Archive for the ‘Guide Features’ Category

IMG Guide Mark Allen In American Alpine Journal

April 13, 2011

By Mark Allen

Mt. Bradley watercolor. Art by Lee Allen. Topo by Mark Allen.

Graham Zimmerman and I landed in the Ruth Gorge on March 28, and soon spotted a virgin line on the southeast buttress of Mt. Bradley. We made an attempt on March 31. Then, on the evening of April 2, we left camp with 40 hours of food and fuel in a 20-pound second’s pack and a 15-pound leader’s pack, regained our highpoint and established five more pitches. Mid-day we bivied on a prow, sheltered from what loomed above. The 1,500′ day included Zimmerman climbing several M5 pitches and me dealing with sustained 5.9 rock, an A1 tension traverse, and a transition from boots and crampons to rock shoes and back.

(Read more)

 

OR “Goes” to Everest with IMG

March 9, 2011

By Eben Reckord via OR’s Verticulture

29,035ft or 8850m - Either way it's the top of the world!

It’s hard to think that my journey to the top of the world started on a train in Tokyo. I was fourteen and I knew I wanted to climb, but wasn’t quite sure how to go about it. The closest climbing gym was three hours away and every Sunday my friends and I would set out for it. It was an all-day event and we made sure our homework from the American School in Japan was done before leaving so that the adventure could run late. Not really knowing what we were doing we bouldered our brains out, too afraid to try roped climbing. Though only pulling on plastic every Sunday, the experience would evolve into a serious passion for big mountain climbing. And, like any good climb, by no means was it a straight line from those Sunday outings to Pump 2 in Tokyo to the summit of Mt. Everest.

The flag I’m holding up in this picture means so much to me. In the middle is the rising sun; Japan’s essence. I consider it a commitment to a new day, a commitment that anything is possible. The Kanji means number one. And though I am an American, my time in Japan helped to shape the man I am today.

Outdoor Research has been with me from the start of my guiding career when I met Dan Nordstrom on the Emmons Glacier on Mt. Rainier. (Read more)

8 Weeks In Antarctica: Q & A with Aaron Mainer

Aaron Mainer

Aaron went to Antarctica with Phil in November to guide our first Vinson trip of the season but then stayed on the ice to help ALE for a couple weeks while waiting for our second Vinson trip. If you kept up with the blog you, saw that our second trip was stuck on the ice for an additional two weeks for various logistical reasons which were out of our control. After a total of 8 weeks on the ice Aaron is back in Washington so we asked him a few questions:

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Q.) You left before Thanksgiving; what was on the Thanksgiving menu?
We were still in Punta Arenas for Thanksgiving and I never saw Turkey on the menu. I guess it would have been kind of weird to have a harvest festival in the spring.

Q.) You spent Christmas in Antarctica; does Santa visit the ice?
No, without the cover of darkness, he has nowhere to hide.

Q.) And how did you bring in the New Year?
The second IMG team along with half a dozen other parties showed up to Vinson Base Camp on New Year’s Eve. Having all of those new folks in camp was very cool. Everyone was really excited to get started up Vinson and on top of that, it was New Year’s! ALE made a little platform outside and brought out some champagne and we had a big countdown with everyone in camp. We even had sparklers, although they were a little less spectacular in the daylight.

Q.) Two trips; two summits. What differences did you see between November and January on Vinson and/or on the ice in general?
Surprisingly very little. Compared to a summer season on Mt. Rainier or in the Cascades, Antarctica is a very static environment. You could start to see a few more cracks beginning to form, but it was very subtle. It was slightly warmer in January, emphasis on the “slightly”.

Q.) What distinguishes the two climbs from each other?
Every expedition has its own character, that’s what makes the job interesting. Different people with different life experiences and different perspectives make each expedition unique. About the only thing they had in common was that they both went to the top of Mt. Vinson.

Q.) You had an ‘extra’ two weeks at Union Glacier waiting for the flight…what’s more memorable:
a. Your “Union Glacier Ridge Traverse”
b. Playing in the Volleyball Tournament (Video)
c. Winning the Ping Pong Tournament
d. What else did you guys do?

I might have to go with “A” but add to that all of the other climbing that we were able to do while we were down there. This was the first year of the Union Glacier Camp and it was very cool to be able to get out and explore. Almost everything we did had never been done before and so it was fun to go cruise around the mountains and figure it out. Believe it or not I would love to have two more weeks at Union Glacier! As for the “what else” question- lots of UNO. Yeah, remember that card game you used to play when you were 6? Turns out it’s still fun even after adolescence.

Q.) The sun doesn’t truly set down there this time of year – did that mess with your senses at all? And how do you tell the difference between 4am and 4pm?
It is weird wearing sunglasses every time you go outside 24-7, but like anything, you get used to it. I “borrowed” an eye shield from the airline on the way down to Santiago and got a lot of use out of that. As far as 4pm vs. 4am, I bought a special Antarctic timepiece that worked really well. And if you believe that, shoot me an email because I have some snake oil for sale too.

Q.) How many books did you read? Favorites?
I came pretty well prepared on that front and did have some good ones. My dad actually gave me one entitled “The Last Place on Earth”, which is an account of the historic race to the South Pole between Scott and Amundsen. It’s a fascinating story and it was pretty fun to be reading it while I was in Antarctica. If you ever feel tough and want a dose of humility, pick up a book about early polar exploration. Those guys were something else.

Q.) What, if any, was your access to technology?
While working for ALE between IMG trips, I was able to send a few emails. Other than that, it was just the occasional SAT phone call.

