November 11, 2011

Part 5 of our week long series “From A Guide’s Perspective”, IMG Guide Max Bunce talks about some key components to any successful outdoor adventure.

Max Bunce

1. Hydrate, Hydrate, Hydrate

Many times in my life I have failed on a climb almost certainly because I was dehydrated. Hydrating comes in three phases. Pre-hydrating, hydrating during the climb and post-hydrating. Pre-hydrating starts the night before, usually tapering down at night so that I am not up all night going to the bathroom. In the morning I start back up again with at least a liter before the climb starts. During a climb, I usually drink no more that 2 liters of water, keeping in mind that water is heavy and drinking takes time. You might be dehydrated by the end of the day, but something’s gotta give! Hydration bladders are nice because you can drink water more continuously but they don’t work in all situations. The number one reason not to use a bladder in the mountains is that they freeze. The second reason is that they seem to leak more often than a regular water bottle. During a classic rock climb called the Petit Grepon in Rocky Mountain National Park our party decided to bring most of our water in one 100 oz. bladder. Two pitches up, I felt a wetness on my back and to my dismay I found that our water drained into my backpack because the hose got pulled off. We climbed the rest of the day with no water causing us to move slower and make less than ideal decisions. We made it out safely but that little mistake could have cost us! Post climb is also a very important time to hydrate. Downing a liter in the 2 hours after the climb increases recovery and may make the difference for the next days climb. Remember beer is not a substitute for water but if you have to, drink light beer!

2. Eat!

Tell me if this sounds familiar? You have been hiking all day with friends or a loved one and sometime later in the day you get in a fight about the most trivial thing. This is almost certainly due to a lack of blood glucose. It happens to everyone and it is caused by burning through all your food energy. Simple solution, eat more! The problem is many people aren’t hungry so they don’t eat. As a guide this is one of our “red flags”. It’s a complete no brainer, if someone is not eating and they are burning calories, eventually they will crash. A good rule of thumb is to eat at every break. One common question is what to eat? The short answer is whatever you like best. I would go with foods that you eat on a regular basis, things you know that you like. Here, weight is less important than finding quality food that you like. Finally eating lots of high sugar food right after a climb is a good idea. It has been shown in many studies that eating or drinking so called “fast” carbohydrates immediately after exercise helps recovery. This is when I go to my favorite candy, sour patch kids.

3. Pace Yourself.

November 10, 2011

Part 4 of our week long series “From A Guide’s Perspective”, IMG Guide Greg Vernovage lays out a few simple but effective tricks of the trade.

Greg Vernovage

Tricks Of The Trade
By Greg Vernovage

I have been around a lot of guides over the years and what I’ve noticed is that we all have some things we do that help us keep our sanity and allow us to be more a little more comfortable in what can be an uncomfortable environment.  I’m no different, my tricks tend to focus on comfort, speed (read efficiency) and warmth.  As always, these ideas may not work for everyone but with enough time in the mountains, you’ll come up with some of your own.

My first recommendation to anybody is always based on food and water. We all know that we need to eat and drink at every break even if we’re not be hungry. A simple trick is to store your food and water in the same place in your pack every time you climb so it’s easy to find at every break. Often times I’ll put a snack in my pants pocket or the pockets of my puffy jacket so they’re easy to access at the breaks, and a touch easier to eat since they won’t be as frozen as some of your other food buried in your pack.

Another simple trick is to keep some food and water near you at night, sip on water after you go to the bathroom (hint: don’t confuse your water bottle and pee bottle) and have a few snacks handy as well.  You may wake up in the middle of the night hungry; if you’re hungry – eat!  Keep your stuff sack and water next to your at night so you won’t bother your tent mate as you rummage through your pack that’s conveniently outside the tent.  Remember, bring your favorite foods, if you don’t like something at sea level, you won’t eat it up there. Swedish Fish!

And a big one for me; change those socks!  After you have rolled into camp, worked hard all day and dug in, take a minute and put on a fresh pair of dry socks.  We rely on those feet so it’s in our best interest to take care of them.  You will feel refreshed and a little lighter on your feet.  You can put the socks you have been wearing all day in you jacket near your core and they will dry out for the morning.  They might stink a little but at least you will be comfortable.

And lastly, stay warm in camp. It is much easier to stay warm than it is to get warm. Put that extra layer on when you get to camp.  Keep stokin that fire with food and water and stay dry.

It’s the simple things.

