International Mountain Guides Climbing and Mountaineering Expeditions

Ouray Veteran's Seminar

Ouray Ice Climbing Festival, Colorado

Ouray Veteran's Seminar with International Mountain Guides

IMG Ouray Veteran's Seminar Gear List

This equipment list is meant to help you compile your personal gear for a mountaineering expedition. Most items are required. Please consider each item carefully and be sure you understand the function of each piece of equipment before you substitute or delete items. Keep in mind that this list has been carefully compiled by George Dunn, the expedition organizer. Don't cut corners on the quality of your gear.

[  ] Boots: Rigid lug-sole climbing boots. You boot must have a welt that accepts a clip-on crampon. Modern insulated leather or synthetic climbing boots are much lighter and more precise for ice climbing than plastic double boots. Either is acceptable for the course.
[  ] Socks: Two changes of heavy wool or synthetic
[  ] Gaiters: short boot top gaiters are more flexible, but traditional knee high gaiters will work fine
[  ] Longjohns: Synthetic tops and bottoms
[  ] Soft Shell Pants: Any of the new climbing pants made from Schoeller brand fabric or similar stretchy, dense weave, durable synthetic fabric ( like the Outdoor Research Exos or Cirque pant).
[  ] Shell Pants: Breathable/waterproof with full zips to go on over boots
[  ] Shirt: Expedition weight synthetic long john top
[  ] Soft Shell Jacket
[  ] Shell Jacket: Breathable/waterproof jacket with hood. Lightweight and slim in fit is best for ice climbing.
[  ] Warm Parka: Down or synthetic filled, but does not need to be expedition weight. A down sweater is fine. We do a lot of standing around belaying and watching, so an insulated layer is essential.
[  ] Hat: Wool or fleece with a neck gaiter or a balaclava. Pick a hat that fits well under your helmet.
[  ] Gloves: Bring minimum 2 pair, at least one good Gore-Tex shell glove. Something with a good grip. Several pair of glove liners are helpful for changing between climbs. You may need to trade off your gloves each day, leaving one pair back at the hotel to dry completely. A good all around glove is the Outdoor Research Extravert. Simple, dexterous, warm.
[  ] Mittens: Liners with an overshell and a good grip. These are backups only, or for those with extra cold hands. Most ice climbers prefer to use gloves if at all possible.
[  ] Helmet: A good fitting UIAA approved climbing helmet.
[  ] Ice Tools: Two 45 to 50 cm. technical ice tools.
  • Recommended manufacturers include Petzl, Black Diamond and Grivel
  • Search the internet; you can often come up with good deals on last year's models and other bargains. If you just buy one tool, get a hammer head, not an adze. Many ice climbers have hammer heads on both of their tools. No adze to bonk yourself in the forehead with.
  • Leashless tools are the new rage, and for good reason. Best adapted for mixed and steeper climbing, leashless tools open up a whole new set of options for the modern ice climber.
  • Stumped on what to buy? It is probably best to rent tools and technical crampons your first time out. Try out as many types of tools as you can and see what works best for you before you buy.
[  ] Crampons: Rigid or semi-rigid are preferred, hand filed sharp. Recommended brands include Petzl, Black Diamond and Grivel. More and more climbers are choosing monopoints for serious ice climbing and mixed climbing. The single front point allows you to pivot your foot more and places well in narrow cracks. Just make sure your crampon has aggressive secondary points close to the front monopoint for softer or rotten ice conditions. Monopoint is the way to go for technical ice and mixed climbing, dual points still work best for general alpine climbing and in softer ice.
[  ] Prussik Slings: Bring two pretied 6mm. prussik loops. Construct each prussik out of 4.5 feet of 6mm Perlon accessory cord tied with a double fisherman's knot. One or two sewn 24" webbing runners may also be useful.
[  ] Seat Harness: Adjustable leg loops, a belay loop and gear loops are all helpful.
[  ] Carabiners: Two locking pear shaped biners and two non-locking, minimum.
[  ] Belay Device: Petzl Reverso 3 or GriGri, Black Diamond ATC XP or ATC Guide or any of the comparable devices.
[  ] Sun Glasses: Good shatter resistant, wrap around sunglasses that provide eye protection and minimize fogging.
[  ] Suncream and Lipbalm
[  ] Water Bottle: One quart, wide mouth plastic bottle with insulating cover. A thermos is an excellent option.
[  ] Pack: Good sized daypack to carry spare clothes, food and tools for the day.
[  ] First Aid Kit: Each individual should carry a small kit to meet their personal needs. Recommendations include: Aspirin or Tylenol, Ibuprofen, Band-Aids, Steri-Strips,1 or 2 4X4 gauze pads, athletic tape, moleskin and any necessary personal prescription drugs.

[  ] Ice screws
[  ] Sewn webbing runners
[  ] 15-20 feet of 7mm. cord for linking anchors or constructing prussiks
[  ] Camera and film
[  ] Swimsuit for the hot tub
[  ] Disposable glove warmers, for those with cold-sensitive fingers

Note: If you do not own ice tools or rigid crampons and do not wish to purchase them, rental tools and rigid crampons are available for an additional fee. Make your request early, as supplies are limited.

Item:2 Days3 Days5 DaysPer add'l day
One Ice Climbing Tool$10$15$25$5
Two Ice Climbing Tools$20$30$50$10
Technical Crampons$10$15$25$5
IMG ice climbing in Ouray, Colorado
Recommended Gear

Confused by what exactly we mean on some of the listed gear, or wondering which brands might be better? See the IMG Recommended Gear Page »

Then browse the IMG Online Gear Store for our favorite climbing and trekking gear, as well as used rental gear, logo t-shirts, and more.

If you can't find what you need in our store, IMG is proud to feature our partnership with Mountain Gear, and we recommend them for your equipment requirements. IMG climbers get 5% off when they click through here to access Mountain Gear's Online Store or call 800-829-2009 and use code: 0IMG (zeroIMG)

Just got back from Ouray and had a great time, even better than last year, and I didn't think that was possible! We expected it to be a fun trip, but I do believe that IMG has once again out done itself.
~Stacey R.
I participated in George Dunn's ice climbing seminar. The instruction from the guides was superb. Their encouragement and positive reinforcement at every step of the way, made for a pleasant and rewarding experience...
~Gordon R.
The Ice Climbing Seminar is out of control. You stay in a hotel all week and the ice park is just a couple minutes away. Jake Norton, and Jeff Ward, two of George's assistant guides are great. They are very good teachers. It's amazing how fast everyone picked up the ice climbing skills. Our skills and confidence improved every day. At the end of each day we'd hit the outdoor hot tub, drink a few beers, and talk about our adventures of the day. Our group pushed each other to do better every day, and we did...
~Bruce G.
Everything was great, and we had a ball. I can't wait to climb with IMG again; I have enjoyed every minute of it. Thanks again for everything...
~Nicholas S.
IMG ice climbing in Ouray, Colorado
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