August 15, 2011

Pequeño Alpamayo summit ridge. (photo by Mark Ursino)

One summit down, two to go! Greg Vernovage reports by sat phone from Condoriri Base Camp that the team put their training to work yesterday with 100% success on Pequeño Alpamayo (17,482’). Greg said the weather and conditions for the climb were excellent and the team did a great job on the ascent and descent. After a good dinner and sleep back at Base Camp, the team descends today to meet the jeeps and will travel to the Huayna Potosi Base Camp.

So far so good!

Eric Simonson

August 12, 2011

Just got the sat phone call from Greg Vernovage and crew on the current Bolivia expedition.  The guys are already spoiled – weather probably couldn’t be better.  Everyone’s healthy and acclimating well.  That “prep” process continues tomorrow with a day of training and then it’s time to take a shot at summiting Piqueno Alpamayo.

We’ll take it.

Phil

August 11, 2011

The Team

Not really tough at all for our Bolivia team — we are acclimatizing great at Lake Titicaca and our climb of Sun Island could not have been a sweeter day.  A nice ferry ride and great acclimatization hike filled with views and laughter.  On top, we looked to the south and saw our next destinations of Pequeno Alpamayo, Huayna Potosi.

The mountains are reported to be in excellent climbing conditions.  Like I say on Everest, when the team starts to look at me with the stare of NEEDING to climb now, well, that is when I know they are feeling healthy, acclimatized and ready to go.

Off we go tomorrow, for two mountains in seven days (then back to La Paz before going to Illimani).

Greg Vernovage

August 10, 2011

There are not many places where you can acclimatize for high altitude climbing by going to the beach!  Lake Titicaca (12,506 feet / 3,812 meters) is that place.  Yesterday the team travelled to the resort town of Copacabana on the shore of the Lake, and today they took the ferry to the Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun).  In the Inca religion, the god of the sun was born on this island, and there are many Inca ruins in the area.

Tomorrow, the team head for Huayna Potosi, and the climbing begins!

Eric Simonson

August 9, 2011

(Note this was received late on August 8th)

After breakfast today,  it was time to stretch the legs with a tour of La Paz.  Flying in to this elevation can make some a little hesitant to get after it.  Not here, this team is on top of it.   We had a great walk today, not a cloud in the sky, all the time looking up at Illimani, towering above the city.  After a great lunch in the Witches Market we got some lessons on what symbols give you wealth and health and longevity, so we are getting up to speed on Bolivian culture.

This afternoon we wrapped up last minute details, finished packing, and got all ready to head out in the morning to the beach and Lake Titicaca.  I have a little surprise for the team on the way – I hope we can meet again the last remaining builder of the Ra II, who is a little over 80 now and he likes visitors.

How is the team doing? I think we were asked nicely to stop laughing so hard last night!  We are looking forward to a couple of ferry and boat rides tomorrow with an evening overlook of the town of Copacabana.  SORRY everyone, this is NOT the Copacabana which Barry Manilow is talking about, but what the hell, sing it anyhow!

Greg Vernovage

August 8, 2011

The entire team and their luggage have now arrived in La Paz, which is a great start!  Today we took care of a lot of chores.

El Alto, where we land, is over 13,000 feet and then we drop into La Paz at about 12,500.  The keys to success today are to not move to fast, stay hydrated and get familiar with our teammates.  This team is taking care of these things very well.  We walked to the local grocery store and stocked up on a few more snacks and water.

I met with a one of our Bolivian guides and went over logistics for the climb.  Last week, the mountain received a new layer of snow and the report is that all of our peaks are in great condition for climbing.

This afternoon was gear check time, it always goes a bit easier when all of the gear shows up.  Everyone is checked out and making two duffels, much like Everest, a trekking duffel and a Base Camp duffel.  It is pretty amazing how much Bolivia reminds me of the Himalaya.  The landing is much like if you fly into Lhasa.  The announcement comes on reminding you of your elevation and to not move to quickly.  Acclimatization is like anywhere, patience and taking care of yourself.

We will take a walking tour around the city of La Paz tomorrow, visiting the San Francisco Cathedral, the Witches Market, Old Town La Paz and end up on a sweet little overlook higher in the city with great views of Illimani.  La Paz is decorated with the brightest colors you can find.  Friday was the celebration of their independence; 186 years I am told.  Probably a good thing this team missed that party.

We ended the day with a great dinner a nice restaurant.  Trout is one of the great foods of Bolivia, it did not let us down.  Great dinner at La Comedie!