Greg Vernovage

November 9, 2011

Part 3 of our week long series “From A Guide’s Perspective”, IMG Guide Austin Shannon talks about a few simple ways to lighten up your overflowing backpack.

Lighten Up!
By Austin Shannon

Austin Shannon

Ok, ok, I know how much we all like to research and buy our climbing gear, but for some, the simple act of acquiring all of the necessary gear can be one of the more stressful parts of your trip.  Hopefully I can help you figure out a strategy on how to tackle this objective and, at the same time, lighten up that pack!

It seems obvious but the best advice is: buy it once, buy it right and buy it light!  With this in mind I’ll narrow what I’m shopping for down to a few similar items then I’ll check out the weight of each item. From there, I’ll do the math and see if those extra ounces are worth  weight and/or money. Keep in mind that some of the bells and whistles on a lot of the gear are exactly that, bells and whistles to help get it off the shelves and in your closet!  One adage we all live by in the mountains is: Ounces make pounds and pounds make pain!

Some helpful hints:

1. Make a list.  Before you start this process remember, “just in case” weighs a lot and adds up quick!  We are in the mountains to enjoy the adventure, not to be loaded down with crazy nicknacks that we don’t actually need.  Stick to the list and make adjustments based on seasonal demands and weather forecasts, not “just in case”.
2. Do more with less.  Don’t forget, your trip has an end.  Try to go with as little gear as possible.  Your body can survive on much less than you think.  You don’t need five different head layers.  Find gear and various layers that serve more than one purpose.  If something only has one job then don’t buy it.  For example,  puffy jackets  double as a pillows so that 4oz. inflatable pillow is 1/4lb you don’t need.  A long sleeve shirt can be turned into a short sleeve by simply pulling up your sleeves. You get the idea.
3. Keep it simple.  When shopping for gear,  it’s easy to get lost in the new latest &greatest features. Just remember, the more features it has means there are more things that can break and the more it likely weighs.  A simple example of this is in backpacks -  we don’t need a extra sleeping bag compartment. The external and internal zipper and the added fabric add unnecessary weight to the pack and add 2 more zippers that can fail.

Some of these suggestions may seem obvious but we are often our own worst enemies with what ends up in our packs.  My last bit of advice would be to make notes after each one of your climbs: what did i use a lot? what did i not use at all? Over time you will develop a tried and true system that works for you!

[For some Rainier Specific suggestions see How Can I Lighten May Pack]

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Up next for Austin:  Ski patrolling this winter at Crystal Mountain and heading to Aconcagua in February. 

November 8, 2011

Part 2 of our week long series “From A Guide’s Perspective”, IMG Guide Chris Meder describes a few things that can make or break a climb.

Daily Expectations & Your Process
By Chris Meder

Chris Meder

Mountaineering, like many challenging things we apply ourselves to in life, can bring some anxiety.  Not knowing what the route looks like, an uncertain weather forecast, and not being sure of our physical fitness can all contribute to an unproductive sense of nervousness.   As with most of these challenges, planning, preparation and knowledge can give you a hefty psychological advantage.  That’s why it’s good to have an idea of what you can expect day to day in the mountains.  Whether you’re just embarking on your mountaineering career with a first climb of Mt Rainier, or attempting a big peak in some remote location around the globe, the process of your day to day activities will be very similar.   Here are some things to get you started in developing a mental model of what to expect from a day in the mountains, just about anywhere.

At its most basic, your daily routine will look something like this.  Wake up reasonably early (dark and early for summit days), get dressed in clothing appropriate to the current weather, jumpstart the body with some breakfast, then attend to any camp chores before departing for the day.  Once you’re walking or climbing, your goal is to move as efficiently as possible, moving at a consistent pace.

You want to focus on taking care of yourself, conserving precious energy as you go.  This means stopping to eat and drink approximately every hour, even if you are not hungry.  You’re not eating to satisfy a current hunger, but rather to keep the fire going throughout the day so that the body continually has reserves to draw upon.  Stay ahead of the caloric and hydration curves.

Throughout the day, even while trying to move at a consistent pace, you will inevitably get hot or cold.  Thermal equilibrium in the mountains is a myth; it’s just something we need to accept and deal with.  The weather can change quickly, and the body’s heat output will do the same based on the terrain you’re traveling through, and how hard you’re working.  Be flexible and do your best to anticipate what layers to wear for each part of the day, given the current weather and your current temperature.   Your guide will help with this clothing selection, but spend some time at home becoming familiar with your layering system to aid in this process.  Eventually, you will come to know exactly what layers to wear for a particular part of the day.  No problem if you choose incorrectly, just make a mental note and adjust next time.  Your goal with all of this is to manage your body temperature effectively—not sweating profusely or shivering uncontrollably—which will in turn conserve energy.

