November 30, 2010
Illiniza Norte & Sur
Greg called in to report that our Ecuador team stopped 400ft short of the summit of Illiniza Norte earlier today due to some significant lightning and thunder. All made it back to the refugio safely and will give it another shot tonight.
After Round 2 with Illiniza Norte is Illiniza Sur on Thursday.
Track their SPOT progress here.
Tye Chapman
November 30, 2010
Phil Ershler called in to the IMG office to report from Antarctica at 3:15pm PST (8:15 pm Antarctica time).
Not a bad view.
The Mt. Vinson expedition is off to a great start! All arrived in Punta Arenas on time and with their luggage. They had a busy day sorting and packing then flew onto the ice on November 27th on schedule. The team spent one night on the Union Glacier at Patriot Hills then flew to Vinson Base on the 28th. They carried to Camp I today (November 29) and weather permitting will move up to Camp 1 tomorrow. The weather currently is very good and the entire team is healthy and happy. Phil will try to call in more regularly as he is able and as the team progresses up the mountain.
As reported by George Dunn from the IMG office.
November 29, 2010
Guide Greg Vernovage reports the entire team is safely back in Quito after their attempt on Cayambe. Here is his report:
“Back in Quito. Cayambe was a tough go. We had to get dropped off well below the hut …. We got the 4X4 to help out shuttling people. Rain and snow on the way up to the hut.
A good night sleep by everyone. We did some training and a short hike up the rocks outside of the Refugio to get a look at the route.
What I noticed was how warm it was. After all the precipitation we had combined with the warmth I thought there might be some potential for slides higher up. We heard that there was a slide higher on the mountain that afternoon.
Woke up at 11pm and walked by 12:15. Weaved our way up the rocks and across some mellow terrain. Crampons on and roped up. About 30 minutes later, arrived at the avalanche path. Looked to be a wet slide. Good size path and firm. It was a very warm night. Walked about 10 minutes on the path, same as the climbing route…. Romulo and I stopped and talked about where the Avalanche might have originated and if there could be more (hazard) up higher.”
[The guides estimated the avalanche path to be 400 meters wide and 600 meters long, and were concerned about the additional potential for slides. They made the right call in deciding to turn the group back at this point. GD]
“We returned to the hut and caught a nap. Woke up at 8:30 to wind and a lot of snow blowing in. Got our gear together and loaded it into the 4X4 and made our way down.
More rain in the afternoon which is a pattern. Arrived at the Hotel in Quito. Everyone is happy and resting today.”
Some members are on their way home after the end of the normal program. There is continued concern about new snowfall in the mountains, and how it would affect the upcoming climb of Chimborazo. As a result, the remaining members have decided on an alternate plan proposed by the guides. Instead of attempting Chimborazo, they will attempt a climb of neighboring Iliniza Norte and Iliniza Sur over the next two days.
As reported to George Dunn in the office by trip leader Greg Vernovage.
Iliniza Norte and Illiniza Sur from Cotapaxi
November 28, 2010
Cotopaxi.
While we were feeding our faces with Thanksgiving dinner and then again with the leftovers the following weekend, our team in Ecuador has been working hard!
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On Thanksgiving day the team left the refugio on Cotopaxi on a great summit day but as Greg said his “mountain senses” were tingling so they dug a snow pit to confirm what they were feeling. Sure enough they found faceted granules about 25-30 inches down on a layer of ice. This made turning around at 17,929ft a little easier…painful nonetheless. Not defeated, the team went horseback riding that afternoon then enjoyed a nice Thanksgiving dinner of their own.
They awoke at their hacienda to some light rain. Next up was Cayambe. As the rain turned to snow near the hut it became clear that the 4×4 jeeps were not going to be able to make it all the way to the hut – what’s a little load carrying amongst friends right? Summit night brought more and more snow with limited to no visibility so climbing Cayambe just wasn’t in the cards.
Good decisions behind them, they’re on their way back to Quito today so a couple team members can head back home on some scheduled flights while some others are stick around for the extension and possibly a climb of Chimborazo or an alternate mountain should Chimbo be unclimbable at the moment.
That’s all for now…
Tye Chapman
November 23, 2010
Which way to Cotopaxi?
Greg reports that all is well in Ecuador. The team had a nice training day yesterday near the refugio on Cotopaxi. After a few solid hours of training (and acclimatizing) they dropped some gear at the hut before heading back down to Tierra del Volcan where they stayed for a second night.
They’re heading back up to the refugio today with hopes of climbing tonight. The weather is still a little questionable so they’ve brought along an extra day of food in case they have to wait out a little weather tonight.
Everybody is doing just fine, a few headaches but that’s normal for this altitude.
We’ll know more tomorrow, but until then you can track their progress when they start climbing here.
Tye Chapman
November 22, 2010
Landing at Vinson base camp.
It must be about Thanksgiving time because I’m heading to Antarctica. That seems to be a holiday tradition for me. IMG Senior Guide, Aaron Mainer, and I leave for Punta Arenas, Chile early Tuesday. We’ll meet our team on Thanksgiving day and finish packing for our flight to Antarctica. 8 climbers are joining us on this expedition. Early season is my favorite. The mountain is fresh and fewer folks are there. Downside is that it’s a bit chilly. Heck, it’s Antarctica, what did we expect?
