April 26, 2012

I spoke to IMG Guide Eben Reckord by sat phone and he reports that everything is going well.  Yesterday saw Eben, Thunang, and Phinjo pushing the route up to Camp 2, near the ridge crest.  It was exciting for them to finally gain the ridge crest, and see the route up the summit ridge in front of them!  Along the way to Camp 2, they fixed 400m of rope on some of the steeper parts of the route, and then descended back to Camp 1.  Today the Sherpas descended to BC and the members are all taking another acclimatization day at Camp 1 (17,500ft) before heading back down to Base Camp in the morning for some home cooking.  So far so good!

Eric Simonson

April 24, 2012

Annapurna 3, as seen from Annapurna 4 (Craig John)

IMG guide Emily Johnston called on the sat phone from Camp 1 (about 17,500ft) to report that the team were all tucked in, after a great day today.  The weather was perfect, and the team were treated to great views of Annapurna 2, 3, and Manaslu along the way.  They installed 400 meters of fixed rope, anchored to pitons and pickets, to protect the climb up to Camp 1 (which is above the rock buttress).  Everyone carried heavy packs, and they were able to move enough gear and supplies up with them to last for several days.

The plan for tomorrow is to start working the route up to the ridge crest, with the goal to place Camp 2 up near the junction with the summit ridge.  So far so good!

Eric Simonson

April 23, 2012

The buttress to Camp 1 and Camp 2 (Mingma Dorje Sherpa)

IMG guide Eben Reckord reports that IMG sherpas Phinjo and Thunang Bote finished fixing to Camp 1 today, while Eben, Emily, and the A4 team ferried loads to the bottom of the buttress.

Tomorrow, if the weather looks OK, they hope to all move up to Camp 1, leaving their cook Pasang Nuri and assistant Sante Tamang to hold down the fort at Base Camp while they are up on the hill.

Eben says everyone in the team is doing well, and getting well acclimatized.  They are ready to start climbing!

Eric Simonson

April 20, 2012

Annapurna 4 Base Camp. (Photo by Mingma Sherpa)

IMG Leader Eben Reckord reports that the team had an adventurous trip to A4 Base Camp (15,550 ft/4740m), accompainied by donkeys and porters.  Sounds like they had to practice their cowboy skills too, helping the local herders keep the critters going in the right direction!

The sherpa team already had the BC all set up for their arrival, and they were glad to finally get there.  The plan is to take a rest day tomorrow, then go for a hike the following day to recon the route to Camp 1.  Weather has been good and the snow that fell last week has been cooking, so the conditions are improving.

Eric Simonson

April 19, 2012

IMG Annapurna 4 team (David, Emily, Jarno, Joe, Eben) near Manang, with Annapurna 2 and 4 in the background (photo-Eben Reckord)

IMG guides Eben Reckord and Emily Johnston report from Humre that the A4 team is doing well:   ”For starters the weather is seeming to make a change for the better.  After five days of rain we have now had three days of sunshine in a row.  We’ve had a chance to dry our gear out and recharge our batteries.  On Tuesday the Sherpas made a trail to BC through lingering winter snow and yeterday the donkeys carried all the gear necessary for our expedition to Base Camp.  That’s great news for our team and a huge relief.  The team have been resting, training and acclimatizing in and around Humre and Manang. We received a blessing from the local lama and had time to enjoy a fine Italian Lattes made with frothed powdered milk in Manang.  Along with taking in the sights and building up our red blood cells, we have been getting our climbing systems dialed in.  The team continues to stay healthy and is looking forward to making our way to Base Camp.

Wish us luck!

Eben Reckord

April 17, 2012

Annapurna 2 and 4 from across the valley near Chulu Far East. The route to A4 Base Camp ascends the valley on the right, then climbs up to the left onto the prominent bench below the peaks. You can see the airstrip in the small town of Humre at the base of the mountains. (Photo: Mingma Sherpa)

IMG Leader Eben Reckord reports that the team is taking a rest day in Humre (11000 ft / 3350m) at the base of Annapurna 4.  This town is a great location for enjoying the views of the Chulu Peaks to the north, and the Annapurna peaks to the south. IMG Sherpas Phinjo and Pasang Tshering took a run up to Base Camp to survey the route.  They came back saying that there was several feet of fresh snow up there.  So, it will take a couple days to get everything up to the campsite.  In the meantime, the team is healthy and doing well with their acclimatization.

Eric Simonson

April 14, 2012

IMG guide Eben Reckord reports that the team’s first few days of trekking have gone well, and they are now in Bradang (2850m).  From Kathmandu the team drove west on the Pohkara road, a beautiful drive through central Nepal.  When they reached the Marsyangdi River Valley, they turned to the north, to Besisahar.  Then, from there, the road has been extended a bit further to Bulbule, which is now the trailhead.  Yesterday the team got a nice view of Manaslu.

Eben says:  “it has been raining a ton in the afternoons and evenings, but we’ve managed for the most part to stay dry and out of the rain.   There has been a  lot of movement on the trail with donkeys, sheep, brahma bulls, chickens, mongooses and monkeys.  Today is Nepali New Year, so there are a lot of local people traveling to visit friends and celebrate. At one point we had to get out of the way of a whole herd of goats that was being herded down the trail!  Work continues on the road up to Chame.  Two days back we were asked to stay put by two soldiers while dynamite blasts cleared more of the road across the valley.  Needless to say it’s been an exciting walk in so far.  We hope to get to Humre tomorrow and base camp in just a few days.  The team is all happy and healthy and ready to get climbing”.

Eric Simonson

April 11, 2012

IMG 2012 Annapurna 4 expedition team (L-R Joe, Emily, Eben, Miss Hawley, David, Jarno, Steve)

IMG leaders Eben Reckord and Emily Johnston report that the A4 team is now on their way to Besisahar.  Yesterday the team had the chance to meet Liz Hawley in person.  Liz is the original Himalayan historian. She has lived in Kathmandu and kept track of the climbers since 1960!

Nowadays it is normally her staff that interview the climbing teams, but Liz is always interested to meet, in-person, with teams going to adventurous places, and she was happy to see off the A4 climbers.  Liz told the team stories about Sir Edmund Hillary making it especially memorable for the team.

If you want the definitive record of Himalayan climbing, see her Himalayan Database.

Eric Simonson

April 9, 2012

Eben presenting the Annapurna IV permit

IMG guide Eben Reckord did the briefing today at the Ministry, and received the official permit for Annapurna 4.

The team members have all arrived now in Kathmandu, with their luggage, which is always a good way to start a trip.  The Base Camp cooks and porters have now left Kathmandu for the trailhead with 60 loads of tents, fuel, food and supplies to start getting BC set up ahead of the expedition.  So, everything is looking good and the team is looking forward to starting the trek.

Their route will take them by bus to Besisahar ( the start of the Annapurna Circuit) and then to Bulbule, where they begin 8 days of trekking to Base Camp.  They will follow the main Annapurna route as far the small town of Humre (just before Manang), where they go up a side valley, and climb to the site of the Base Camp.

Eric Simonson