IMG Camp On Bona (Photo by Mark Allen)

At the end of the traveling portion of the day, you’ll pull into camp.  It’s time to put on some warm clothes, probably that big puffy jacket you’ve been carrying.  Tasks you’ll want to attend to in the evening are establishing a solid camp (done as a group on IMG trips), drying out any wet clothes, and continuing to hydrate and eat.  After dinner and enjoying your surroundings for a bit, get to bed at a decent hour to rest up.  The more time you can spend lying down, the more opportunity the body has to recover.  Fortunately, this applies to a certain degree even if you are not sleeping.

So whether you’re on Mt Rainier or any other mountain in the world, this general daily process will be roughly the same.  Throughout the day, and over the course of any trip, you want to approach the climb as you would any long term goal.  The mind has knowledge of the final objective, but its best to break the journey down into discrete, manageable chunks.  On day one, it can be counterproductive to fixate on the summit.  It’s helpful if you take the climb one day at a time.  Focus on the immediate goal for the day.  You can gain an idea of the day’s itinerary from your guide or your research, but you need to remain flexible with that vision as the day’s plans often change in the mountain environment.  Executing that itinerary successfully, while taking care of yourself, is your goal for the day.  Take each day as it comes, and enjoy the process.  Before you know it, you’ve amassed a number of successful victories in the journey to the summit and back!

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Up next for Chris:  Vinson down in Antarctica later this week, his first trip onto the ice.

November 7, 2011

Part 1 of our week long series “From A Guide’s Perspective”, IMG Guide Jenni Fogle describes a few things that can make or break a climb.

Jenni Fogle

Success and Failure in the Mountains
By Jenni Fogle

I don’t think anyone sets out on a climb expecting to fail. Some may have doubts or apprehension, but most expect to make it to the top. As an IMG guide, I always tell people that my job is to provide them with a safe, enjoyable and successful climb. Success as I see it is not the same for everyone. For many (for most) success is getting to the summit, but this isn’t always the case. I’m often asked, “What can I do to improve my chances for success?” Here are my top five suggestions, in order of least to most importance.

5. Pack only what you need, and nothing that you don’t need. Read the website before you show up for your climb. The people with the lightest, most effective equipment and clothing are those who read and follow the information on the IMG website. If you have questions about gear, call the office. If you are hesitant to spend the money for exactly what you need, just remind yourself that you need to do everything you can to improve your chances of success. You’ve already invested time training and probably money on airfare; how disappointed would you be if you had to turn around on summit day because your hands were just too cold?

4. Train hard. Most people register for their climbs several months in advance. Take advantage of that time to prepare. Join a gym, hire a trainer, or  train with partners. Do whatever it takes to stay motivated. Read the information on the IMG website regarding suggested training programs. Stack the cards in your favor! Get fit and feel better about yourself!

3. Eat well and stay hydrated on the climb. Your body needs fuel and water. Bring foods that you like, but that aren’t too heavy. Fresh foods on the first day are a great idea. The more you eat on your first day, the lighter your load will be, and the better you’ll feel! Drink plenty of water and/or electrolytes.

2. Listen to your guides. Listen to your guides. Listen to your guides. Chances are we’ve spent a lot more time in the mountains than you have, and you can probably learn something from us. That’s why you hired us, right? Our job is to keep you safe and help you have a good time. Trust us; our success is yours.

1. Have a great attitude. To me, success is much more than just getting to the top of a mountain. I’ve climbed with people who didn’t get anywhere near the top of the mountain they  were on but still had the time of their lives! We see many first-time mountaineers at IMG, and climbing a mountain like Rainier is often the hardest thing they’ve ever done. One of the most difficult aspects is facing the unknown. Show up with a sense of adventure, and be ready to make the best of whatever the mountain gives you. A fellow climber once told me the reason he climbs is, “You can’t lie to the mountains. The mountain will show you the truth.” The truth may be that you didn’t train hard enough, you packed too much stuff, the avalanche danger is too high, you don’t have enough energy to continue, or maybe the stars align and you have a fantastic adventure all the way to the summit and down. The truth is it’s all up to you!

I look forward to seeing you on an IMG climb, and wish you success, whatever that means for you!