Shishapangma Expedition with International Mountain Guides

Thanks for your interest in our Shishapangma Expedition. Shishpangma is the 14th highest mountain in the world (8013m) and is the only 8000 meter peak entirely in Tibet.

Our successful autumn 2011 Shishapangma climb was the 4th expedition to Shishapangma that we have organized (in addition to 22 expeditions conducted to nearby Cho Oyu.) The 2012 expedition will again be led by IMG senior guide Mike Hamill under the direction of Eric Simonson. IMG was one of the very first 8000m Himalayan operators to run Tibet trips. We take great pride in running the best possible programs. We have done well over 40 Himalayan expeditions to 8000m peaks in Nepal and Tibet, and we have a pretty good idea of what works on these climbs and what doesn't.

The IMG 2012 Shishapangma expedition is designed for experienced high altitude climbers who want the leadership and infrastructure of our renowned Himalayan programs but want to work towards increased independence and participation. Clients are expected to be involved in all aspects of the climb. Previous high altitude Himalayan climbing or a strong resume of alpine ascents accompanied by moderate altitude climbs is required for this program. If you are a first timer to 8000m peaks, Cho Oyu would be a better choice for you.

Climbing Shishapangma is a great opportunity to escape the crowds of the busier mountains like Mt. Everest and Cho Oyu while challenging one's self on an 8000m peak. This is a beautiful climb that sees only a fraction of the traffic of Cho Oyu just to the South-east. It is the only 8000m peak completely within China and towers above the Tibetan plateau. Although Shishapangma lies in a remote area it's within 10 hours by jeep from Kathmandu via the Friendship Bridge, making it one of the most accessible 8000m mountains.

Please contact me  (This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need javascript enabled to view it )  if you have further questions or would like to discuss different options. We can put together a package for you that meets your requirements.

I'll look forward to hearing from you.

—Eric Simonson, IMG Himalayan Program Director

The Route

The route on Shishapangma starts with a jeep ride from Nyalam town to the spectacular Base Camp (5000m; 16,400'). From BC we have yak support to ABC (5400m; 17,700'). The climb to Camp 1 (6200m; 20,300') and to Camp 2 (6700m; 21,900') is straightforward glacier travel. From C2 the route steepens as it climbs a rocky gulley leading to Camp 3 (7400m; 24,200'). From C3 the summit ridge gets steeper, up to 60 degrees, but it is direct and leads right to the Central Summit (8007m; 26,262'). The route between the Central Summit and the Main Summit (8,013m; 26,289') , is quite difficult and requires traversing a sharp ridge crest. If the conditions are acceptable, we will try to go to the Main Summit.

Oxygen

The Shishapangma and Cho Oyu ascents can be attempted with or without oxygen, depending on the climbers experience and strength at altitude, with final approval from the expedition leader. Regardless, oxygen will be placed at high camp for all climbers, and no refund will be provided if it is not used. For climbers considering going no O2, please contact us to determine if it's the right choice.

Climb two 8000m peaks in one season

The Shishapangma expedition provides a perfect opportunity to ascend two 8000m peaks in one season due to its proximity to Cho Oyu and IMG infrastructure in place on both mountains. The Chinese offer a modest discount on fees for climbers attempting more than one 8000m peak in a season, but the permit will have to be finalized well before the first expedition, so no reimbursement will be given to should climbers not make an attempt on Cho Oyu. For climbers considering both peaks, please contact us to determine if it's the right choice.