August 14, 2011
by IMG Pirate Jenni Fogle
The Buff is relatively new to the ‘gear scene’ but it is quickly becoming a must-have item. Simple, lightweight and versatile give it instant credibility amongst the guide staff and makes as close to required as possible. Here IMG Guide Jenni Fogle gives a quick demonstration of a few of The Buff’s uses.
Buy your IMG Buff here.
May 16, 2011
Q: Can I wear my contacts in the mountains?
IMG Guide (and recent Everest Summitter) Max Bunce enjoying a cucumber on the Muir Snowfield.
A: Absolutely. A lot of our guides wear contacts in the mountains without issue. You’ll have to be careful when putting them in and will need to keep the solution container close to your body to keep it warm. Cleanliness can be a problem but diligence pays off in the end. If you can wear them for multiple days then that makes it even easier, but bring a back up in case you have issues with your primary pair.
Now, for those of you who wear glasses and are unable to wear contacts, prescription glacier glasses might be a good option. If you see yourself doing a lot of climbing it is probably worth the investment – it sure beats trying to wear goggles and glasses at the same time. www.opticus.com is a good place to get a pair – not a cheap solution (~$300) but worth their weight in gold when compared to the alternative.
Tye Chapman
**Update: May 26, 2011
Contacts wearer and friend of IMG, Luke Torres, adds:
Let me add to what you wrote by recommending the one a day disposable contacts. The contacts are good for a single day’s use. After that you simply throw them away. The next day you open the package for a new contact and pop it into your eye (although I forgot a mirror on one of my trips and the absence of a mirror made putting the new lense in my eye difficult — I used my mirrored sunglasses). No cleaning, solutions, etc. to worry about. Each contact costs about a dollar so for the 6 to 10 contacts you need for a typical Rainier trip you’re looking at about $6 to $10.
March 31, 2011
Asolo Evoluziones are a great choice of double plastic boots for Mt. Rainier.
With the Rainier season just around the corner we’re getting “the boot question” more and more frequently so here’s a snapshot of our thinking…
When to use plastic boots:
* Early season (May and June) and winter
* If you are a First time climber, you should rent them
* If you are a person with compromised circulation or a history of cold feet
When to use single boots:
* If you own your own boots and have used them successfully in similar conditions to Mt. Rainier
* During the peak summer season (July through September)
* If you have fit issues (very small, large, narrow or wide feet)
Late season suggestion:
If you are climbing in later season (after early August) it is often worth bringing a light pair of hiking or running shoes to wear on the first 2½ miles of the approach up to Pebble Creek. These are especially valuable on the way down if your feet are sore (or hot) in the double plastic boots.
For our full boot philosophy on Mt. Rainier click here.
November 18, 2010
Outdoor Research Zip Sacks
When you’re on the trail how do you carry the food for your trip?
Is it in a ripped-up, ultra-thin plastic grocery bag? Or in a stuff sack that forces that item you’re really looking for all the way to the bottom so you can never quite get your hands on it?
Either way the Outdoor Research Zip Sacks will make snacktime on the trail a little more efficient. The horizontal zipper allows you to open it up and see what’s inside so you can get to that leftover slice of pizza you’ve been craving for over 2 hours now.
Guide Tip: Get a Medium for the bulk of the food for your trip and a Small for your daily rations .
If your food system is dialed think about one (or two) of these for all those miscellaneous items (spare socks, dry gloves, headlamp, compass, blister kit, lighter, etc.) that are always floating around the lid of your pack.
SPECS
Small: 8 inx 5 x 4 (244 cu. in. or 4 liters) 1.3oz.
Medium: 10in x 6 x 5 (427 cu. in. or 7 liters) 1.4oz.
July 4, 2010
The base of Breithorn, IMG guide Jeff Ward on the right. (photo: Tracy Purcell)
We get this question quite frequently… The answer depends on your goals and objectives. For additional experience on glaciated peaks that get you a few thousand feet higher than Rainier, consider the Mexican Volcanoes, the Ecuador Volcanoes, Mt Elbrus (Russia), Classic Climbs in the Alps, and our Alaskan Ascents in Wrangell/St. Elias National Park. For additional skill training, consider our Expedition Seminars on Rainier or our popular climbs in the North Cascades.
If you prefer to just walk up to higher altitude without dealing with crampons and ice axes, then any of our treks like: Kilimanjaro, Bhutan, Machu Picchu or Everest Base Camp would be a great fit as all of these treks combine lots of walking with high mountains and great cultural opportunities.
June 30, 2010
International Mountain Guides Buff in detail.
International Mountain Guides Buff
You asked for it… so here it is!
The Buff is one of the most functional pieces of clothing on any gear list. If you’re facing some windy conditions on “The Top of the Cleaver”, some harsh sun at the South Col or some dusty conditions on Aconcagua the Buff sure comes in handy.
Not required in the mountains, but darn close!