Greg Venovage

November 16, 2010

Off to Illimani I went.  After driving until the road ended, we got out of the car with everything we needed for the climb.  Illimani, which means Golden Eagle, was said to be a little dry at this time of year.  I wanted to check it out.  We loaded a few mules with the gear and hiked to base camp.  The Base Camp provided a great view of our objective as well as flat ground cut smooth by Llamas, mules, horses, sheep and pigs.  The running glacier stream was next to us as well. As the evening came in, we were given a great view of the lights of La Paz .

The next day we moved to High Camp, which was a good walk with some rock scrambling, leaving us plenty of time to hydrate, eat and check out the next nigh’ts climb.  Early the next morning we left the High camp,  walked for about 15 minutes to get on the glacier, then made our way through and around a number of cracks and ridges.  It was fun climbing and good route finding in the dry glacier conditions of the autumn.  Then, we came to the bergschrund, at about 6,000m.  Getting over it was not a problem, and the next two hours proved to be some of the best climbing I have done in Bolivia.  We made our way up through a mix of snow and ice. The reward was beautiful long summit ridge which gave great views of both sides of the Cordillera Real range.

At over 6,000m you are not moving too fast, so you might as well take in the views.  Arriving at the summit was fantastic.  We were well above the clouds and had amazing views of mountains like Huayna Potosi which you can see from the summit looking down the ridge.  It is a big summit with plenty of room to walk around a bit and take pictures.  In every direction there was a new photo.  I sat down next to Roberto, eating and drinking.  There are quite a few mountains to climb in this area called Illimani.  He told me that there are 5 peaks over 6,000 m.  The main “cumbre” (Summit) was where we sat, at 6,450 m (21,161 ft). One of the best climbing days!

Two 6,000 meter peaks in Bolivia and I’m ready for more. For now, though, how about some local celebration food and “A” beer before I head over to Ecuador.

Greg Vernovage

November 11, 2010

After acclimatizing at “sea level” (Lake Titicaca = 13,400 ft/4100m) I headed to one of the main goals of the trip, Huayna Potosi (19,974 ft/6088m).  It is a great looking mountain!  I arrived at Base Camp and set up in the refugio for the night.  A great dinner and good night sleep, we woke up and headed to the High Camp Refugio (16,730 ft/5100m).  Plenty of time to settle in and rest before an early morning start.  We woke up to a little snow and wind.  What a great climb!

A little about the route: summit day starts off with glacier travel.  A few steep rolls and into a gulley that resembles the Mount Whitney chute.  At the top of the chute, a fantastic summit ridge.  The day gave me a little snow and cloud cover but the summit ridge was unreal, with a 1000m drop-off down the west face.  The summit was well worth it.

Returning to La Paz on the same day, today!  I am looking forward to a good meal and great night sleep  After some rest, I’m off to Illimani.

Greg Vernovage

November 9, 2010

IMG guide Greg Vernovage reports that he had a nice visit to Copacabana on Lake Titicaca, with a ferry ride out to the Isla del Sol (Sun Island) and a hike to nearly 14000 ft. Today they headed up to Zongo Pass, where they hired some porters, and then hiked up to the Huayna Potosi Base Camp.  So far everything is going well. Tomorrow the plan is to head up to high camp and then to the and he will be heading up to (almost) 20,000 foot summit the next day!

Follow Greg’s SPOT progress here.

Eric Simonson

Huayna Potosi from Charquini, Bolivia

November 7, 2010

The shores of Lake Titicaca.

We sent IMG guide Greg Vernovage to Bolivia, on his way down to Ecuador (where he will be leading our November Ecuador climbs).  Greg is doing an on-site review of our Bolivia program with our outfitters in La Paz.   Right now, though, Greg is acclimatizing at a resort in Copacabana, on the shore of Lake Titicaca, right on the border with Peru.  Not a bad place to hang out waiting to build up those red blood cells!

This next week Greg will be taking a run up Huayna Potosi (20 miles N of La Paz)  and  Illimani (30 miles ESE of La Paz) with our Bolivian guides to check it out, with our goal being to restart the IMG  Bolivia program for 2011.  We’ll look forward to tracking Greg’s climbs on these beautiful and accessible 6000m peaks.

Eric Simonson

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Check out where some of our other climbs are via the SPOT Trackers they’re carrying. We’ve got Mark Allen on Ama Dablam along with George Dunn & Austin Shannon in Mexico.