Q.) What’s your biggest takeaway from being in Antarctica for so long?
Hmmm… I’m not sure how to answer that yet. Two months is a long time and I’m still kind of processing the experience. I will say this- Antarctica is a VERY cool place, no pun intended. I feel very fortunate to have had the opportunity to spend a little time down there and I hope to be able to go back, just not right now…

Q & A With IMG Guide Max Bunce

December 14, 2010

Max Bunce

Q&A With IMG Guide Max Bunce

1.)     Max, you were on our Cho Oyu Expedition (blog updates) and immediately followed that up with our Ama Dablam Expedition (blog updates)… How many consecutive days were you out of the country?

3 Months

2.)     Being gone that long what did you find yourself missing the most?

My girlfriend, my family and my friends.

3.)     Three highlights from the trips that we wouldn’t expect to hear?

Getting worked up high. Gotta love it.   Playing cards with the group. We had some fiery folks and inevitably the games turned into yelling matches. Somehow this was fun…   Getting lots of reading done. I rarely get time to myself when I am home.   Between trips, I enjoyed hanging with a Thai rock climbing guide & drinking beer on the beach with a monkey named Harry (seriously). The long sleep after summiting Ama Dablam. I know that’s five.

4.)     Worst meal you ate? What do you not want to see in front of you for awhile?

In Pangboche after summiting Ama Dablam we saw hamburgers on the menu. Naturally we all were very excited and ordered 8 of them. When they came we realized our mistake, apparently they take the ham part literally but since ham is not readily available they substituted Spam. This was by far the worst meal I have ever had!

5.)     Favorite thing about Nepal?

The Sherpa.

6.)     Favorite thing about Tibet?

The stillness of night with mountains looming overhead. It was surreal.

7.)     Cho Oyu Expedition in one sentence?

Lots of snow.

8.)     Ama Dablam Expedition in one sentence?

Steep ice and rock with amazing exposure.

9.)     Fill in the blank: I’m glad to be home because:

Being stuck in Lukla sucks! We were stuck there for 9 days on our way out.

10.) What do you want for Christmas?

A Kindle

11.) Did you get home in time for Thanksgiving?

Just in time. Probably the best holiday for me to come home to. Yum.

12.) Plans for the winter?

Ski patrol at Crystal.  I had one week off, no rest for the weary.

Fall Guide Training – Leavenworth, WA

October 6, 2010

Several times a year IMG Guides gather for a few days of guide training. In the spring it’s alpine training here on Mt. Rainier, in the winter they get together in Ouray, CO for some ice climbing training but in the fall they gather in Leavenworth for some rock training.

The past few days our guides focused primarily on rock-rescue skills. The training was led by certified guides Jeff Ward, John Race and Olivia Cussen.

Tye Chapman

Mark Allen – Now A Fully Certified IFMGA/AMGA Guide

October 5, 2010

IMG Guide Mark Allen just officially informed us that the AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) officially awarded Mark “Full Guide” status after passing the Alpine Guide Exam last week.  Mark has been with us here at IMG for quite sometime now and we’re proud to see this new development in his career! Way to go Mark!

Up next  for Mark:  Ama Dablam (22,494ft – 6856m) in Nepal.

Tye Chapman

Guide Feature: Greg Vernovage

Read about IMG Guide Greg Vernovage in the August edition of Volleyball Magazine… yes that’s right Volleyball Magazine!

Guide Feature: Justin Merle

Thursday, March 12 2009

From time to time I’ll bring you a feature on one of our guides.

Today’s feature: Justin Merle (pronounced Mer-lee).

Justin will be heading back to guide Everest for us this year. “Merle”, as he’s called, has been spending a lot of time in Nepal these days. Last spring he successfully guided Everest, he then returned to Nepal in the autumn to guide the IMG team to the summit of Ama Dablam… and now he’s heading back.

Justin was in La Grande, OR earlier today when I caught up with him. He’s making his way form Ouray, CO, where he was ice guiding this winter, to Portland, OR to visit some friends before he leaves for Kathmandu next Friday.

In catching up with Merle I asked what he’s looking forward to on Everest this year?

Merle says, “I’m looking forward to seeing my friends. It’s strange to think that I have to travel to Everest Base Camp to catch up with some of my closest friends. It’s going to be a busy place (EBC) this year but I’m going to enjoy crushing the likes of IMG Guide Mark Tucker and Ang Jangbu Sherpa at the poker table.”

Justin remarked that will also enjoy climbing and guiding Mt. Everest.

Justin’s Bio
Justin grew up climbing in the mountains of the Pacific Northwest. He began guiding in 1999 and now shares his passion for the mountains on climbs all over the world. He has climbed Mount Rainier over 100 times and guided successful expeditions on Mt. McKinley, Mt. Vinson and Aconcagua. Since his first trip to the Himalayas in 2003 guiding Cho Oyu for IMG, he’s returned to guide five more expeditions including Ama Dablam and Everest which he has summited twice. Lately Justin spends the spring and fall guiding in the Himalayas, summer on Rainier and other Cascades peaks, as well as winter guiding ice climbs in Ouray, Colorado or guiding abroad in South America, Africa or Antarctica. He has a B.A. in Geology and has maintained WFR and OEC medical certifications, as well as a CAA Level 1 avalanche cert. When not guiding, he spends his free time climbing rock and ice, running, cycling, skiing, and even resting on occasion.

Justin In The News:


Tye Chapman
Operations Manager