Archive for the ‘Mt. Rainier’ Category

2012 Rainier Season In Full Swing

May 16, 2012

Another Rainier season is here and already in full swing, but not without a little prep work beforehand.

In advance of our first climb we sent a crew up to Camp Muir to whip it into shape for the season.  On the to-do list was cleaning out the Gombu Hut, setting up the IMG Weatherport, carrying some loads up to The Flats and poking around on the upper mountain exploring the route. It was a busy week but the weather was absolutely making the work a little less painful.

Meanwhile, our first climb met for the first Half-Day Orientation of the season. IMG Guide Erica Engle, fresh off of Mt. Bona, tore through the climbers’ packs during the gear check, hopefully lightening their loads a little bit.  On Sunday, they put their training to the test and made their way up to Camp Muir in some unseasonably hot conditions.  On Monday ,they broke in The Flats camp at 11,000ft. And on Tuesday everybody’s hard work was rewarded when they became the first IMG team to summit…and in perfect conditions!

The seal to the 2012 Summit Board has officially been broken!

Tye Chapman

Mt. Rainier: Climb It. Now.

May 10, 2012

Mt. Rainier

You may have noticed this weekend’s current forecast – unbelievably perfect weather to kick off our first Mt. Rainier summit climb of the season.  If you’re tired of the same old barbecues and looking for something new and exciting to do, we still have room for 2 more climbers to tag along on the Mt. Rainier Classic 3.5 Day Summit Climb starting this Saturday, May 12-15.  Join our Guides – Erica, Nick, Austin and Josh for an adventure of a lifetime.  Call our office today to claim your spot on the roster!

Can’t make it this weekend?  Give us a call for updates on cancellations and available dates – (360)569-2609.

Might as well – it’s one more thing to scratch off the bucket list.

Becky Kjorvestad

Hey, Where’s Your Parka?

April 19, 2012

Richard Harvey put together this poem after our most recent Denali Prep Seminar on Mt. Rainier. Pretty cool stuff!

Enjoy the read.

Tye Chapman

Richard and Co. at The Flats on Mt. Rainier.

Hey, Where’s your Parka?
By Richard Harvey

As the moon came up and the sun went down
We eyed each other up and dreamt of the snow
Anxious but keen each went through their stuff
Name, rank and something interesting Tapp wanted to know

The guides stripped our bags of luxury and comfort
Even while the rental signature was still wet with ink
“Only take one pair of undies” he insisted without smiling
“When I’m finished with you, we’re all gonna stink”

So we crept in the bunkhouse and waited for dawn
The chill outside grew suddenly sharper
We hoped we were prepared but only time would tell
Some still received the drill “Hey, where’s your Parka?”

So we loaded the kit and took to the powder
The further we got the silence grew louder
To camp one we made haste grunting with sleds
Full of fuel “not with the food”, stoves, wands and who knows what chowder

That night we fed well on IMG’s marvels
We thought life is good, Denali’ll be easy
They set up two heads and the circus was pitched
It was then that the blue bags started to itch

Up the snowfield higher and higher
To Muir one step at a time
Breath getting shorter
We continued to climb

Ice Station Zebra came into view
Into the freezing pit we crawled
Unknowing that the next days
Even our toothpaste wouldn’t even get thawed

Patience slowly ebbed in that frozen wasteland
Zeus’s breath blew blizzards filling every crack and pit
We hunkered down and learnt of each others worlds
Some were sombre, others full of twisted wit

But we braved the elements and learnt the trade
Our masterful guides provided their best
Knots and anchors, crevasse rescue came next
And some of us received our first airborne arrests

On the nights when the wind blew white and relentless
Tapp’s steely eyes filled us with stories of terror and wonder
“On Denali Hexadecamethabiozanethanodiamox is the one you’ll need…”
We knew he was right when the Doctor silently agreed

Each day our clothes grew increasingly wet
No doubt these were the toughest guides we’d ever met
But the days of pain continued to get longer
And the howling winds grew hauntingly stronger

Day by day the toilet paper ran low
Some dreamt of frolicking ladies far below
During stories of Kashmir some tended feet beginning to swell
While the military guys made notes to take back to intel

And then Tapp gave the news
“Bring your clothes, every last one, we’re going for the top”
Adrenaline pumping, our nerves never sharper
We double checked out stuff “Hey, where’s your Parka?”

Predawn we crunched, traversing the ice
Except the more nervous, all silent as mice
But in the end the freezing, circling blizzard
And avalanche danger kicked our hopes in the gizzards

Back down we descended
Past Ingraham’s icy jaws and crevasses
The guides kept our spirits high with
Klemheists, Autoblocks and lashes

The Fahrenheit plummeted into the singles
Strangers came to give us their angles
We bonded playing cards late into the night
Citizen Cope warmed our hearts like a flicker of light

We knew things outside were getting bad
When Ershler was thwarted and our cookies turned back
So we hunkered down and shivered and shook
And wished that just one of us had bought a book

Then a hint of blue painted the zenith
We took to fixed lines and dug pits in the snow
And built a boys dream and all crammed in a snow cave
Smiling and happy, all dug with unbelievable gusto

And finally our bittersweet moment came to depart
To Paradise and showers and (thankfully) no more talk of South Park
We ran, slid and fell, just getting our way down
The guides skiing making us all look like clowns

As we spotted Tye we all started to grin
We knew that we’d made it and were close to the gin
Through the burgers, beers and our Copper Creek laughter
We could still here our leader’s echo calling
“Hey, where’s your Parka?”