May 6, 2010
The short answer is yes.
The long answer is: if you have a good hat system (wool hat, balaclava, and a buff) you can get by without it on Mt. Rainier. But go anywhere else outside of Mt. Rainier (Aconcagua, Ecuador, Kili, Bona, Denali, etc.) and you’ll absolutely need a hood. My advice: buy it once and buy it right.
Over the years we’ve had a couple different guide issue “parkas” a.k.a.”puffys” and they’ve been great:
Outdoor Resarch Chaos: This is our rental parka and it’s been bombproof for us 3 years running now! Waterproof and synthetic fill = great for the Pacific Northwest climate. Check out the fancy IMG Custom Embroidery.
Outdoor Research Virtuoso – A great summer Rainier jacket. 650-fill down = light and warm! The fully insulated hood is a great touch. Our guides lived in this jacket last summer.
That’s all for now.
Tye Chapman
December 17, 2009
Nobody likes colds hands in the mountains (or anywhere else for that matter) so we had Phil Ershler explain his glove system… Having been on Denali over 30 times and Vinson (Antarctica) 15 times you might say Phil is a bit of a cold weather expert. Check out what he has to say about his glove system.
Tye Chapman
Operations Manager
November 19, 2009
IMG Partner Phil Ershler breaks down some layering options for the alpine environment. Check it out and compare it to what you’ve got in your pack.
Tye Chapman
Operations Manager
A: Mild altitude illness, also known as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), is not uncommon among people climbing Mt. Rainier. Typical symptoms tend to include headache, loss of appetite, nausea, shortness of breath, fatigue, restless sleep, and an increased heart rate and increased respiratory rate.
There are many things you can do to help prevent altitude illness. Hydrating during the climb is the most important and effective, but other effective techniques also include “pressure breathing,” using medications such as Diamox, and taking acclimatization hikes prior to your climb. Ibuprofen or aspirin can help with the headache and other symptoms of altitude illness.
Proper hydration while on an alpine climb can help you avoid cold injuries as well as prevent altitude illness. The more hydrated you are, the better you will feel at altitude and the faster you will acclimatize (adapt to higher altitude), because you will be able to assimilate more oxygen into your blood stream and deliver it throughout the body more efficiently. It is important to keep track of your fluid intake to make sure that you’re getting enough. We generally recommend that a person drink between 4 and 6 liters per day while climbing or training on Mt. Rainier. The general rule of thumb is that if your urine is clear and copious, then you are drinking enough. Electrolyte drink mixes will help replenish electrolytes lost from sweating and exertion. It is important, however, to remember to eat as well as drink during the day, both to maintain your energy levels and prevent hyponatremia. Drinking too much water without replacing electrolytes can make you hyponatremic (the flushing away of important electrolytes in the bloodstream due to excess water), which can be a life-threatening illness.
In addition to staying well hydrated, consider avoiding substances that act as diuretics or depressants. Refrain from alcohol, caffeine, nicotine, antihistamines, sleeping pills and other depressant drugs for a few days prior to and during your climb.
Another means of preventing altitude illness is pressure breathing, or purposeful hyperventilation. The more you force yourself to breath deeply and force out the old stale air in your lungs, the more you will rid your body of carbon dioxide and allow your body to take on more oxygen. This, combined with proper hydration will allow your body to transport more oxygen molecules around the body. This breathing technique is very effective and is employed by most successful high altitude mountaineers. IMG guides will teach you about pressure breathing during your climb.
Generally, just being fit will help you feel better at altitude. Being fit will also help you manage any symptoms of altitude illness without simultaneously struggling with the journey up the mountain. When possible, go for acclimatization hikes prior to the climb. Hike a local peak with some altitude (8,000 feet or higher) or consider coming out to Ashford a day or two before your climb with IMG and do a day hike up to Camp Muir (10,000ft) to log some time at altitude and start your body on the process of acclimatization.
Some medications have been shown to help prevent altitude illness. IMG does not recommend any specific medications. People tend to do fine with the moderate altitude of Mt. Rainier without any medications, especially if they are on one of our longer (3, 4, 5, and 6 day) programs. If considering medications for altitude illness, you should consult with your physician. Diamox (acetazolamide) can help prevent altitude illness and many climbers use it on high altitude expeditions around the world. It is usually not necessary on Mt. Rainier and is reserved for more extreme altitudes such as those found in the Himalayas and in South America. You need a prescription from a doctor to obtain Diamox so a consultation with an MD is necessary, and that is a good time to ask questions regarding its benefits and drawbacks, as there are several side effects that can affect one’s climb. If you do decide to take Diamox, we suggest starting with a small dose (125mg morning and evening) to minimize unpleasant symptoms (tingling, itching, excessive urination).
In the end, simply maintaining good hydration is the single most important thing you can do for yourself to avoid altitude illness.
For more information about AMS and altitude illnesses, please visit: www.princeton.edu/~oa/safety/altitude.html