I’ll try to keep folks at home posted on our progress. All is done via satellite phone. Once we’re on the ice we’ll need 6 or 7 days of reasonable weather to get up and down the thing. We’ll keep you posted. Oh, have some turkey for us.
Phil Ershler
November 22, 2010
It’s been a busy few days for Greg Vernovage and our Ecuador team. Still wet but all is moving forward. Here’s what Greg had to say about their adventures over the last few days.
Follow the teams SPOT progress here.
Phil Ershler
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After meeting with our Ecuadorian partner, Romulo Cardenas, and walking through Old Town Quito on Friday, we set out for Otavalo. En route we met with long time IMG friend, Jose Cotacache, who was in the middle of weaving a great Ecuadorian wall hanging. A little bargaining later and we all set off with scarfs, blankets and other locally handcrafted souvenirs.
Once in Otavalo, Romulo took us to an old Hacienda where we enjoyed a great dinner. The following morning was spent explaining to the locals why we did NOT want to buy any livestock. After the farmers market, the team set off on their own to explore, eventually finding their way back to Hotel Otavalo through the Indian market. Otavalo behind us, we arrived back to Quito in the early afternoon and then the rain came down.
On Sunday we packed up and hit the road for an amazing breakfast at La Matilde, followed by our acclimatization hike of Pasochoa which was wet start to finish with hail on top. It has been raining more or less for the last 8 days here. We will see what that means for the mountains.
Oh yeah, on the way to Otavalo, we crossed the equator. Where we stopped to take it all in, well, that is the IMG secret. All I will say, nice find Phil and Romulo!
Off now to Hacienda Tierra del Volcan for showers, a good meal and some serious siesta. Cotopaxi awaits.
Greg Vernovage
November 19, 2010
Guides have arrived, team has arrived and all the luggage has arrived. It’s time to get this party started! Today, the group get to see a bit of Quito and learn about the culture. Heading to Otavalo this afternoon and a chance to shop for some of the wide assortment of nice quality Ecuadorian folk art. Plus, they simply need some time to acclimate. In Quito, they’re already at 9,000 ft. No matter how fit, you can’t rush acclimatization.
Guides for this program are IMG Senior Guide, Greg Vernovage, and my great friend and Ecuadorian partner, Romulo Cardenas. Romulo reports that it’s been raining the last few days. Good for the snow coverage in the mountains but it can stop any time now.
Phil Ershler
November 18, 2010
Outdoor Research Zip Sacks
When you’re on the trail how do you carry the food for your trip?
Is it in a ripped-up, ultra-thin plastic grocery bag? Or in a stuff sack that forces that item you’re really looking for all the way to the bottom so you can never quite get your hands on it?
Either way the Outdoor Research Zip Sacks will make snacktime on the trail a little more efficient. The horizontal zipper allows you to open it up and see what’s inside so you can get to that leftover slice of pizza you’ve been craving for over 2 hours now.
Guide Tip: Get a Medium for the bulk of the food for your trip and a Small for your daily rations .
If your food system is dialed think about one (or two) of these for all those miscellaneous items (spare socks, dry gloves, headlamp, compass, blister kit, lighter, etc.) that are always floating around the lid of your pack.
SPECS
Small: 8 inx 5 x 4 (244 cu. in. or 4 liters) 1.3oz.
Medium: 10in x 6 x 5 (427 cu. in. or 7 liters) 1.4oz.
November 16, 2010
Off to Illimani I went. After driving until the road ended, we got out of the car with everything we needed for the climb. Illimani, which means Golden Eagle, was said to be a little dry at this time of year. I wanted to check it out. We loaded a few mules with the gear and hiked to base camp. The Base Camp provided a great view of our objective as well as flat ground cut smooth by Llamas, mules, horses, sheep and pigs. The running glacier stream was next to us as well. As the evening came in, we were given a great view of the lights of La Paz .
The next day we moved to High Camp, which was a good walk with some rock scrambling, leaving us plenty of time to hydrate, eat and check out the next nigh’ts climb. Early the next morning we left the High camp, walked for about 15 minutes to get on the glacier, then made our way through and around a number of cracks and ridges. It was fun climbing and good route finding in the dry glacier conditions of the autumn. Then, we came to the bergschrund, at about 6,000m. Getting over it was not a problem, and the next two hours proved to be some of the best climbing I have done in Bolivia. We made our way up through a mix of snow and ice. The reward was beautiful long summit ridge which gave great views of both sides of the Cordillera Real range.
At over 6,000m you are not moving too fast, so you might as well take in the views. Arriving at the summit was fantastic. We were well above the clouds and had amazing views of mountains like Huayna Potosi which you can see from the summit looking down the ridge. It is a big summit with plenty of room to walk around a bit and take pictures. In every direction there was a new photo. I sat down next to Roberto, eating and drinking. There are quite a few mountains to climb in this area called Illimani. He told me that there are 5 peaks over 6,000 m. The main “cumbre” (Summit) was where we sat, at 6,450 m (21,161 ft). One of the best climbing days!
Two 6,000 meter peaks in Bolivia and I’m ready for more. For now, though, how about some local celebration food and “A” beer before I head over to Ecuador.
Greg Vernovage