Training weekend.  We shake out the cobwebs and refocus our energies on Mt. Rainier. Day 1 usually consists of some updates on procedures, protocols, etc. and culminates with a BBQ. Day 2 is up on Mt. Rainier refreshing on some fundamentals and tweaking some skills based on new gear or industry standards.

This past Saturday and Sunday were no different – except for the absolutely phenomenal weather and it being IMG Guide and resident ER Doc, Emily Johnston’s birthday.

Good times had by all!

Tye Chapman

Denali Prep Seminar Training Today

May 2, 2013

Team in the Cathedral Gap yesterday. (Austin Shannon)

Austin called in yesterday afternoon with a no-go report on the snow conditions on the upper mountain. They poked around but given the conditions and the warming trend in the weather they opted to hang tight last night and not climb.

Tough call but when the mountain tells you no, it’s best to listen.

Today they worked on some fixed lines, learned about anchor building, and dug a snow cave. Not a bad alternative!

Tye Chapman

Denali Prep Team Checking Things Out

May 1, 2013

Camp Muir Panorama May 1, 2013 (Austin Shannon)

IMG Guide Austin Shannon called in from Camp Muir this morning to report great conditions – cold and clear.

After a long day on the snowfield yesterday they’ll take it relatively easy today. Their plan today is to head up to the flats for an exploratory mission to scope things out. Once they’ve had a chance to evaluate the terrain they’ll head back to Camp Muir for the night to determine their next steps.

That’s all for now…

Tye Chapman

Denali Prep Seminar Getting Ready

April 27, 2013

The all important gear check!

Our last Denali Prep Seminar of the winter checked into day.  Their first objective is to go through their gear and hopefully lighten up a little.  After a thorough checking of their personal gear they’ll jump into the group gear (tents, food, stoves, fuel, shovels, etc.) eventually dividing up the loads between their packs and the sleds.

Tomorrow, they’ll hop in the vans and drive up to Paradise and onto Camp 1, near Panorama Point. It’s not a huge day but an important one. They’ll spend a good amount of time tomorrow afternoon learning how to set up a Denali style camp. From there, they’ll make their way up the mountain as the weather allows with their next big objective being Camp Muir.

The forecast calls for cold and wet for the next couple days but it should trend better later in the week.

Tye Chapman

 

The Mountain Is Out

April 24, 2013

If you’ve spent any time in the Puget Sound area you know that the day can often be defined by if Mt. Rainier is out or not… Well, everybody in the area is thrilled today – she’s out and in great form.

Our advice: Mental Health 1/2 day! Get outside and go play.

Rainier Webcam. (Source: Mt. Rainier National Park)

Tye Chapman

Denali Prep Team #3 Takes On Rainier

April 16, 2013

On the move to Muir (Scott Bjorlo)

Lead guide Chris Meder called in this morning at 8:45 a.m. The team was hiking up Panorama Point at around 7,000 feet in elevation, already on their way to Camp Muir at 10,000 feet. They will likely reach Muir by 3pm.

The team spent yesterday training out of a campsite near 6,500 feet and planned to move up today to take advantage of a very good weather day for travel.  Upon their arrival at Muir, they’ll spend the next two days training, based out of the Muir hut, and make a day trip higher up the mountain if conditions permit. The group will descend back to Paradise on Friday. What a great expedition training environment. Mt. Rainier in the spring is excellent training for high, cold weather expeditions like Denali and Aconcagua.

George Dunn

From A Guide’s Perspective – Packing Tips

March 27, 2013

By Chris Meder

Chris Meder

Packing is one of those unsung skills of all successful climbers. Do it well and you will save time, energy, hassle… and be ready to go before everyone else.  Here are a few things to help you improve your packing game.

1. Pack only what you need, leave the rest behind.

Less gear means a lighter pack, which makes it far easier and more enjoyable to climb.  We all know this intuitively, but it’s easy to lose sight of when thinking about creature comforts.   Pare down your gear to only what is on the gear list, and you’ll be well on your way to a better climb.  Most climbs are relatively short in the grand scheme of things, so it’s easy to go without some of those supposed “necessities” for three or four days.  You will thank yourself every time you pick up your pack.