Into The Cloud-Sea Far Below

April 4, 2012

With the Rainier season fast approaching I recently found myself re-reading Dee Molenaar’s The Challenge Of Rainier and I came across a poem written by former Chief Guide Clark Schurman that is worth sharing.

Into the cloud-sea far below
I, lonely, watched the red sun go,
Then turning, miracle of glad surprise,
Enchanted, saw a full moon rise.

———
Get those workouts in and we’ll see you this summer!

Tye Chapman

Bruised, Battered But Not Beaten

March 16, 2012

Yesterday, the Denali Seminar pulled out of Mt. Rainier National Park a day early thanks to a snow plow escort provided by the park. With more snow in the forecast, taking advantage of an escape route when it was presented just made sense.

The team stopped digging long enough to pose for this photo. (Photo by John Race)

After drying out, they enjoyed a nice burger at The Copper Creek and an Intro To Crevasse Rescue lesson last night.  Today they’re hands on with the crevasse rescue as they wrap-up the seminar.

Tye Chapman

Bad Weather & Good Training Continues

March 14,

Our Denali Prep Seminar continues to take advantage of the harsh conditions Mt. Rainier is throwing at them.  Given the recent storm activity, just getting into the park makes this seminar a success.

Setting up camp and training in these conditions makes all the difference and will give these guys just that much more experience to fall back on when they’re loading up their sleds on Day 1 on Denali.

Jackson Visitor CenterWebcam (NPS)

Tomorrow brings more snow, and with it, more learning opportunities.

Tye Chapman

Nasty Weather On Rainier Making Things Difficult

March 13, 2012

After a couple training days at HQ, our latest Denali Prep Seminar loaded up and headed into Mt. Rainier National Park this morning. The forecast doesn’t look much better than the past few days, but then again this is why folks come to Mt. Rainier in the winter to train for Denali!

Mt. Rainier Webcam - Jackson Visitor Center (National Park Service)

Tye Chapman

Mt. Rainier Fix For The Day

March 8, 2012

For all you Mt. Rainier junkies out there, here’s your fix for the day!

Mt. Rainier. (Photo by Dustin Balderach)

(Between me and you, we’re all just as addicted as you are.)

Tye Chapman

Rainier Prep Talks Scheduled

February 23, 2012

Mt. Rainier

It’s that time of year again – time to talk Rainier!  Join IMG Guides at local REI’s to glean some good information on what you need to know to climb the Northwest Icon.  Training tips, route information, gear and more.

Below are the dates and locations – See you there!

Date
Time REI Presenter
Thursday, February 23, 2012 7pm Tacoma Jason Edwards
Thursday, February 23, 2012 7pm Olympia Ty Gimenez & Josh McDowell
Tuesday, February 28, 2012 7pm Issaquah George Dunn
Thursday, March 1, 2012 7pm Redmond Eben Reckord
Wednesday, March 28, 2012 7pm Southcenter Tye Chapman
Friday, April 6, 2012 7pm Seattle Phil Ershler

From A Guide’s Perspective: Staying In Shape

January 25, 2012

Staying In Shape In The Off Season
By Jess Culver

Lets face it, it’s hard to stay in shape between seasons. It starts when the Halloween candy comes out, gets even worse come Thanksgiving, and hits its peak somewhere between Christmas and New Years. Then, the 1st of the years rolls around and you’re a few pounds guiltier & several pounds heavier. Finding the motivation to shed this weight can be tough; here are some tips I use between seasons.

For me, I know I have to be in good shape when the Rainier season opens, which is probably in the back of a lot of your minds as well. With that in mind, I’ve found that setting smaller goals between big goals really makes the time go by a lot quicker than the alternative: 4-5 days a week on the hamster wheel. I like to sign up for a few running races in the winter & spring.  I’ll start small, maybe a 5k, then work up to a 10k and eventually a half-marathon and then the full 26.2. There are countless programs out there that will set you up for success at these races; they work if you’re honest with yourself and stick to the program.  And don’t be intimidated by the people that run these races, they are all smiles and are super supportive to all shapes, sizes and speeds. Trust me, you’ll have a blast.

This year I completed some of my biggest races yet. I ran a local 30K trail run here in Montana. I drove over to Spokane, WA for my first ever marathon and finished in under 4 hours (goal achieved).  And knocked out another marathon a couple weeks ago in Arizona.

Remember: things don’t get easier; you just get better at them.

Jess Culver