August 23, 2011
Summit of Illimani
IMG guide Greg Vernovage reports by sat phone that the team is all down safe and sound back to the high camp. Greg said the weather was good today and they had a nice climb. Their plan is now to descend back to the Base Camp and then head back to La Paz tomorrow.
Eric Simonson
August 22, 2011
High Camp on Illimani. (Photo by Greg Vernovage)
IMG guide Greg Vernovage reports by sat phone that the team pulled into the 17,800 foot “Nido de Condores” high camp on Illimani. High camp is situated just below the glacier. It is a stiff hike to get up there, and today the team hired some porters to help carry the tents and gear, which was helpful, especially since there was some rocky scrambling in places.
The plan for tomorrow is to head out about 2am, wearing crampons, for a solid day of snow and ice climbing. Greg says the route looks to be in good shape and everyone is doing well. So far so good!
Follow their progress here via Greg’s SPOT Tracker.
Eric Simonson
August 21
Greg reports that after a good rest day yesterday in La Paz, today the group went back into the mountains, supported by some mules to haul their gear for their trek to Base Camp. The camp is in a beautiful grassy area at about 15,000 feet, mowed smooth by llamas, mules, horses, and sheep that graze in the area. There is a nice running stream nearby and in the evening the team will get a great view of La Paz night lights.
Eric Simonson
August 19, 2011
Mary and Alex being lowered from the summit of Pequeno Alpamayo. Full photo album available on IMG's Facebook page (click photo above). Give us the 'thumbs up' if you approve.
It has been a great trip to say the least, with two weeks of perfect weather and great climbing. We are now back in La Paz and we have all taken a well deserved shower. Our teammate, Alex, had to depart last night to get back to the United States and I know he was bummed, because he was ready to take on our next challenge, Illimani.
Our climbing and training for Illimani has been perfect. The technical challenges of Pequeno Alpamayo had the team work with both altitude and skills that we will need for Illimani. After that test, I assured the team that Huayna Potosi would be technically simpler. As we all know though, a bit more elevation can be challenging as well. 6,088 meters is equal to just under 20,000 feet. Bottom line, the team did great! As we get to the summit ridge, after climbing for 5+ hours, if you are a climber, you have to look over the edge. The first thing you should notice is Lake Titicaca in the distance. As you get more comfortable with your surroundings or lack there of, you look over the lip, down the West Face of Potosi, 3,000 feet down. Probably our sweetest day of climbing so far.
Back at Base Camp, we got a great dinner and good night sleep. Up early and on our way back to La Paz, the talk in the van circled around showers, a great dinner at a restaurant that Eduardo (one of our top notch Bolivian guides) wants to go to. The last topic of conversation on the way back to town was in front of us for the entire drive. ”Greg, That is one huge mountain. (Illimani) How are we going to climb it? Where are we going to go?” Illimani is 6,438m (21,122 ft) and I am looking forward to showing this team another piece of Bolivia.
A rest day tomorrow in La Paz, and we are ready to go!
Greg Vernovage
August 18, 2011
Greg Vernovage on the summit of Huayna Potosi
IMG guide Greg Vernovage reports that the climb went well today, with the entire group reaching the summit!
The route started from high camp with glacier travel, then some steep rolls, and finally a steep chute up to the ridge that leads to a fantastic summit (with a 3000 foot drop off down the west face at your feet!). The weather was good, and they had excellent views of Lake Titicaca, Illimani, and the surrounding peaks of the Condoriri group before heading back down to the high camp. Congrats to Greg, Alex, Mary, Derek, Bill, Ryoko, Viki, Deborah, and our Bolivian guides for a safe ascent and descent.
Greg says they left the high camp at 2:45am and reached the top at 8:00am, and were all back to the high camp by 11:45am. After a rest, some lunch, and getting packed up, they are heading on down this afternoon to the Base Camp. We’ll plan to hear from them tomorrow after they get back to La Paz.
Two down, one to go (Illimani)!!
Eric Simonson
August 17, 2011
IMG guide Greg Vernovage fired up his SPOT to show us where the team was, on their way to the high camp at the Casa Alta Roca hut (16,990 ft / 5,180m). They’ll be getting a pre-dawn start tonight, heading for the 19,974 ft / 6,094m summit of Huayna Potosi.
Eric Simonson
Huayna Potosi (courtesy of Google Earth)
August 16, 2011
Huayno Potosi from near Zongo Pass. (Photo by Ben Marshall)
IMG leader Greg Vernovage reports by sat phone that the team successfully moved from Condoriri Base Camp to the Huayna Potosi Base Camp and are now ensconced at the Casa Blanca Hut (about 15,500 feet). Today was an easy day, with some training, rest and reorganization, in preparation for the climb tomorrow up to the Campo de Rocas hut at almost 17,000 feet. The weather remains good and everyone is doing well.
Eric Simonson
August 15, 2011
Pequeño Alpamayo summit ridge. (photo by Mark Ursino)
One summit down, two to go! Greg Vernovage reports by sat phone from Condoriri Base Camp that the team put their training to work yesterday with 100% success on Pequeño Alpamayo (17,482’). Greg said the weather and conditions for the climb were excellent and the team did a great job on the ascent and descent. After a good dinner and sleep back at Base Camp, the team descends today to meet the jeeps and will travel to the Huayna Potosi Base Camp.
So far so good!
Eric Simonson
August 12, 2011
Just got the sat phone call from Greg Vernovage and crew on the current Bolivia expedition. The guys are already spoiled – weather probably couldn’t be better. Everyone’s healthy and acclimating well. That “prep” process continues tomorrow with a day of training and then it’s time to take a shot at summiting Piqueno Alpamayo.
We’ll take it.
Phil
August 11, 2011
The Team
Not really tough at all for our Bolivia team — we are acclimatizing great at Lake Titicaca and our climb of Sun Island could not have been a sweeter day. A nice ferry ride and great acclimatization hike filled with views and laughter. On top, we looked to the south and saw our next destinations of Pequeno Alpamayo, Huayna Potosi.
The mountains are reported to be in excellent climbing conditions. Like I say on Everest, when the team starts to look at me with the stare of NEEDING to climb now, well, that is when I know they are feeling healthy, acclimatized and ready to go.
Off we go tomorrow, for two mountains in seven days (then back to La Paz before going to Illimani).
Greg Vernovage