2. Be balanced and compact.

An ideal packing job should give you a compact and balanced pack that won’t be cumbersome while climbing.  Here are some guidelines to help you get there:

  • Heavy, dense items such as food, water and climbing gear should be centered in the pack, and go up against your back and generally from the small of your back up to your shoulders
  • Lighter, less-dense items such as clothing should surround the heavy items, further from your back and on the bottom
  • Use stuff-able items such as clothing to fill in around rigid items, such as food or climbing gear, filling all the empty spaces
  • Fit everything possible inside the pack (crampons and ice axe are the usual exceptions).  Attaching things to the outside of the pack can throw you off balance easily.

3. Big things in the big pocket, small things in the small pocket.

If you’re buying new, choose a simple pack with one large compartment, and a small pocket better known as the lid of the pack on top.  That’s really all you need.  This might sound limiting, especially when considering all the bells and whistles on most packs on the market these days.  But, the more pockets available, the more places to lose things.  Keep the pack simple; this helps keep the job of packing it simple.

4. Do a trial run.

Lay out your gear, clothing and food for the climb on the living room floor.  Now divide the gear into two piles:

  • Big items – think jackets, clothing, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, water bottles…
  • Small items – sunglasses, hat, knife, sunscreen, camera, GPS, toothbrush

Now pack the pack from the two piles; big things go in the big pocket, small things go in the small pocket.  Simple enough, right?  Think about it – if I put my camera or sunscreen in the middle of the big compartment amongst a bunch of clothes and other bulky items, I’ll never find it when I need it.  And thinking about an item being buried makes me less likely to actually look for it.  Translation – sunburn and no photos.

5. Same item, same place, every time.

“Where are those batteries?” “I know I packed that shirt somewhere.”  We hear things like this a lot, and it’s just due to a lack of routine.  So here’s how to avoid this.  Pack and unpack your gear a bunch of times before a trip.  Develop a system that works for you so that everything fits, and you know where everything is located.  Do this enough so that you put each item in the same general place every time.  This helps a lot when you’re looking for something or scrambling to pack quickly in the mountains.  Everything has its place, and you’ll always know where each item lives.  Then you’ll have time for a drink or a photo while someone else is looking for their batteries.

So there it is.  Only pack what you need, in a simple pack, in a balanced and well organized manner and you’ll be well ahead of those who haven’t yet mastered the packing game.

Denali Prep Seminar Wraps It Up

March 22, 2013

Yup, it snowed. (Photo by Jeremy Hilligoss)

After enduring 5 days (and nights) in the midst of several “Winter Weather Advisories” on Mt. Rainier, our latest Denali Prep Seminar came downhill yesterday afternoon. Not knowing what today was going to bring, coming down a day early was the safe decision.

So, today they put the harnesses on and did some crevasse rescue work here at IMG HQ,which in all honesty is a better place to practice some of the skills necessary to climb Denali.

They’ll officially wrap up things up this afternoon.

Some more photos from the seminar can be found on IMG’s Facebook page here.

Tye Chapman

 

Denali Prep Team Getting Full Dose Of Mt. Rainier

March 6, 2013

Greg checked in this morning from Camp Muir:  the team is in the middle of a great week on Mt. Rainier – despite the weather conditions! The opposite in fact is true; the rough conditions are providing some perfect training opportunities for the crew, most of who have their eyes on Denali this year or next.

40-50mph winds and some fresh snow yesterday, resulted in 1-2 feet of new/drifted snow this morning.  Conditions today are a little better with lighter winds… “We’re going to do our best to be outside all day today!”, said Greg.

More snow, but lighter winds are in the forecast for tomorrow with some nice weather theoretically coming in on Friday – we’ll see.

The photos below were taken by IMG Guide Dustin Balderach a couple weeks ago on our last seminar – enjoy!

Tye Chapman

Denali Prep Seminar On Deck This Weekend

March 1, 2013

Winter conditions on Mt. Rainier. (Photo Ty Gimenez)

We’ve got another Denali Prep Seminar coming in this weekend, out in front will be Greg Vernovage. Assisting Greg will be Josh McDowell and Peter Adams.

Weekend To Do List:

  1. Check the weather.
  2. Pull the group gear (tents, ropes, stoves, sleds, etc.).
  3. Pack the food – bacon, lots of bacon.
  4. Radio and Sat Phone Check
  5. Team arrival at 2pm
    1. Introductions
    2. Mountain Briefing (Wx, conditions, etc.)
    3. Gear Check
    4. Pack-up for Sunday.
  6. Load up and go on Sunday!
  7. Have fun.

Tye Chapman